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Yamaha 250 4 stroke outboard winterizing

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Hello all. First year boater so need some help on winterizing my outboard. My engine has a fresh water washdown connector, which works beautifully. I also bought the ear muffs to run anti-freeze through it and I tried to run the engine with fresh water first. The water pressure throught the garden hose is great but I don't see any water spitting out from the top. I waited up to a minute and shut the engine off scared that I'm going to burn something out. How long does it generally take for the water to pass through and start spitting out from the top? When I was in the warter, it would spit out almost immediately after starting the engine.

 

A sales person at a marine supply store also looked at me as if I was stupid when I tried to buy a winterizing kit (holding tank for antifreeze that connects to the engine water intake). He told me that I didn't need to run any antifreeze through the engine, as it is an outboard. Is this true?

 

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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The water might take a tad more to come out the telltale on the muffs than in the water, but not too long. Make sure you got them on right.

Yes, you don't need to run antifreeze through the outboard, it all drains out with the motor down.

You also don't need to fog through the fi system and run it, just squirt some in each cylinder through the sparkplug hole.

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Well if you plan on starting it, then I think the muffs are required.

I think the washdown connector is for rinsing only, not running.

 

So, the only thing I agree with these guys on is read the manual.

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On my 150 Yam, I just use the on engine rinse connector for a fresh water rinse and let it drain like others said. If IM gonna' run it for a while while on the trailer, I run a hose to the on engine flush connector AND a second hose wit da' muffs just to be on the safe side. BTW - Never noticed any temp difference with one or the other or both. :p

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On my 150 Yam, I just use the on engine rinse connector for a fresh water rinse and let it drain like others said. If IM gonna' run it for a while while on the trailer, I run a hose to the on engine flush connector AND a second hose wit da' muffs just to be on the safe side. BTW - Never noticed any temp difference with one or the other or both. :p

 

Actually, that's what I did as well. Ran one straight to the ear muffs and the other to the wash down connector. I thought that if you don't run the water through the muffs and run the engine for a while, it would melt the impleller.

Unfortunately, the manual doesn't say anything about winterizing with or without coolant. It only talks about the fresh water washdown as a regular maintenance thing. I guess I need to speak with a Yami technician.

Thanks for all the advice and responses guys.

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The big Yamaha V6s don't do well on earmuffs. They barely pee (if at all) and will overheat if you let them run long enough. But you're safe to run it a few minutes on the flush... it's still moving water thru the cooling system. You should see water coming out the propeller. If you have a temp gauge on the boat, or an infared temperature gun, run it until it hits 145 and then let it go another minute. This will assure that the thermostats have opened and freshwater will run thru the entire cooling system.

 

-Change the gearlube or at least crack the screw to make sure the the oil isn't milky.

-Add a fuel stabilizer to your gas tank

-Pull the plugs and spray Yamaha fogging oil in the cylinder heads, then turn the engine over a few times, then spray again and replace the plugs (or install new plugs, if you're so inclined)

-Change oil and oil filter

-Pull prop and grease the shaft

-Grease all the lubrication points and grease fittings, per your owners manual.

-Open the screw on the VST and drain the fuel out.

-Now is also a good time to change fuel filters, fuel/water separator and zincs, if they need it.

 

Do all that, and you should be turn-key in the spring.

 

 

 

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I thought that if you don't run the water through the muffs and run the engine for a while, it would melt the impleller.

Unfortunately, the manual doesn't say anything about winterizing with or without coolant.

 

The flush attachment bypasses the impeller, and is meant to be used with the engine not running. If the engine is running, you better be in the water or have ear muffs on, or the impeller will be destroyed in short order.

 

I never went to Yamaha school, but worked in a shop with two Yamaha techs...one a master mechanic and one that will be soon. We never used coolant/antifreeze to do a winterization. Basically did the checklist I just posted, along with standard compression and spark tests.

 

 

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You also don't need to fog through the fi system and run it, just squirt some in each cylinder through the sparkplug hole.

 

Which completely defeats the purpose of fogging.

 

Take off spark arrestor, shoot into throttle body until it stalls. Spreads the fogging oil through the cylinders and around the valves.

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Thanks. I'm half way done with what Chief posted. I just need to change out all the filters/water separator and fog the engine. I'll just spray removing the spark plugs instead of trying to stall it. Looks like I also won't be running any antifreeze through the engine. Thanks all. It's still nice to hear everyone's opinions and experiences, that I can learn from. That's why I love this place.

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bob you're wrong. Fogging oil has a lot of purposes, not just libricating crank and bearrings.

 

I know, that's why I said spray some in the cylinders, but I wouldn't spray it in the "throttle body" of a 4s till it stalls.

 

You do what you want Chief, and you're entitled to your opinion.

 

Mine is you're wrong.

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