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BrianBM

Knife Jigs and Assist Hooks

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I'm looking at these new skinny jigs with a pair of free-dangling hooks added at the front end .... is there a rule of thumb for how long the assist-hook snells should be, in proportion to the size of the jig?

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Should go about 1/3 of the length of the jig on the long skinny jigs and about 1/2 way down on the shorter ones. Make sure the gap of teh hook is wider than the jig otherwise it will hang up more often.

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There's a whole method to rigging with assist hooks on jigs. If you do it wrong the hooks will cut your leader or get tangled a lot. I don't have all that info. I looked it up on another site once and rigged all my stuff accordingly.

 

John

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Leader tied directly to a solid ring.

Jig attached to solid ring w/ split ring.

Assist hooks looped thru solid ring.

This gives a direct connection with leader to hooks while jig swings freely.

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Assist hooks will minimize the leverage a fish has on deforming the hook like in traditional jigs. Fish can not form a proper fulcrum with the body of the lure to straighten or bend the hook. In addition, many predatory fish will strike at the head and so assist hooks will give you better hookup ratios. I can't answer your main question but I thought I would just put that out there.

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I would say that 1/3 to 1/2 of the way down the jig is optimal.

 

I've been making my own assist hooks for a few seasons now (mostly for cod, sometimes for bass in the ditch).

 

I'll never buy one of those overpriced pre-made ones ever again.

525

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View PostI would say that 1/3 to 1/2 of the way down the jig is optimal.

 

I've been making my own assist hooks for a few seasons now (mostly for cod, sometimes for bass in the ditch).

 

I'll never buy one of those overpriced pre-made ones ever again.

 

 

 

Just a little advice.. I highly recommend not to tie the assist hooks in that manner. If the fish happens to cut through one of the hooks, the other hook will go as well. Here's how I and many other anglers rig their assist hooks.

 

assist510_grid.jpg

 

Each hook is tied individually to the solid ring.

(Note: in the picture they tied directly to the jig, you would want to tie the hooks to a solid ring)

 

ihAVuIplhiQ

 

Here's a video in case you wanted to tie up your own.

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To answer you question lacan4a, it protects the knot from teeth, and it also helps to prevent the rig from "escaping" the jig.

 

 

Raza,

 

I have used my rig for a few years now, and have N E V E R lost one.

 

Whatever type of fish manages to bite through the very bite resistant heat shrink, and also manages to chew through 60# dacron deserves to get away, no?

 

If you haven't personally tried my rig Raza, please don't poopoo it.

 

It works well, and I highly recommend it wink.gif

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View PostTo answer you question lacan4a, it protects the knot from teeth, and it also helps to prevent the rig from "escaping" the jig.

 

 

Raza,

 

I have used my rig for a few years now, and have N E V E R lost one.

 

Whatever type of fish manages to bite through the very bite resistant heat shrink, and also manages to chew through 60# dacron deserves to get away, no?

 

If you haven't personally tried my rig Raza, please don't poopoo it.

 

It works well, and I highly recommend it wink.gif

 

 

Sorry i should of been a little more clear on my previous post. biggrin.gif

 

For bass and cod i don't see any problem with that set up. But if you're targeting any fish with teeth such as dogtooth tuna or cubera snapper (just to name a couple) i could see it being a problem. I have actually used that rigging method before and was using 100+# dacron/braid with heat shrink tubing when I hooked into a doggie and my jig came back up fish and hookless.

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