5 minute epoxy for rod repair?

[Seal]

I've noticed some cracks in the clear epoxy on one of my rods. Will this "Devcon 5 minute epoxy" make a good repair? Doesn't need to be especially pretty, just tough.

 

I did a search and found a bunch of posts about using this stuff for plugs but not rods.

 

 

[foxfai]

These things are really tough. Once it goes on, it will never come off.

[firstlite]

5 minute epoxy is not waterproof.....use flexcoat. aftcoat..etc

 

Guderod makes a one part..you can try..

[theshadow]

put this in the Rod Building forum and you'll get the real poop.I wouldn't use it,it will yellow and is brittle.do it once do it right.

[TACKLE JUNKIE]

Will this "Devcon 5 minute epoxy" make a good repair?

 

No. It's brittle and won't flex with the rod, as mentioned it's not waterproof and Sunlight will deteriorate it rather quickly.

[tpoliti]

Capper, where are the cracks??? If it's little cracks along the guide feet, it's not the end of the world and whatever you put on it will do the same thing.

[Heavy Hooksetter]

Capper, where are the cracks??? If it's little cracks along the guide feet, it's not the end of the world and whatever you put on it will do the same thing.

 

what he said Capper,I am not sure about the 5 min epoxy being wateproof but the 30 min I have is.

 

it is waaay too brittle and will chip of!

 

as stated those stress cracks will appear again even if you re wrap the guides.

 

thats a badge of battle,sort of like scars.any rod with guides will do it.

 

there is no way around it.

 

 

best thing ya can do is keep on slinging your plugs!

 

 

H-H

[Seal]

Yeah, it's got those little stress cracks by the guides, which I'm not too worried about....

 

But it also has a crack at the ferule. The crack appears to just be in the epoxy and not the rod blank itself, but I'm worried that it might weaken that area of the rod and cause it to break eventually?????

 

I think it probably cracked due to the the several occasions when I've snagged something behind me when casting ...I'm rather amazed that the rod itself hasn't broken, since on a couple of these occasions, I was casting hard enough to snap 50# leader material.

[finchaser]

leave them they won't hurt anything, there in the finish not the blank

[Seal]

Cool.

 

So is the wrapping/epoxy at the ferrule just decorative, and not there for strength?

[canyondiver]

Cool.

 

So is the wrapping/epoxy at the ferrule just decorative, and not there for strength?

 

That is for extra strength.

Do you have a photo of the crack we can see?

[Seal]

I kinda forgot about this until now.

 

Best I can do at the moment is a camera phone so the quality is horrible, but it at least gives you an idea...It's the top half of the rod and the crack is just in the epoxy, exposing the wraps.

 

You can see by the light coloring that the epoxy has sort of lifted up around the crack, creating a space between it and the wraps. And I'm afraid it'll keep going if I don't seal it somehow.

 

Would nail polish seal it?

 

[Gundalba]

You probably want to use waterproof, thin penetrating kind of epoxy but even with that I doubt it will stop the propagation of gap as;

1. Even the most thin epoxy may not reach in completely

2. The gap is probably contaminated by now significantly reducing adhesion.

 

I would just peel it off completely then re-wrap and epoxy.

 

Cheers,

[canyondiver]

Scuff with a green Scotchbrite pad till the wrap it completely dull, wipe with denatured alcohol, dab the dust and lint gently with a rolled up length of masking tape and put a light coat of Flex Coat High Build on the wrap.

You can rotate it by hand every few minutes for several hours, or use a drying motor. DO NOT use Rod Builders Epoxy from Flex Coat, it is the adhesive, and is not for finishing wraps.

A small kit is relatively inexpensive, and IIRC, they make a little squeeze pack (like mustard and mayo) kit for spot repairs. You just mix the whole packet of each part and you are good to go.

Be sure to mix for three minutes and then pour the stuff out on a doubled sheet of tin foil wrapped over a small paper plate. This will increase the working time by a TON, like from 7 min to 30 or so for a big cup full.

Once you get the finish on the wrap, you can use the heat of a flame NOT THE FLAME (I used to use a small blow torch when I used Flex Coat) to get it to flow really evenly and get all the micro bubbles to rise to the surface and pop. You can also blow on the bubbles with a drinking straw, as the carbon dioxide in your breath causes them to burst. However, I didn't find this really successful for micro bubble removal. What did work well, was to pour the finish on the foil, wait a few minutes, torch (heat only) lightly to pop the bubbles and lower the viscosity of the finish temporarily. This let any micro bubbles float out and burst.

Now I use A couple of low viscosity finishes (Threadmaster Lite and Aftcote) and find no problems with micro bubbles. I had switched to Clemens Crystal Coat from Flex Coat for many many years and loved it, but the finish does dry out and shrink over the years, so it can create windows around guide feet if you use color preserver. I stopped using CP years ago as well

Anyhow, you can see that there are endless ways to skin a cat, and most all of them work, but do stay away from fast setting epoxies and in general, adhesives, for finishing your wraps. What we want to use, are typically termed, "Casting Resins"

 

Tight lines,

John Chase

[Seal]

I finally remembered to get some of that high build stuff.

 

Just finished doing the rod.

Thanks for the info.