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Hannibal

Electrical wiring help ..........

17 posts in this topic

I THINK I know what I need to do but figure I'd call on experience to double check:

 

I currently have a 12v dry cell battery mounted in the front storage hatch of my Prowler Big Game. It ONLY powers up a Cuda 168 (I think it is).

 

I am in the process now of building/mounting a livewell to ride in the back compartment. I am using a 500 gph (smallest I could find) bilge pump that requires 1.5 amps so therefore I now have to upgrade my current battery to a rechargeable 12v/7amp setup.

 

Here is where I need some opinions. Most of my fishing will not require the livewell so I want to be able to easily take it off/disconnect from power. Also, in order to not drain the battery too quick, I plan on only cycling the pump to recirculate the water. Basically, I plan to utilize to toggle switches - one between the battery and FF and one between the battery of livewell.

 

Here are my questions:

 

1) I have 18 guage wire running from the current battery to the FF - will that be sufficient with the increased amps/setup of the new battery? I believe it shouldn't matter.

 

2) Will 18 guage wire be suitable for running to the bilge pump?

 

3) The FF came with a prewired in line fuse but the bilge pump did not. I assume I would need one but what size? 1.5 amp (draw from the pump) or should I go up a bit?

 

4) Where in the line should I install the fuse? Between the battery and toggle or between the toggle and pump?

 

5) I plan on mounting both toggles on the deck of my kayak - probably on the small storage compartment area that lies between your feet/knees. I had luck doing this with the FF. I then plan on running the wire for the tank from the toggle back to the deck behind my seat (where the cooler would be carried). Where I exit the inside of the hull - is there an easy way to do this? A grommet or something that would hold the wires and keep water out? Or just drill and silicone? Also, would the be the ideal place to install a quick (dis)connect so when I don't carry the cooler - I don't have wires flopping around? What is the cleanest/neatest way to achieve this?

 

Basically the intent is to have a battery power source up front that powers both the FF and the livewell. At any point, I should be able to run either, both or neither by the flip of a switch. I should also be able to pull the tank and disconnect from the system.

 

Keep in mind, the kayak sees BOTH fresh and saltwater action so I am concerned about possible corrosion to any external connection points (that can't be coated or shrink wrapped).

 

Ideas?

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personally, I think you should go with 2 batteries. use quick disconnect fittings on your wires for the bilge pump to the second battery that's stored in the hull. when you're not using the livewell you don't need to bring the extra battery.

 

 

as for fuses- people will always debate it, but a friend of mine who's an electrician put it this way: "You're in a plastic boat. you have wires laying on that plastic. if something should happen and you get a short, those wires are gonna melt through that plastic like a hot knife through butter."

better to be safe than sorry.

 

 

for # 5 you want something similar to 31CQZ26XBSL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

 

you can find them at any auto parts or trailer store. they will be in the trailer wiring section.

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Anthony is right go with two seperat batterys. For the pump get a 6 volt battery. I know it's 12 volts. Running it at 6volts will give you a longer run time with less flow. You don't need to be pumping 500gpm threw your well. Where will all that water go?

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Kind of stuck on the 12v/7amp battery (as in already ordered). Figured it would handle both operations easily.

 

I understand that the livewell doens't need 500 gph flow but I have two options: 1) I will use the on/off toggle to periodically recirculate the water. IE, it won't be running constantly. 2) I can, in theory, pinch the hose - thereby restriction flow and I believe not requiring more juice.

 

Also, the drainage hole will only allow the water level to get so high - then it simply will spill out through the thru-hull drain and out of the kayak. IE - I will never have too much water. But basically, with the 500 gph, I understand I am circulating more water than I really need to.

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Intake is via a 3/4" hose - discharge out of tank/cooler is via a 1.5" thru-hull peice. I also a have a secondary drain (slightly higher than the first) - but it's only 3/4". Will be used when/if I want to utilize the tank to recirculate water within the tank (not pulling from outside source). Point being, as it is now - water will be coming in through a 3/4" hose via the bilge. It will be exiting through one 1.5" hole - with a secondary point of exit via another 3/4" fitting.

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i'm sure if you talk to someone experienced in small electronics, they could tell you what type of diode/voltage regulater/ etc, that you could add inline to drop down the power going to the pump.

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You need to go over to Kayak fishing stuff's Message board. Go to the NJ forum and ask for Ken L.

 

He is very adept with electronics, batteries, and their uses and limitations on kayaks.

 

Tell him Awiess, Carl 4x4, and Shipwreck sent you, he will give you more infor than you may ever need. He is one of a kind.wink.gif

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Shipwreck, it was actually Ken L who initially responded to my similar thread over there. I did just repost and tell him you all said hello.

 

The resistor idea is a good one, except the byproduct is heat (how it limits power). Doubtful it would be enough to cause any damage but why risk it when you don't have to. It also eats up power from the battery.

 

Anyhow, it seems the most logical path is to limit flow from the pump to the cooler. With the discharge line from the pump being 3/4" and my thru hull peice into the cooler/tank being 3/4", if I either crimp the line or install a couple 3/4" x 1/2" (or smaller) couplings, this should slow down the flow. It will also draw less power. I can still cycle the power on and off but I won't HAVE to.

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You could use a marine grade reostat. I've done a lot of 12 wiring for motorcycles and have used various types of flow reducing switches to modulate power drain to the electrical sys.

I would suggest 14ga stranded wire (much more efficient at flowing current than 18ga.) and marine grade connectors for your power supply hook up. Your ff uses about 500 miliamps to run, that's nothing for your battery set up. Basically, wire the hot to your fused switch pannel and work your accessories independently off the fused pannel. Fuse each component independently, depending on the load and your wiring should be safe from overload. They sell all this stuff at boaters world and similar places, Homies aint the place to go for a salt set up.

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The resistor idea is a good one, except the byproduct is heat (how it limits power). Doubtful it would be enough to cause any damage but why risk it when you don't have to. It also eats up power from the battery.

 

I agree. A resistor is nothing but wasteful in this application.

 

View PostAnyhow, it seems the most logical path is to limit flow from the pump to the cooler. With the discharge line from the pump being 3/4" and my thru hull peice into the cooler/tank being 3/4", if I either crimp the line or install a couple 3/4" x 1/2" (or smaller) couplings, this should slow down the flow. It will also draw less power. I can still cycle the power on and off but I won't HAVE to.

 

Instead of the manual toggle switch I would use a live well timer switch. This will control the cycling of the pump for you which means one less thing to worry about while fishing.

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I like the idea of a seperate battery for the livewell and I would have the battery ,switch, and all the wiring atached to the livewell so when you lift it out everything comes with it. Check out the timer switches that Cabelas sells. Thats what I have on the livewell in my power boat. They work great. They turn the pump on every 3 minutes for 30 seconds.

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Was going to mount seperate switches on console - one for the FF and one for the livewell - but after getting this battery (via Cabellas), I think I am changing it up. It is damn heavy. Probably twice that of what I currently have. So, in order to avoid the added weight up front and in order to avoid having to cut more holes and run more wire, I am just going to keep my current FF setup (run via the small battery upfront) and then direct mount the new 12v to the tank in back. This way, everything is one single unit and can be easily removed when not in use. This will also allevaite ANY real issues with numerous connections and long wire lenth (let alone new cuts into the kayak). Not what I originally wanted to do as I was leaning to a nice little control panel setup, but functionally, this should work better and reduce any risks for future issues.

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