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rico.29

how to replace the remote switch trim, yamaha.

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Hello every body,

recently the trim remote switch (the one place on the handle) broke down

[img=

, so i wanted to replace this little switch and went to my retailer.

when he told me the price for a new one, i almost colapse: 75 euros (i live in France) about 90 USD for such a little piece.

so i wanted to buy another switch for much less money .

i think a three position switch DPDT would do the job if i can place it on the handle, i was thinking about that kind of switch:

http://www.stripersonline.com/image/id/2548331/width/300/height/235]

or this one:

[img=

or

http://www.stripersonline.com/image/id/2548333/width/600/height/600]

before to do it myself, i was wondering if a member of this forum has ever used that kind of switch to replace the original switch,

thanks for your help.

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I have the Yami 703 control and it would not be possible to interchange those switches without it looking like hell. The mountings are completely different. If it was the remote trim switch you could do it but not the switch on the throttle.

 

Those switches are available for 38 euros. Do a search on Yamaha 703-82563-01-00

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I have the Yami 703 control and it would not be possible to interchange those switches without it looking like hell. The mountings are completely different. If it was the remote trim switch you could do it but not the switch on the throttle.

Those switches are available for 38 euros. Do a search on Yamaha 703-82563-01-00

 

thanks for your help,

the price is seriously goind down, but i think, before to buy one, that i will give a try to a chead (1 USD) switch, it may not fit the throttle, but i think i can secure it with silicone or a heavy paste.

why such a brand as yamaha is practicing incredible price, are the yamaha switch also sold to the NASA?

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Rico,

 

I certainly sympathize with you. If you are able to fabricate something that works using a decent switch, I'd get an extra one in case the manufacturer changes the design.

 

Wiring harnesses are a main sore point with me - especially the ones, like Yamaha, that do not use tinned wire for salt water applications and which rely on one or two fuses to run every accessory on the boat and which are not accessable.

 

In fact, I think I'll put a couple photos up of what I did with my wiring when I re-powered my little Mako CC. It is now very easy to add, change, by pass, and troubleshoot electrical devices.

 

Good luck.

 

Cheers,

Jim

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Often, that switch gets gummed up inside. It can be taken apart and cleaned. If your issue was that it worked sometimes, not always, or it worked in one direction only, it may just be dirty inside.

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These switches get corrosion that can be cleaned usually. They are not very complicated. I would try that before buying a new one. All Yamaha parts are way too expensive. Wait till you need to replace on of the display dials. Sit down before you look AT THE PRICES. JP

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as the trim didn't work, i, first of all, took the switch appart, here it is:

450

 

you can see that the pin is in a bad shape,

once again, 90 usd for such a switch...

i have found water proof switch for about 8 €, just have to found the one that would fit the handle.

what do you think of this switch?:

 

SeaDog Illuminating Contura Switch Marine 420213-1

Stamped brass/injection molded nylon and polycarbonate.

 

13/16" x 1 7/16". SPDT circuit.

 

Rated for 20 AMPS @12 volts.

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in fact i was thinking about change the place of the switch, instead of being in the handle i would place it on the board in front of me, i just have to bring the trim switch electrical "cablage" to the board,

i guess i need a 12V button, don't i?

how many ampere?

thanks.

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Rico,

 

If you have some wire around of known wire size you can match it to the original wire going to the switch (after you strip off the plastic covering). You can then work out the switch requirements backwards by charts on the internet. So if your wire, for instance, is #18 AWG and is 30 feet long, you can figure out it's max amp rating @ 12 volts off amp charts on the internet. Then just choose a switch rated for that (or a higher) load.

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