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gray gables

Chainsaw chains?

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my neighbor and I have some massive oak to cut, almost 3.5 ft across at the bottom, the shop that is local to me doesn't sell anything but anti kick back chains, nothing wrong with that, I'm just looking for something more aggressive than those so I can rip right thru them, I have a 20" stihl, he has a 20" echo, why he bought that I'll never know, cheap I guess, and that's after running a stihl for 20 years,

 

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An Echo is not cheap and as good a saw out there. My neighbor is a professional logger, he only runs Echo saws. You want to run a chisel chain not the stock chains. Do a search and you will find them. Make sure your rakers are at the correct depth or a bit deeper for good performance.



 



Good Luck



 



Dan


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I have an Echo CS600P , believe me it's not a cheap saw and they come with a real chain on them.

 

I also have an Echo CS2600 for light work.

 

I have owned most of the major brands, Stihl, MCCulloch, Homelight ,Jonsered, and Husky and I like the Echo's the best.

They are reliable and easy to service.

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my neighbor and I have some massive oak to cut, almost 3.5 ft across at the bottom, the shop that is local to me doesn't sell anything but anti kick back chains, nothing wrong with that, I'm just looking for something more aggressive than those so I can rip right thru them, I have a 20" stihl, he has a 20" echo, why he bought that I'll never know, cheap I guess, and that's after running a stihl for 20 years,

 

really? a stihl dealer that DOESN'T carry yellow dot chains? and in NH for that matter? :shock:

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You can make any chain more aggressive by trimming the rakers as they determine the depth of cut. I trim them every other sharpening because the tapered tooth design of the chain causes the amount the tooth stands proud of the rakers to decrease with every sharpening and you'll get less and less bite if not done. Aggressive chains take more power to run and will put more load on your engine so be conservative if your engine displacement is borderline. It's no different than putting a larger prop on your boat. Overdo it and you'll blow your motor. Aggressive chains are really touchy when plunge cutting with the bar tip because the radius decreases the effect of the rakers so be careful.

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File the rakes down a little bit until you get the cut you desire. I used to be a climber until a few years ago and as far as small saws go Echo=lots of repairs Stihl 020T is the only saw..The company I worked for tried the Echos for a bit but they break so often they arent worth it in the long run. I personally have dropped an echo climbing saw and a 020T on several occasions and echo went straight to the shop for parts the 020 just need bar and sometimes chain brake bar...But back to the chain question make sure your not over barring your saw as well any decent logging supple web site should be able to answer that for you as well. The logging chains are really for people that know how to use them. Keep it safe.



 


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X2 on STIHL saws. I've used just about every kind of saw and bought a Stihl 041AV Farm Boss about ten years ago per the reccommendation of a logger friend. That saw just blows away anything I've ever used and it's still an animal.

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