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Jay in the Bay

Replacing car speakers

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I replaced the factory unit of my car w a JVC stereo (KD-R200 if you want to look it up) I got for a bargain at Best Buy. I only got it b/c I needed the cd player as well as the AUX jack for ipod and sat. radio w/o using the fm transmitter, not to mention it was on sale for $50.

 

Anyway, I want to replace the factory speakers as well, as they distort with the bass turned up. The stereo has a max output of 4x50W. Does this mean it only puts out 50w of power to the speakers, or 200?

 

If only 50, would I need an amp to get the use out of higher wattage speakers, say up to 200W? The stereo unit has a pair of pre-amp outs.

 

I'm not looking to blast out the ghetto, but just to add some "meat" and "ummph" to my classic rock. Many thanks!!!

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I double checked with the family car stereo expert, my 21 year old son, since I haven't dealt with this too much since god knows when. His stereo equipment is worth more than his current ride. wink.gif

 

4x50 means 50 watts per channel, and you can power up to four speakers with 50 watts each. To boost output, you need an amp. Be carefull since you might end up needing a bigger alternator/battery to put out the power needed depending on how far you go. I know this for a fact because I had to go and rescue him one night recently when his alternator died from overuse. cwm27.gif

 

For classic rock, he suggested looking for an amp that will maximize the mid-range. He then went into talking about speakers, boxes, and more that I care to know about car stereos.

 

I should ask him stereo questions more often. It's the first time in who knows how long that he's said more than 10 words to me. cwm40.gif

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You will only need an amp if you want to really feel the low end.

50W into good speakers should be fine.

 

Chruchfield is your friend.....

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just pick up a few alpine 6x9 speakers or 7 1/2", whatever fits your door and you'll be all set for now. you really don't need an amp unless you're picky about your music. an upgraded headunit and upgraded speakers are all you need unless you plan on installing a subwoofer at some point.

 

i'm guessing because you bargain shopped for a headunit, you're like me and just need it to sound good, not GREAT!

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a website like crutchfield will help you select sizes. you can get adapters if you want a certain size but it does not fit in your car. you can also order step by step directions for your specific car which help when you try and remove a door panel and can't figure out where that last screw is hiding. i have used crutchfield in the past and they were very helpful. you can also get adapters that plug into existing wires and then to the speakers so you dont have to cut anything, it makes it a little easier.

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That head unit is 20W RMS x 4 channel and peak is 50W x 4 channel. 20W RMS is on the high end of the spectrum as 14W RMS to 17W RMS is more common. Basically each speaker gets 20W "continuous" power and 50W during bursts.

 

I think that you can gain quite a bit by upgrading the door speakers without going to an external amp. Get speakers with a high sensitivity rating, wide range frequency response, and your RMS power is roughly in the middle of the speaker capability. Have Crutchfield mail you a catalog so it's easier to see the speaker specs.

 

Adding a something like a single 10-inch sealed enclosure subwoofer is good for rock. Sealed enclosures do need a bit more power, but the sound doesn't lose the 'edge' so you'll get that extra punch from the drums and bass. It's pretty simple to do with the head unit already having a rear/sub pre-amp out (see below) and a selectable low-pass filter.

 

Subwoofer Output with Level/Frequency Control

Connect an external amplifier to a head unit with subwoofer out terminals, and your subwoofer is good to go. A low-pass filter is built into the system, making a crossover network unnecessary. You can boost or decrease the level and select the cut-off frequency (Low/Mid/High) right from the dash, depending on your subwoofer's capabilities and the other speakers in your car audio system.

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The "amp" in head units may say 50X4 but you won't be getting that kind of power. That's like taking a reel's line capacity rating and saying that's how far you will cast wink.gif

 

Upgrading our speakers will make it sound better, but if you want louder, you need an amplifier.

 

Just looking for bass? Can always go with a powered subwoofer enclosure such as the good old Bazooka bass tube or a multitude of other powered enclosures. Rockford Prime RS300-12 is pretty good.

 

Of course you can go with a multi-channel amp and add on a regular enclosure. That would need the amp to power the bass and the other channels to power the front/rears. Number of channels and power rating depends on speaker requirements and how many.

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Anyway, I want to replace the factory speakers as well, as they distort with the bass turned up. The stereo has a max output of 4x50W. Does this mean it only puts out 50w of power to the speakers, or 200?

 

 

 

my speakers distrot as well and I'm going to be replacing them maybe next week - it's so annoying when they buzz - no intentions of amplifying ... that's my college kids domain

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Depends on the vehicle how much of a pain it'll be to change out speakers. But places like Crutchfield send you the installation parts and instructions to make it easier.

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When I was young I had the same situation. What I did is use my Sun Bass ampliflier had three 20 speakers. I sold my fender bass about six months before that and needed the amp no longer. They where 500 watt each and I had to get a couple of amps totaling 1500 watts to solve that problem. But the sound was too much for my mustang. You could only turn the volume up 1/4 of its power because of the windows shaking!bigeyes.gifbigeyes.gifcwm18.gifconfused.gif

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