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Question On Using A Under And A Over

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When you are using A under and A over do you have any problems getting the overwraps packed nice and neat? Do you recommend a coat of cp or something for the underwraps?

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View PostYou can pit a coat of finish on the underwrap but i wouldnt use cp

 

Exactly!

Put a thin coat of finish on the underwrap, and you can use CP on your underwrap, so long as it is all under the finish.

Wrapping over CPed thread is kind of a bummer (at least I find it to be), as the overwrap mashes into the underwrap a bit and makes packing total h#!l on a good day.

I use just a heavy enough coat to get rid of the thread texture.

When you coat the overwraps, just coat them, nice thin coats.

Once the texture is covered on the overwraps, scuff the entire wrap and do one last thin coat over the entire shootin' match.

Done properly, your finish will be very light, no footballing around the guide feet and no web of finish between the blank and the guide frame's legs, nor a big bubble trapped in that web.

The downside?

This method takes a lot more time than one big blobbed on coat.

The upside?

Your wraps finish will be flawless and about as low weight as you can get and have a gloss coat.

No bubbles... The finish coat is so thin, the bubbles are already at the surface, POP!smile.gif

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I find touching thread with a coat or two of dry CP gives that cloudy white tint to it. So of course overwraping it can do the same.

 

I never have an issue wrapping A overwrap over A underwrap. I wrap each turn tight to the previous on the underwrap (not thread tension tight , sideways placement tight. I also often take the braod smooth side of the thread tool and flatten the thread down. Its like changing it from round to oval or flat. This action further tightens it side to side. The problem you are eluding to sounds to me like the A underwrap has spaces where the overwrap drops into this leaving a prace beteen the overwrap turns.

 

Prefinishing the underwrap is the best way to go. It does however add significantly to the time to finish the whole rod. I find that not only do you lose overnight to let it cure , but you should leave it maybe 2 to 3 days for it to get hard. If its cured but not hard , the overwrap thin A thread will dig into it. Somethimes this makes it impossible to pack afterwrads. That was mentioned above but I want to reemphasise , it just doesn't get hard to move , its damned near impossible unless you go the very risky route or lifting and packing which requires a really pionter tool and can often result in breaking the line.

 

Ideal method....coat the underwrap with plenty enough finish for it to totally soak through to the blank. Hit it with a little heat to make it even more liquid and leiminate any tiny airpockets in the thread. Remove all excess finish by wiping it off with the brush then wiping the brush with a clean , lint free material. Keep doing this until you jsut can't get any more off. let it cure 3 days , overwrap and finish the whole guide with the thread finish.

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