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DaveCap

Baseboard heat. Copper/PEX?

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I just mounted a couple of lengths of 3/4" copper baseboard in one of the rooms in my basement.

I have to finish the tie in to the furnace. Any pros/cons on using PEX ? I'm considering it for ease of routing. If I can, are the shark bit connectors ok to link the copper to PEX?

Thanks in advance

DC

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Not far. I have to go verticle about 7 feet and then about 12 feet across, pependicular to the joists which is why I'm thinking of it. If I run copper I'll have to stay below the joists. With the PEX I figure I can drill the holes and feed it through. Am I thinking this out correctly? How about those shark bite connectors?

And thank you.

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How big is this loop? You can only run so far with pex before you have flow problems. I normally use 5/8" inside diameter or 3/4" OD to go along with a standard 3/4" Baseboard. I can run safely 300' before I have flow problems. If you have an old gravity system with over-sized black iron piping and large radiators and you try to introduce pex into the system? You will have flow problems. If you try to add a new zone with heat pex to an old gravity system and large volume radiators you may have a flow problem.

 

If you use Pex in a heating system make sure it has an "Oxygen Barrier". Standard Pex for domestic water should not be used in a heating system. Without the Oxy Barrier you will rot out your boiler and other controls prematurely.

 

SharkBite fittings by Cash Acme are approved for hydronic heating up to 200 degrees. I would recommend to solder the Pex transition fitting to 3/4 copper as opposed to slip on "No Solder" fittings by Sharkbite. Expansion and contraction can be an issue over time and lead to leaks. I would leave all pex fittings ready accessible and not buried in a wall. Keep all Pex minimum 3' from any heat direct heat source and metallic flues/ draft hoods.

 

Run hangers every 18" on the horizontal 48" on the vertical..

 

 

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I have used the shark bite connectors on PEX and copper, they work fine though I get queasy about hiding then in walls and ceilings.. They are expensive, and you may still have to do some copper at the radiator and to the manifold.

 

:v:

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Notch the bottom of the joists and use copper.

 

Never notch the bottom of a joist!

 

Since the bottom 1/3 of the joist is in tension, when you notch, you seriously de-rate it's load carrying ability.

 

:v:

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Never notch the bottom of a joist!

Since the bottom 1/3 of the joist is in tension, when you notch, you seriously de-rate it's load carrying ability.

:v:

 

OK then, for get that! :D

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