dogboy Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 i have some cracks in the hair plaster in a room i am re-doing there is some water damage, but the leaky roof was repaired a couple of years ago i have grooved out the cracks and fastened any loose spots with ceiling buttons the cracks have been widened out as needed, say from an inch to 2 inches wide most of the base coat is intact and tight to the lathes- the lathes peek out here and there i plan on painting the raw surfaces with diluted carpenters glue so the new stuff sticks to the old then i am going to lightly scrape/sand the wall surface to remove any stray bumps that might result the entire corner has been cleaned out too, and i am going to use fiberglass tape there i prefer to avoid taping the cracks on the wall itself if possible what should i use for the first plaster application? in the past i have mostly used wallboard compound and sometimes regretted it i have also used durabond, but it gets hard as a rock when it dries and is tougher to blend things in is there another product i should consider the knowledgeable folks at wallpaper city say to stick with wallboard compound, not sure if my wife explained the situation accurately though anybody? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seaviewer Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Durabond is all we use for 1st coat applications. Just don't bring it proud of the surface so that subsequent layers of JC can be applied w/o sanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogboy Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Durabond is all we use for 1st coat applications. Just don't bring it proud of the surface so that subsequent layers of JC can be applied w/o sanding. problem solved then are there different types of durabond, or is it one product? would a latex additive help, or just use water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedracer Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 I've done this type of plaster repair a million times with great success. Here's what I do: After you remove all the loose plaster apply a coat of hot mud to the voids. It helps if you lightly mist the base coat with water before you do this. I use Easysand 45 , not Durabond. It's just a little bit easier to use. Don't go thicker than 3/8" on any coat. Keep building until you get flush with the existing plaster. Now you're ready for the finish coats. Use conventional pre-mixed drywall mud for this. I thin the mud out a little so the paper tape sticks better. I never use fiberglass tape on plaster. Fiberglass tape is designed to be used in conjunction with hot mud on drywall joints. It doesn't adhere very well on plaster and it will buckle and eventually the adhesive dries out and it comes loose with any movement. I can't tell you how many jobs I have fixed because some guy used fiberglass tape that failed 3 years later.( or less) PS. You also have to make sure the surrounding plaster is clean when you do these repairs. Spackle doesn't adhere well to mold and dirt especially when you are feathering in a repair. You're getting sleepy. ....very sleepy..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwsmike Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 I've had good success using plater of Paris for filling the large voids. Stay away from the mesh tape as SR mentioned. Make sure the pop is below the surface. It cures pretty fast, then you can finish coat with regular compound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gadwall8 Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 I've had excellent results using Plaster Weld by Larson Prducts. on speedracers instructions. "I came into this world naked, screaming at the top of my lungs, and covered in someone else's blood. I got no problem leaving it that way."Who can hope to be safe? Who sufficiently cautious? Guard himself as he may, every moment's an ambush. Horace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogboy Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 fiberglass out paper in i got both didn't know that- i figured the glass would be stronger and held in place by the goop thanks folks you prolly saved me a lot of aggravation, from both the job at hand and "she who must be obeyed" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Churchman Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 After you get the loose stuff out of the crack, get a product called thorobond. Paint the crack with this bonding agent and let dry. It keeps the old stuff from lifting while you apply the brown coat. Then you want to brown coat it with Structolite. Dont worry about making it smooth and leave it about an 1/8 to 3/16 shy. After that finish with 90 minute easy sand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landwave Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Along with SR's instructions I would use Durabond for the first coat. Leave it shy as it does not sand without a belt sander. Durabond will not shrink and crack like easy-sand as it dries. Finish with easysand or mud. We're not here for a long time, just a good time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightfighter Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Krack Kote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogboy Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 went to the local paint and wallpaper place yesterday for the hot coat, they had durabond 45 and 90- so i bought the 90 i will make sure not to bring it too close to the surface they had a bonding agent that the owner and i both agreed was probably just elmers glue since a gallon would have been way too much, i am going to used carpenters glue thinned a bit as originally planned for the second coat, they had a few different kinds of easysand, from 5 to 90 i think i'll get that when i'm ready- i was leaning toward 45 unless someone convinces me otherwise thanks for all the good advice- i think you have saved me from having the job fail over time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimW Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 Late to the party but yes, they probably have saved you from failure. I have only used bonding agent for masonry but I probably wouldn't use it on plaster unless skim coating. If your covering horse hair scratch coat Durabond direct seemed to work very well. I guess the corner you mentioned is an inside but on outside corners Durabond right over the bead for first coat too. "I have ... put a lump of ice into an equal quantity of water ... if a little sea salt be added to the water we shall produce a fluid sensibly colder than the ice was in the beginning, which has appeared a curious and puzzling thing to those unacquainted with the general fact."- Joseph Black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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