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How many bushings for under a reel seat?

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I am surprised to hear people use so many bushings under the reel seat. Why is more than 2 needed or even sometimes 1 if the reel seat fits over the cork tape end nicely. I fill 100% with epoxxy so why is many bushings 1/2 inch apart better?

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View Post! arbor in the middle?

Or on one end?

 

 

The FC arbors I use -- and since I tried one, I wouldn't use anything else -- cover just about the entire reel seat. There's only about a half inch on either end, and this is on bigger seats. On smaller seats, the arbor covers the entire length of the reel seat.

 

All ya gots to do to use one is epoxy the arbor into the inside of the reel seat, let the epoxy dry, then ream the inside of the arbor to fit the blank. It sounds like a lot more work than it is -- the entire process takes about five minutes, and that's with a hand reamer. If you have a mechanical reamer, it will take less than a minute.

 

I've posted this before, but considering how easy, how effective, and how clean polyurethane arbors are, you have to be crazy to use any kind of tape. The $1 apiece they cost is way worth it. Tape arbors, in my humble opinion, should be relegated to the historical scrap heap, along with stainless guides and bamboo surf rods.

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View Post! arbor in the middle?

Or on one end?

 

 

Spend $1.50 and buy one, you'll see how silly this question is.

 

On heavier rods I'm skeptical about the FC arbors holding up. As a result, I had someone make me super strong arbors out of 16# Foam core. While itmightbe overkill, tehy will certainly hold up a lot better than teh FC arbors, which I think are 4# foam.

 

When I glue up grips, I take the leftover epoxy (already mixed) which I used to throw out, and glue up a bunch of arbors inside reel seats. It takes about 1 minute per seat to glue up, and you don't have to mix up a batch of epoxy just for that. When you need the seat, drill out the arbor using the pilot spade bits (FC sells these for a LOT of money), and hand ream the final bit - this takes a few minutes since you have to size the blank, find teh bit, chuck it up, vaccuum the dust, and then hand ream to fit.

 

Whatever works for you is fine by me. AS long as the seat holds up and doesnt' spin. The main reason I used these is they are MUCH lighter than anything else, and its' really noticeable in teh finished rod. For some it doesn't matter, for me it does.

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I'm so dumb, Billy, that the first time I tried one of these, I tried to ream it first, before it was installed in the reel seat, and I ended up with a handful of dust. I told everyone how lousy they were, until someone suggested installing first and reaming second. A light went on in my chimp brain, and the first time I tried it, I knew that I'd never use tape again.

 

The higher-density foam arbors intrigue me, though. Is the stuff that you use the same stuff that they use for carbon-skinned grips?

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FC arbors are 4#. There are a variety of weights of the foam. Teh guy who was selling the foam at the ICRBE, Riley Rods (Mike PEderson) settled on 5.5# foam as teh ideal weight for underneath his grips, which he uses for NC Grouper, Snapper, Shark & AJ fishing. A friend of mine (posts here as RMS)wanted to use teh carbon skins in place of a Uni butt, so he went and got some 16# Foam. That stuff is TOUGH, hard, strong - I feel much more confidant using that stuff than I do the 4# stuff FC uses - on heavier OFfshore rods.

 

IT's probably overkill, but I'm more confidant using it so that's what I had made for me by Scott from ****. That stuff wasnt' cheap to get done, but it's what I wanted, and it's just another thing that I have which nobody else does so it is even better, lol.

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View PostSpend $1.50 and buy one, you'll see how silly this question is.

 

On heavier rods I'm skeptical about the FC arbors holding up. As a result, I had someone make me super strong arbors out of 16# Foam core. While itmightbe overkill, tehy will certainly hold up a lot better than teh FC arbors, which I think are 4# foam.

