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Abu Blue Yonder

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Just picked up a new one of these on the SOL BST.

Any tips on using the braking system of a Blue Yonder? This is the first Abu I have owned with the braking dial on the sideplate with the numbers and settings. I am only used to adjusting the normal brake on the other side with my 6500s for casting.

Any thoughts on how to dial them both in would be appreciated...thanks.

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This is from the casting forum:

Nick, I am going to try and help you over the web. If I am not mistaken the rod you have is 10' and rated for 3-6 oz sinkers. I don't know the rod but an educated guess is that it will load best with a 5oz sinker. The first thing you need to do is set the spool tension on your reel. You have 2 knobs to work with. One on either side of the reel. When you are finished adjusting the spool, it should be centered and there should be a very slight amount of sideplay or sideways movement if you try to move the spool towards one endcap or the other. We are only talking about 4 or 5 1/100's of an inch. Your spool should spin very freely with no braking effect from the tension caps. That is very important. Most folks think they should use them for brakes. That is the wrong application for them. They should be used only to position the spool and contain the spool. The spool should be full of 15-20lb test premium monofilament. You need a shock leader that will make three or four wraps around the reel spool and go thru the guides and reach back down to the reel. It should be 50lb test mono. attach a 5oz sinker via a 120 .lb or stronger snap. Watch the videos on Hatteras Outfitter's site. Your first cast should be just lobs to get your timing right and to get your thumb educated. If your reel is running too fast you can change to the slowest brake blocks and/or red rocket fuel for oil. If it is still too fast seek qualified help to watch you and see what you are doing wrong. Ideally when you are fishing or just learning to distance cast you want the line to come off the reel without any fluff what so ever. As you get better you can use the brake blocks and bearing oil to speed the reel up to a point where the line as it comes off the spool is not touching the spool for a 1/4 to 1/2 wrap. It takes practice in line laying and casting to run a reel at the edge of ideal like that but it is only necessary if you want to compete with the big boy's or to reach the fish that are supposedly just out of reach. If you get the right help early on you can be casting your rig 175 Yds or better in short order. Study Blackbeard's site and Tres' site for expert tips on tuning your reel and casting it. Good luck AL

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So the two tension knobs are for centering of the spool only? What are all the numbers for and the ring that spins around them with the indicator? Thanks...

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The Ambassadeur Blue Yonder (6500C3CT) has centrifugal brakes that can only be accessed and set by opening the right side plate. The reel comes standard from the factory w/ 2 small fiber/plastic block brakes already in place... They slide outward against a circular drum via centrifugal force when the spool is spinning...the faster the spool speed, the greater the centrifugal pressure... Design to slow down the spool some at high rev's...

 

When first starting out leave the 2 brakes in place...later you can remove one or both to allow for greater spool speed, which could equate to a longer cast if you know what you are doing...

 

Note if you take the right side plate off for whatever reason, take extra care in reassembling to ensure the brakes stay on the arms or pins they ride on...its very easy for them to fall off their arms during reassembly w/o you knowing it...

 

The 2 chrome "knobs" on the reel are called several different things...tension control knobs, spool centering knobs, bearing caps, etc... First start by loosening both knobs until there is about 3 mm of lateral play in the spool. Then tighten up the right side "bearing cap knob" completely... Now slowly tighten up the left side "tension control knob" in very small increments until the spool starts to move to the right. Check the spool's lateral movement after each adjustment of the left knob...do this until there is the absolute slightest bit of lateral movement in the spool...when you reach this point, look at the spool to see if it centered between the right and left side plate cut-outs for the spool's edge. It is not centered if more or less spool bell is exposed on either side compared to the other side. If the spool is not centered adjust by turning each knob in the same direction at the same time when looking down at the reel...the knobs are turned together forward to the front of the reel to move the spool to the left...backward turns of the knobs and the spool moves to the right. Make adjustments until the spool is centered and again has the absolute slightest lateral (side-to-side) movement in the spool...

 

The numbers and ring w/ an indicator on the left side plate is nothing more than a marker that you could align w/ the arrow looking mark on the left side control knob...sort of reminder of how or where you want the reel set... Moving that ring plays no mechanical part in setting up the reel...actually is nearly worthless IMO...

 

Poppy

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I just got my Abu "Blue Yonder" today in the mail and have soaked the bearings in solvent. I'll fill it up tonight with 15 lb. mono and take it out and cast it tomorrow. I left both of the brake blocks in it.

