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The Riddler

Graphite Vs Glass Rods for the kayak angler

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Fast Action Graphite rods and Braid with 2'-8' Flourocarbon leaders was the normal set up for me for casting plugs and rubber. A nice sensitive system but even with long leaders there was not a lot of give. The rate of pulled hooks was getting to be too high for my liking over time. Asked for advice and was lead to composite rods. This season I have implemented composite rods into the line up. I'm real happy with the results so far. Even when caught by surprise by a strike or off balance situation at hook set, I am now landing bass that previously I would have dropped or had a high percentage of dropping. I cast plastics with single hooks, most of it weightless from the kayak. 7'-7'6" rods is all I use. I needed a tip with give and not weigh a ton like most 100 percent glass rods that I have had from the past. So far so good with hooks ups and landings.

 

When I first started in this sport I was using ugly sticks. Worked great.Soft tip. My only complaint was the guides and the inability to throw some of the bigger stuff and still remain lite in my hands. If a kayak rod set up is heavy in the hands, I won't use it as much.

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Great thread. After my first full year of kayak fishing, 90% of it casting lures of some sort, the need for light weight rods and the right amount of backbone and action in the tip is really starting to get my attention.

 

If you would like to post some more pics of your rods, I'd love to see em. I, and I think everyone else here, would agree your rods are beautiful.

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Thanks for the compliment. I'm a beginner rod builder and learned a lot from the guys on SOL and Slappy. If I'm building, anybody can. Slappy has a different perspective on extra fast action graphite that suits his fishing needs and is very effective. He has also inspired me to sprial wrap the rods. If he sees this thread when he is not slamming fish in the black, he may share some knowledge with us that could help someone choose a better blank for their style of fishing.

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Rid, for the bigger plastics, especially with glass, an extra fast rod isn't as helpful. I tend to use mod-fast rods for big plastics and like the way they perform.

 

I haven't been using glass rods lately, but with braid, there should be a benefit to a more forgiving rod, especially when the fight is in close to the boat as it often is when yak fishing. Plus glass is much more durable for high sticking which most of us yakkers do when we land a fish.

 

There are some lighter glass rods out there these days, maybe some of the pro builders can give a good recommendation on some blanks.

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In general I agree with the glass/composite rods vs. graphite comments. Certainly true for high end stiff graphite blanks like those from St Coix and Loomis (GLX, Legend, etc).

 

One exception to the rule though are the live bait series of all graphite blanks from Lamiglas. They have a nice moderate bend and provide the cushion needed with braid, without having a noodle tip. They are some of my favorite blanks to fish with from the yak.

 

Alex

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Thanks for info. I'll take a second look at other types of medium graphite rods this off season and see if there is something there that will work.

 

I'm really starting to dig that Calstar 800XL with 6" of the butt. It's 10-25lb but has enough tip to toss 2oz and plenty of back bone from stiffer graphite.

I also have the 800L with 6" off the butt and it feels like a cannon after tossing the XL all night. The L will throw 4oz no problem.

 

Those low profile reels geared for the salt, make it easy to cast through a trip. Round reels like my Calcutta 200 TE is great but the 400 was just too big to cast for a whole trip.

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I fish sluggos on the surface and topwater plugs mostly. I really like a medium heavy action moderate tapered rod. But it has been a challenge finding any manufacturer that makes a good rod like this.

 

So, in adding to the curiosity in rod building and what action you get from a composite rod build, are there any particular blanks that I could build a 7-7.5 foot rod for an even medium taper with a medium heavy action?

 

I would like to build my own rod and try it. I think that I have reached my limit with stock rods and now want something specific that might require having one made or building my own.

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View PostSo, in adding to the curiosity in rod building and what action you get from a composite rod build, are there any particular blanks that I could build a 7-7.5 foot rod for an even medium taper with a medium heavy action?

 

My style is basically the same as you as far as weightless plastics goes. I found the calstar 800XL to have a Medium Fast Taper with Medium/Heavy Power. I can work 9" or 10" 7/8oz or 1oz weightless and up to 14" 2oz weightless. Once I put a 3/4oz jig head on that 14" it begins to become overloaded. I use the 800L for that work.

 

Shown in this picture is St. Croix Avid Inshore Fast Taper at the top, followed by Calstar 800XL medium fast taper and Lamiglas MB842F glass rod. The MB842F is a medium taper with Medium to Medium Heavy Power and did not break the bank at 50 bucks. It's 100 percent glass but only weighs 3 1/2oz. I use it for tossing up to 9" weightless plastics and snagging and dropping poagies with a snagger.

 

Like your said, I can't think of any strict Medium/Heavy with a medium taper. Calstar does make an 800XL "H" that could be a medium taper.

Someone in the rodbuilding forum may now about it.

525

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I fish mostly large 1-3oz plastics and plugs as well as tube & worm. The problem I have with rods that flex too much is that i cannot work the baits the way I want to,..just can't get the snap that I want when I twitch the rod!...Ditto to everyone that's said anything about the weight of the rod. Casting is one thing,..but twitching large/heavy jerkbaits for any length of time is quite another! The best rods I've found for my style of fishing have been my 7'11" Shimano Crucial swimbait rods. MH/fast for the lighter stuff and H/mod-fast for the heavier stuff. I don't have any problem setting hooks or getting the fish to the boat,..although I'm using fluorocarbon mainline rather than braid, so I get a bit more give from the line as well! You still have to be able to load the rod and cast efficiently, but I think that you can really fine tune the rod action by the line that you use,..braid makes your setup stiffer and more sensitive,..mono makes your setup flexible and more forgiving,..and fluoro is somewhere in between! If you are losing fish on the hookset,..you probably need to go stiffer,..if you are losing fish during the fight,..you need more flex! Changing line is a lot easier and cheaper than changing your rod! Just my $.02shaky.gif

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I just gotta chime in, even though most of my fish are in the 8-15 pound range, not the monster stripers you are going for. My best all arounder is a Shimano Teramar 8' Med. action Mod/fast taper. It's a bit heavier than I'd like for all day fishing, but the TC4 composite construction is stellar. I fish mine with mono. There may be a rod in that lineup for you.

 

Tight lines.

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crowder makes a musky rod rated 12-30 1/2-1.5 with a mod fast action. another consideration is using one of shimano's trevalla rods to do the same.

 

imho there is a need for glass; but when light weight and repetitive casting is a concern there is nothing better than braid with a light weight graphite rod with a moderate fast action.

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hello, I build on Lamiglas tri-flex blanks, they are a nice combination of graphite and fiberglass, the best all around blank I have found and works great for me is the CGBT 84-1 L. ( or the BL 7020 C or S, casting or spinning; off the rack, these are with Eva grips or the TFX 7020 C or S, with cork grips) go to Lami's web site and you'll see all the specs there. combo this up with the Fuji Alconite guides and you'll have a light but powerful rod for your yak. good luck and tight linessmile.gif

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