BrooklynFly Posted November 14, 2008 Report Share Posted November 14, 2008 Hi. Been trolling the lure building forum for awhile-some GREAT info here. Here's my question: Minwax-for those who use this:do y'all use the Lacquer Sanding Sealer, or the Sanding sealer in the yellow can? What's the diff? VS Now you can read my long winded intro below if you care . Thinking of painting some plug kits next season-cause lord knows I don't have enough plugs already . I love tinkering, and tying flies and teasers so I think I'll like plug painting. Would love to do this over the winter-but I'm a city a dweller, and will have to work outside on our deck. I'm figuring I'll do this once it starts to warm up in spring. But I want to start thinking about the process now and procure the materials over the winter. I've got some kits in mind to start with-they're AYC pencil poppers. Yellow, white and parrot pencils need representation in my lure collection. I did some research on sealing here, and I think I may give Sanding Sealer a try. The other option is BLO/Mineral Spirits-classic process, and would take proper precautions hanging rags outside to dry. I'm thinking my process would be: Sanding sealer>BIN Shellac spray prime red can>PAint krylon rattle can>Clear coat Devcon 2 ton clear coat OR Spar varnish spray OR Minwax clear poly gloss Any tips? The great thing is I can get all the materials except the devcon at my local neighborhood HW store. And will be hittin up the graffitti shop for nozzles. I already scored a nice onion bag-even used all the onions too Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrooklynFly Posted November 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 Anyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GattaFish Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 I am surprised too ,, with all the so called pro's out there,,,,, I have never used the sanding sealer,, I have tried the minwax wood hardener years ago and had issues on hardwoods. Therefore I am reluctant to try any other minwax products for plugs,,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfflyfish4stripers Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 just read the instructions . forget both,those are not made for outdoor use. use Spar Urethane wich is for outdoor furniture and doors thin it down with mineral spirit 60/40 mix. since i've been using it the plugs are rock hard.you can also use thinned etex or 2 ton epoxy with denatured alcohol. for me the spar urethane is the way to go. if i want some plugs whith extra strength i'll use thinned etex. good luck In order for you to be respected you have to respect yourself first.Be thankful for everything you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeedFish Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 just read the instructions . forget both,those are not made for outdoor use. use Spar Urethane wich is for outdoor furniture and doors thin it down with mineral spirit 60/40 mix. since i've been using it the plugs are rock hard.you can also use thinned etex or 2 ton epoxy with denatured alcohol. for me the spar urethane is the way to go. if i want some plugs whith extra strength i'll use thinned etex. good luck Your using the spary urethane as a sealer? Ditch TrollNovice Plug Builder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfflyfish4stripers Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane Helmsman® Spar Urethane is a specially formulated protective clear finish for exterior or interior wood that is exposed to sunlight, water, or temperature changes. It contains UV blockers to reduce the sun's graying and fading effects. Helmsman® Spar Urethane forms a protective barrier against rain and moisture and its special oils allow the finish to expand and contract with the wood as seasons and temperatures change. Helmsman® Spar Urethane is not recommended for use on floors. this is it. In order for you to be respected you have to respect yourself first.Be thankful for everything you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfflyfish4stripers Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 Your using the spary urethane as a sealer? remember,spar urethane its not for floors. i wasn't so lucky with the thinned BLO and it takes too darn loong to dry. with this method you prime today,put the plugs expose to good air flow or nice dry place and the next day ready for light sanding.i like to dip them for about 5 minutes and let the wood suck it in.once they dry the next day i do it again and thats it.give them a day or two,light sand then ready to prime them, with this method i don't have to worry about the primer sticking or oily surfaces.try it and compare with whatever method you're doing now and you'll see. i first started with 60/40 mix but i find it better at 70/30.warm up the plugs for a few minutes and take them for a bath for 5 minutes. In order for you to be respected you have to respect yourself first.Be thankful for everything you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrooklynFly Posted November 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 Thanks surfflyfish4stripers. You buy the gloss, semi gloss or stain of the helmsman? Anyone else on BLO alternatives?-Sanding sealer or Spar varnish as a sealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stripercrazy Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 I've never tried either one....interesting...I used val oil/ms and boiled linseed oil/ms...they both work good...I'm thinking the blo/ms gets in better I wait like a month it seems thinner so far it hasn't jelled up like val oil... follower of rev Darryl Strawberry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etch a sketch Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 not a so called pro buy any means, but i use deft laquer sanding sealer, dries in 30 mins, sands so easy, second coat dip, let dry, prime and go, use krylon fusion, sticks nice to the surface, learned this from 2 of the worlds best muskie pro builders, good enough for me then , , and after mr pike/mr musky chew through your 3 or 4 coats of epoxy top coat , your bait is still good to go Etch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin5 Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 I seal my plugs with Sanding Sealer as well, but I do not remember the brand name, somthing Heritage? I like it cause it dries/cures quick. What you do with your time is more important than the amount of time you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steel Pulse Posted November 16, 2008 Report Share Posted November 16, 2008 clear satin is what you want. what's the secret word for tonight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winch Posted November 17, 2008 Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 I am surprised too ,, with all the so called pro's out there,,,,, I have never used the sanding sealer,, I have tried the minwax wood hardener years ago and had issues on hardwoods. Therefore I am reluctant to try any other minwax products for plugs,,, Would it be fair for us to comment on a product we have never used????? Sometimes you guys actually have to try and experiment and see what works and what doesn't. Too many of you think we have all the answers and the methods we use are all the same. Instead you need to test and find out what will fit your needs. Many of us builders are friends and talk a lot behind the scenes. Yet we use completely different ways to build, seal and finish our plugs. Experimenting is always good I myself will sometimes build plugs to fail just to test your theories. There is always new products or other things that are readily available in your area that we can not get. You tinkering and testing will make you a better plug builder than someone giving you a "Oh yes it will work" generic answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete F Posted November 17, 2008 Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 I will give you the total sum of my knowledge on those miniwax products. One is in a black can and one is in a yellow can. But I will tell you what I did last year, that was different from the year before and will be different from next year, maybe. Last year I used two sealers. Miniwax polyacrylic Zar sanding sealer In both cases I used a spray can primer over it then sprayed with rattle cans then epoxy one of the 50 in one types or sometimes just clear rattlecan Then I fished them or gave them away. Of course the one I caught the biggest fish on was plain white and no epoxy. I think that proves "fish don't care what the finish is" at least for me. Good luck and have fun "Plugs There are about 4,000,000 of these on the market. Not really, but that's just the way it seems(and some guy invented 3 more while I was writing this sentence)from How To Catch Salt Water Fish by Bill Wisner published in1955 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrooklynFly Posted November 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2008 Thanks guys, for the info. So I ordered 1/2 doz Salty's pencil kits to start with. May try some needles too. For the sealer, it might just come down to picking up whatever my corner HW store has in stock and is economical, whether it's sanding sealer, Spar varnish, BLO etc.. Can't wait for the spring to start painting these-only about 5 mos away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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