 

When I glue up grips, I take the leftover epoxy (already mixed) which I used to throw out, and glue up a bunch of arbors inside reel seats. It takes about 1 minute per seat to glue up, and you don't have to mix up a batch of epoxy just for that. When you need the seat, drill out the arbor using the pilot spade bits (FC sells these for a LOT of money), and hand ream the final bit - this takes a few minutes since you have to size the blank, find teh bit, chuck it up, vaccuum the dust, and then hand ream to fit.

 

Whatever works for you is fine by me. AS long as the seat holds up and doesnt' spin. The main reason I used these is they are MUCH lighter than anything else, and its' really noticeable in teh finished rod. For some it doesn't matter, for me it does.

 

So asking a question rather than buy something is silly? Time to get your ass flamed little hairy man!!tongue.gifcwm27.gif

I now remember the BIG arbor.

I have the small ones from whoever put these out a few years ago.

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It's interesting to see the various ways we use and process bushings. I only use REC round seats for my fly rods because I mount one of my steadying roller assemblies on the seat. So I need it to run true. I take an REC bushing made for the seat I use - the ID of the seat matches the OD of the bushing - and I cut it into 4 even pieces to get a more accurate inside taper. I then ream the inside of the bushing pieces by hand using a tapered reamer. I can get the wall to a little less than 1/16" if needed. I then epoxy the bushing pieces to the blank - seperating the pieces so that they extend the whole length of the seat. When dry I epoxy the seat to the bushing. I find that the resulting grip is perfectly round relative to the blank. I then epoxy the cork rings to the blank and turn.

Herb

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I have never had a bushing fail - but it could happen. I started with masking tape migrated to cork and now use fiberglas drywall tape.

 

I do not like the arbors that are first glued to the seat and than reamed, I like masking tape and now favor fibergals drywall tape.

 

I try to be meticulous in the build process and make sure I do miss a step. The results are based on the foundation and prep - clean the blank and the interior of the reel with alcohol, rough up the interior of the seat, sand the blank beneath the seat, make sure the epoxy makes contact between the blank and the seat - and take your time, never use 5 minute epoxy. Plus, I always try to size the reel seat so that the space between the seat and the bank is minimized. Large diameter reel seats and skinny blanks increase the margin for error.

 

I have used paste epoxy, like U40 Rod Bond, and lees viscous expoxies like

Flex Coat Rod Epoxy. They all work. Just need to get a connection between the blank and the seat. Let it flow in, pack it in, use gravity, use pressue, whatever.

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JAmes, it's no easier or difficult to remove than a standard reel seat. YOu still have to cut through the seat and peel it off.

 

CD - I knew that would jog your memory, lol.

 

I think Mudhole's price is for a multi pack. I dunno. I order from ****, the price has gone up a bit since they first came out, but they are $6.20 for a 3 pack of size 20, I order wholesale. Honestly, I don't really price shop or look at prices much anymroe, I just order what I need/want which is usually the same thing over and over. The ones I got made for me by Scott were a bit more expensive, I got them 11" long and in a couple of sizes - he sent me $100 worth for a whole bunch, I think it came out to like $7 per 11" piece.

 

The important thing her eis whatever method youuse, you should undersatnd what bonds teh seat ot teh blank, adn instal the seat properly.

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View PostJAmes, it's no easier or difficult to remove than a standard reel seat. YOu still have to cut through the seat and peel it off.

 

CD - I knew that would jog your memory, lol.

 

I think Mudhole's price is for a multi pack. I dunno. I order from ****, the price has gone up a bit since they first came out, but they are $6.20 for a 3 pack of size 20, I order wholesale. Honestly, I don't really price shop or look at prices much anymroe, I just order what I need/want which is usually the same thing over and over. The ones I got made for me by Scott were a bit more expensive, I got them 11" long and in a couple of sizes - he sent me $100 worth for a whole bunch, I think it came out to like $7 per 11" piece.

 

The important thing her eis whatever method youuse, you should undersatnd what bonds teh seat ot teh blank, adn instal the seat properly.

 

Now I know to call you when I am suffering from ICRS syndromebiggrin.gif

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