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Ted Pietz

Paint adhesion?

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Hi,

Is there a fail safe "method" to painting a bare wood plug and not have to worry about lifting, peeling and all the rest of the problems we often hear about?

Thanks.

Ted

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I know that this is probably sacrilegious on this site, but I don't sand any higher than 100 grit. After sealing the surface still holds the primer very well (i dip the plugs twice in an oil based primer sealer) and then use rattle cans. I feel that the paint has something to grip. I'm not looking to get very fancy with the air brush...plus I suck at it unless it's a single color dealcwm27.gif! Of course you MUST observe drying times...sealer 3 days minimum in a dehumidified area...primer 3 or more days before paint in the same area. This does not mean that the finish will not get beat up...but I've only had water based air brushed paint peel once the epoxy has been sacrificed, never rattle can paint.

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I been rattle cans until this point. Going to dust off the airbrush and see how that goes. I like rattles, but there is so much paint loss to overspray it makes my wallet sad frown.gif

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fishdoc, I'm right behind you on that one! Never go under 120 on bare wood, especially with AYC, makes it too slick for paint to grip. Good coat of primer, not thinned and sprayed on with an automotive spray gun will make it smooth as glass. Scuff with 3M maroon pads and do the finish coats, awesome mechanical bond, and keep the primer and paint of the same type and you will get chemical bond too, thats the magic. Back in the day it was raw pine, oil primer and oil paint, tough as nails. Try to sand the paint off an old gibbs plug, see how it sticks.

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View Postfishdoc, I'm right behind you on that one! Never go under 120 on bare wood, especially with AYC, makes it too slick for paint to grip. Good coat of primer, not thinned and sprayed on with an automotive spray gun will make it smooth as glass. Scuff with 3M maroon pads and do the finish coats, awesome mechanical bond, and keep the primer and paint of the same type and you will get chemical bond too, thats the magic. Back in the day it was raw pine, oil primer and oil paint, tough as nails. Try to sand the paint off an old gibbs plug, see how it sticks.

 

 

 

Count me in on this school as well... #120 is as fine as I sand bare wood... ,,Zinsser, cover stain oil based primer, which I also spray with automotive type sprayer... I still use BLO to seal, and give it 10 days, primer 2 days, paint 2 days before epoxy... no issues ever.

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Ya..didn't think about the BLO...I use val oil/odorless thinner...3 - 4 days in real dry basement. I'm cwm31.gif to use BLO...I have a tendency to leave things where they hit the deck and then do a clean up when I can't get around any longercwm27.gif..my wife comments on that daily...LMAO! I can just picture me torching the house! Talk about pissing her offbiggrin.gifcwm31.gifcwm27.gif!

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What brand paint?

 

View PostCount me in on this school as well... #120 is as fine as I sand bare wood... ,,Zinsser, cover stain oil based primer, which I also spray with automotive type sprayer... I still use BLO to seal, and give it 10 days, primer 2 days, paint 2 days before epoxy... no issues ever.

 

 

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one shot with 150 grit

one shot with 220 after all drilling is complete

________________________________________ ___________________________

 

Oil - oil base sealer ex ( blo/ms)

oil base primer

oil base paint proper dry times with all three

top coat ?? preference

 

Water- spar varnish

H20 primer ( water base )

createx (water base )

top coat ?? preference

 

 

epoxy hot plug dip in epoxy re drill

Acrylic or epoxy base enamel primer

Acrylic or epoxy base enamel or automotive paint

Top coat Epoxy (pretty much turning wood into plastic )

 

there are many other ways these are three that are very common

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View Postpigmented epoxy over bare wood.

 

 

 

What you think pigment yourself with some of the pigments from craft store? Sounds like a fun simple idea. I cant remember which brand this pigment was I was checking out.

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