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muskyslayer96

Spook FRUSTRATION! Help requested

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I hope someone will rescue my spook building as I'm not sure where to go next.

I spent a lot of time over Thanksgiving break reading all the past posts here regarding spook building, Jig mans post was especially helpful.

I cut some blanks and weighted them and the sat in the water level about where I wanted them (I thought), approx. 10-15 degrees tail down. I don't have a current pic, but I cut the blank the same specs as my swimmers (pic attached) 6 inches long, cut from pine, 1/2 oz wieght 2inches in from the tail, the hook position is the same as the pic and I tried both line tie centered and below the center line. I used 5/0 trebles, weight total 2 3/8 oz.

It sits in the water nicely, but on the jerk it won't glide, it just bounces. I'm looking for a nice, wide surface glide. Did I weight it too much and that is why it keeps bouncing? I didn't drill out the lead yet (forgot the drill) it's in the low thirties today and testing was brutal with 25 plus MPH winds, so back to the shop frustrated.

How should I break down the next step? Drill the weight out and see if less weight will be better? Should I move the towards the head more?

Here is a pic of the lure shape and body style.

 

Thanks in advance guys for any pointers,

 

MS

450

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Have you tried a different rod? The rod I use everyday for plugging has a softer tip section, for 5 or 6 inch spooks I can work them fine, I made some bigger ones (7 inch) and I can't make them work as well especially at a distance.

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Sounds to me like you need to move the weight towards the nose a little. Too bouncy means the weight is too far back. Should only need one weight in a spook. The other alternative is to use a little denser wood.

 

Jigman

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I hope someone will rescue my spook building as I'm not sure where to go next......

and testing was brutal with 25 plus MPH winds,.....

quote]

Hi MS,

Sorry to ask an obvious question but are you sure you gave the spook a fair test? A real 25 mph plus wind is going to be hard to fish a spook in. I find getting the vital controlled amounts of slack after every tap tricky if its really windy especially when retrieving across the wind with a big wave. Retrieving straight into the wind, or down wind is easier. Do you think a commercial spook like a jackpot would have coped ok?

Cheers - Lurch

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The secret to making a bait that will glide is using lots of smaller weights along the bottom. This will allow you to fine tune the action and get good casting distance. The best way to do it is at a pool. Start with a ciopulevweights near the butt and keep adding them till it glides how you like

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I hear several different methods and theories which goes to prove.....to each his own. I make a spook that is 4 1/4 inches long, made from AYC and it has a tail weight and a chin weight....it sits at rest like a pencil popper but when retrieved properly (and quite easily I might add) it walks the dog and glides just as easy as you please and the fish climb over each other to get it! Heavy wood, light wood, more lead, less lead, no lead forward, bigger, smaller.......it simply comes down to finding the proper balance between all these things and the solution to the equation you seek comes when you find exactly the action that you desire from the plug that you are building. Trail and error......build several variations and try them all and keep a note book detailing how each version works and what corrections you might make! Good luck!

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+1 on the one weight as Jig suggested.

 

The only time I vary from this is when I use rattle chambers as my weight, and in that case I have 2 chambers splitting the difference at 1/3 from the rear. (Chamber weight comes from epoxy putty + metal thumbtack heads for resonation + stainless slingshot bearings).

 

Aim for 15-20 degrees angle in the water with the chin and line tie above the waterline. As suggested there are many ways to do it, these are just the ones that work for me.

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ms, hi. i dont know if you are trying to salvage that particular plug but i would try a heavier wood. personally i do not weight any of my spooks, even 6 inch. i use oak, maple even walnut for the weight. if i did however, i would keep the weight just behind the belly hook only, that is the pivot point of the motion. hope this helped. twjconfused.gif


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How can all guys forget to leave out treble Placement ;) to far back your spook will bob like a pencil Popper. Now if you have your treble to forward and have a lot of weight the thing could dive under water especially trying to walk it through current.

 

MS96 - My guess is you have way to much lead and the treble hooks might be way to big. Try using a Siwash hook on the tail, Would make it a lot easier for that tail to swing around.

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I've used this methods as well on some bigger Spooks. I call it the Teeter Totter method :D works good for bigger spooks that you want to have a lot of weight in the tail to cast far but also sit level. Having to much lead in the tail

does make a spook with a snappy tail when working it but you have to work it continuously or the Tail will sink and it won't glide as far side to side. The perfect action I like on my spooks is for it to sit level and swing 90 degrees

so it can glide farther to the side. Getting them to do that sometimes takes a lot of trial and error. Are my hooks way to forward, are they way to back, Do I want weight in the belly, do I want it in the tail, etc etc.. The bigger they get the harder it is to make then work that way.

 

 

[img=

 

http://www.stripersonline.com/image/id/2515706/width/500/height/374]

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I'm a noob to building but, i too, also use pine and I've made 6" spooks without any weight at all and they work well. This has happened on accident too. Just wanting to finish the plug and forgot about weighting it. But just remember, if you do weight the chin, not too much, you don't want the nose diving on ya either.

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