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Aftco finish Q

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Have a couple bottles I bough over two years ago and the hardener looks brownish in color, now I cant remember if it was like that when I bought it or if I need to order a a couple new bottles?

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I had used several bottles of this prior to its release, and afterward.

Here is what I had found; The first samples had a curing problem. WE would mix approx 2 different 1 oz portions in a variety of different atmospheric conditions. We would at the same time mix other brands to test the cure rates. Each session would involve 8-12 rods. Initially it would take about 3 days to harden, each day a little harder. They sent other batches spread out over several months each. Each batch had a slightly faster cure rate, but even the latest took two days. We kept each experiment consistant with an average of 8-12 rods per session.

My conclusions are that its cure rate is too slow for the type of production that I'm involved in. Perhaps, if you can wait a day or two longer you might like it.

I felt that the general body was too light, and a high build was not as easily attainable as with Flexcoat, Pac Bay, or Amtak, all three top finishes.

It did dispreserse bubbles well.

As for clarity, it had a good shean, however as for yellowing it accelerates to amber faster than any finish that I have worked with.

I have assorted samples of all finishes that I save to examine the rate of 'ambering'. The Aftcote will generally turn a 'coffee' brown, B/D classics, and Amtak a redish brown, Flexcoat amber, Pac bay a slight amber, and it appears that Pac bay holds up the best of those mentioned. Threadmaster, a newer brand will amber as well, at about the rate of flexcoat. I dont like this finish. It does apply and 'work' well but the fumes are more than I can bear. I have 10' ceilings in my shop, [epoxy area about 12'x24', plenty of ventilation, but this stuff 'stinks up the joint'. It smells like diesel fumes and I cant imagine someone using it in a confined area.

I use several finishes for different applications and have found that 'ambering' is something that has not yet been overcome, yet they all claim, "non yellowing"

As for your old finish, it's usable. I have wholesalers that have stocks of Aftco that have in 6-9 months 'browned' so bad that they cannot sell it without it being returned.

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I just purchased some last week and the hardner is almost as clear as the resin, with a very slight yellow tint to it,

According to Aftco and the local rod builders the shelf life is about one year.

I wouldnt chance it , you want a nice finish after all that work.

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Wow, thanks for that Kevin. Personally I have used flex coat which is nice and have used aftco on my last rod and must say the aftco suits my taste much better.

 

Yeah Im not chancing my hard work for 10 bucks TTGG

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View PostWow, thanks for that Kevin. Personally I have used flex coat which is nice and have used aftco on my last rod and must say the aftco suits my taste much better.

 

Yeah Im not chancing my hard work for 10 bucks TTGG

 

 

Your welcome. I see what you mean, why take a chance on the old finish? Get a new bottle and dont worry. BUT! save the old stuff, it makes a great glue.wink.gif

Paul, I hear a lot good about that stuff, great tip. What do you like about it?

I used it many years ago when it was a Gene Bullard product. It was very good. They have contacted me to buy it but I thought the program was more money than I wanted to go for. I'm sure the quality is there though. It was always good against fast ambering. Have you had it for months yet, curious as to whether you see one half turning.

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IT will be fine if you use it, if you slop it on and apply a lot of finish, it might not be entirely clear. If you apply it thin, you're not goign to notice the ambering. I'd get a new batch myself, but nothing bad is goign to happen if you use it. Aftcote takes a long time to set up, but it is the clearest finish after being exposed to sunlight for long periods of time. IT is really flexible, and takes a while to fully cure, and even when it does it is easily scratched up, leaving white streaks which cannot be removed. THEre's an easy fix for this though, just mix it with another finish, I'm not retyping all that though.

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View PostIT will be fine if you use it, if you slop it on and apply a lot of finish, it might not be entirely clear. If you apply it thin, you're not goign to notice the ambering. I'd get a new batch myself, but nothing bad is goign to happen if you use it. Aftcote takes a long time to set up, but it is the clearest finish after being exposed to sunlight for long periods of time. IT is really flexible, and takes a while to fully cure, and even when it does it is easily scratched up, leaving white streaks which cannot be removed. THEre's an easy fix for this though, just mix it with another finish, I'm not retyping all that though.

 

Cool, just mixed the aftco with some flex coat high build and applied it, looks good!

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View PostYour welcome. I see what you mean, why take a chance on the old finish? Get a new bottle and dont worry. BUT! save the old stuff, it makes a great glue.wink.gif

Paul, I hear a lot good about that stuff, great tip. What do you like about it?

I used it many years ago when it was a Gene Bullard product. It was very good. They have contacted me to buy it but I thought the program was more money than I wanted to go for. I'm sure the quality is there though. It was always good against fast ambering. Have you had it for months yet, curious as to whether you see one half turning.

 

 

I understanding is that 2 part finishes are in essence casting resins and not glues or adhesives

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G, I hope you tested it first. I mix with TM, and have been posting about it for a couple of years - since I product tested both products before they hit the market.

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Hey Billy, yeah I put it just on the trim wrap by the reel seat just to see how it would come out figuring if it didnt look good I could just re-wrap in a few minutes. But its been spinning for a few hours and starting to dry and it looks good so far.

 

Just gotta go pick up your book tomorrow to help me out with that 3d chevron I plan on doingsmile.gif

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Kevin i think the new Diamond 2 is probably a better finish than Diamond 1. I like it for the way it pops the color. I used Cason's CP and Then Diamond 2. Don't think i have used a better combo. and D2 is Gin, Vodka or water clear what ever you like.

Paul

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Every finish is water clear if both parts start out like that. THey are all bubble free if you know what you are doing. It's how well it holds up to sunlight that determines how clear the epoxy actually is. I havn't had a chance to test D2 yet, Silvia gave me a couple of bottles which I will be doing another round of testing this summer when the sun is strongest. I do this with all new finishes, and share the results at NERBs gatherings, and several guys have done similar testing and have the test samples sitting in their shops.

525

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I have no problem with aftcote curing now that I have a drying box. Before that I did have issues with it in the cold cellar. Some batches totally cure in just 8 hours. Some do take a second overnight but that's rare now that I have the heated drying boxes.

 

I really like working with the aftcote. Someday I want to pic up a little threadmaster and try what Billy does. I have mixed aftcote with flexcoat high nuild and do not like the results.

 

I think you have lots of opinions on the hardener Yellowing.

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