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how to dissemble your van staal, macguyver style

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17 hours ago, sharkfishing said:

l what u need to push out and in bearings from roller shaft all costs less than 5$ at every home depot or Lowe's. Not going take part my roller to show u ,clamp pushed shaft inside coupling depending of direction u pushing out or in easy and simple took me 20 seconds to find way home made mini press 

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@sharkfishing, are your referring to the line roller bearing on this tool ? from the look of it ?

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No that's the tool to press and separate the pinion gear from the pinion stack so you can change the pinion bearing and the main seal. The $5 tool is to remove the pinion stack from reel body. There is a notched retaining ring holding it in place. Remove side plate is easily if you have a modern vs reel with hexagon side plate and the vs tool.  Don't hold the flyer with your hand while remove the side plate.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I've done many of these VS line roller rebuilds..... This is my version of the operation.

 I keep it pretty simple (i guess)….

 

I have a machine shop to work with but I like to make most of my tooling to use the mechanics of a Bridgeport milling machine & machine vise for pressing & pulling if I can.

 

It’s usually just small plates, spacers or shafts to do almost everything anyway, no fancy, elaborate fixture designs needed….

 

The same principles can be applied using a common drill press & small vise….

 

tools.jpg.109085290fcc05b3d34df2cfae4bf094.jpg

 

Imo, one of the biggest challenges with disassembling the line roller is taking out the snap ring for the first time.... it has to come out somewhat diagonally, the clip's nodes are too big for it to come straight out... I use a small pair of angled snap ring pliers with modified ends for clearance purposes & a little patience.

Once the clip is out I sand flats on the nodes so it can go back in straight not diagonally, makes it a whole lot easier the next time it's disassembled.....


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Pull the bearings out of the roller

Once the Snap ring is removed & If you’re lucky, the bearing stack will slide right out of the roller by hand, no tools required.... that’s usually not the case, in the real world, after the rollers been used for "X" amount of years I find the bearing stack is usually packed with salt crystals & grit so 9 out of 10 times it needs to be pulled out of the roller.... soaking it in hot water helps to loosen everything up. 

I hold a 6-32 tapped shaft in the spindle of a milling machine with the roller axle screwed into the shaft. The shaft is the same diameter as the bearings so that both will pass thru the plate described below.

To pull the bearings out of the roller, I mount a plate in the machines vise with an appropriately sized clearance hole for only the bearings and arbor to pass thru but not the roller & pull the bearing stack out banking the roller on the bottom of the plate......

 

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Press the bearings off of the shaft (sometimes necessary)

If the bearings are frozen on the shaft once they're out of the roller I take the stack, still attached to the arbor, and press the bearings off the axle using another hole in the plate that allows only the axle to pass thru and not the bearings...... once everything is cleaned up this is a slip fit at re-assembly.

 

Throughout this whole process I find that with stubborn assemblies ( even with non-stubborn assys.) it’s pretty important to keep everything perfectly straight & lined up, once you start pressing or pulling things on an angle like you would with c-clamps, etc bad things can & will happen, once you bend the bearing shaft the roller will never spin freely again, that’s if you manage to get it out in one pc….

 

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Disassembled roller

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Re-assembly

After clean up or bearing replacement  the stack slides right back into the roller, nothing is a press fit, everything is a  slip fit, bearings will slide onto the shaft & the shaft will slide into the roller without any pressing. Sometimes it needs a little gentle push to get the assy. to the proper depth for installing the snap ring but it is very minimal pressure...

 

I use this little base i turned on the lathe to capture the face of the bearing keeping everything tight together for that last nudge to final depth by hand.

 

 After modifying the snap ring nodes as mentioned earlier it goes straight back in with no problems, install seal & you're done....... 

 

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Edited by BillZ

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Don't be scared little boys, just do it, worse case you pay to have it fixed anyway, the price of knowledge, but eventually you will succeed and grow.

 

Thank you all for the educational concepts and ideas.

Van Staal should add a pinion jig/tool/nut to the self service kit, you really should replace the seal in the main bearing (above the pinion gear) and O-ring at least once out of the three time you self service. Said kit is incomplete.

 

I like to do things myself vs sending things to be fixed/maintained, It's how you learn and grow. Independence vs Dependent. (I was dependent on someone for this and now I'm not - thanks for the education).

 

I included my example with items I had. Drilled a 1/2" hole in a plastic oil filter removal tool, chivel pinion shape in plywood, use vise for pressure, socket as bushing, wrench (reverse thread) easy peasy.

 

Now to get the needle bearing out of side plate.

Pinion jig 1.JPG

Pinion gear jig 2.JPG

VS250 assmby.JPG

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