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The Ambassadeur Blue Yonder (6500C3CT) has centrifugal brakes that can only be accessed and set by opening the right side plate. The reel comes standard from the factory w/ 2 small fiber/plastic block brakes already in place... They slide outward against a circular drum via centrifugal force when the spool is spinning...the faster the spool speed, the greater the centrifugal pressure... Design to slow down the spool some at high rev's...

 

When first starting out leave the 2 brakes in place...later you can remove one or both to allow for greater spool speed, which could equate to a longer cast if you know what you are doing...

 

Note if you take the right side plate off for whatever reason, take extra care in reassembling to ensure the brakes stay on the arms or pins they ride on...its very easy for them to fall off their arms during reassembly w/o you knowing it...

 

The 2 chrome "knobs" on the reel are called several different things...tension control knobs, spool centering knobs, bearing caps, etc... First start by loosening both knobs until there is about 3 mm of lateral play in the spool. Then tighten up the right side "bearing cap knob" completely... Now slowly tighten up the left side "tension control knob" in very small increments until the spool starts to move to the right. Check the spool's lateral movement after each adjustment of the left knob...do this until there is the absolute slightest bit of lateral movement in the spool...when you reach this point, look at the spool to see if it centered between the right and left side plate cut-outs for the spool's edge. It is not centered if more or less spool bell is exposed on either side compared to the other side. If the spool is not centered adjust by turning each knob in the same direction at the same time when looking down at the reel...the knobs are turned together forward to the front of the reel to move the spool to the left...backward turns of the knobs and the spool moves to the right. Make adjustments until the spool is centered and again has the absolute slightest lateral (side-to-side) movement in the spool...

 

The numbers and ring w/ an indicator on the left side plate is nothing more than a marker that you could align w/ the arrow looking mark on the left side control knob...sort of reminder of how or where you want the reel set... Moving that ring plays no mechanical part in setting up the reel...actually is nearly worthless IMO...

 

Poppy

 

Thanks for the info. Good stuff. On my Abu 6500s C3s I would usually use the right knob to control how fast the lure would drop to the ground for the lure weight, tweaking the knob to allow a slow steady drop, which was supposed to prevent backlashes.

 

Do you still have to do this with a Blue Yonder? If you only use the knobs for centering the spool, when can you adjust the speed at which the lure will drop/backlash prevention?

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Poppy Thanks for the info. Good stuff. On my Abu 6500s C3s I would usually use the right knob to control how fast the lure would drop to the ground for the lure weight, tweaking the knob to allow a slow steady drop, which was supposed to prevent backlashes.

 

Do you still have to do this with a Blue Yonder? If you only use the knobs for centering the spool, when can you adjust the speed at which the lure will drop/backlash prevention?

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Poppy

 

Thanks for the info. Good stuff. On my Abu 6500s C3s I would usually use the right knob to control how fast the lure would drop to the ground for the lure weight, tweaking the knob to allow a slow steady drop, which was supposed to prevent backlashes.

 

Do you still have to do this with a Blue Yonder? If you only use the knobs for centering the spool, when can you adjust the speed at which the lure will drop/backlash prevention?

 

i think everybody has their own system.

 

i use the right side to center the spool.

the left side can be used to apply tension to control the spool if you think you need it or for varing conditions/baits. i start by backing out the left side so the spool as loose as i think i can use it like if the wind is at my back, then i set the little indicator to 0. for my first cast i will then set the left side knob to 4 or 5 and lob a few to see how it feels. loosen or tighten this for your "style" and for conditions. after a while you will be able to set the reel very close to any conditions and bait combinations you may have to deal with. i think the C3 comes with white breaks. you might want to start with these and move to the lighter ones as you get used to the new reel.

some of my internationals came with a speed bushing and a white gear. if you have both the speed bushing is faster. on my internationals with magnets i generally leave the spool so it knocks and use the magnets for control. you have three options. 1. the left side knob. 2. oil in the spool bearings. 3. breaks under the right side. the oil and breaks are a little more work to get to so if you can tune the left side knob it makes life easier. you can alsovary the amount of line on the spool but i like to use a full spool just in case i get lucky.

 

if you want to know more you should look online for a block named neil mackellow. (alias blackbeard i think) or go to the distance forum and search "tuning'

 

have fun!

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They say that using the knobs for braking will ruin the bearings. I can see how that would happen. The "Blue Yonder" is a very specialized casting reel- like I said it's a souped-up hotrod.

 

I'm taking mine out for the first time today at lunchtime.

lg_smile.gif

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