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Waterproofing a reel

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What is the best way to "waterproof†an otherwise non-waterproof reel? The conditions will be prolonged full submerged operation not the occasional dunk. I know the obvious options buy a VS for $$$$$$ or a Neptune for $$. However, I am psychologically linked to the old style coffee grinder, bucket of bolts, drilled out, bullet proof bailess reels having used a Crack 300 in very difficult conditions up to last year. Sad to say the Crack (had the flyer and main shaft sealed by the Surfcaster) is giving up the ghost crying.gif and I am hesitant to have it rebuilt/rehabbed again. So, can a 706Z be adequately waterproofed to survive?

 

I am working on two assumptions;

1. That the primary entry point for water is around the main shaft.

2. That the average Penn 706Z can easily have the gear case sealed with the exception of the main shaft.

 

From my point of view the water will impact reel in two areas and in two ways.

 

Short Term

1. Water on the drag washers can decrease drag performance, and

2. Water intrusion into the gear case can displace the lubricant.

 

Long Term

1. Corrosion of the drag washer stack, and

2. Corrosion of the internal workings particularly the bearings.

 

Can anyone seal a 706Z the way my Crack was sealed?

What other options other than $$$$$$ or $$ do I have? wink.gif

 

Fred B

 

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Only one way that has worked for me. Get the blue marine grease for a marine/boating supply store. Pack the entire gear case and shaft etc with the blue stuff. It shoud be squishing out the sides when you screw the plate back on. The reel will feel a bit tight, but loosens up some with use. Not the same as the VS, but should make it nearly waterproof.

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probably, I was there. The prolonged surbmersion thing is the one aspect that makes most reels come to a grinding halt. Maybe not the first trip, maybe not the second. I sold most of my reels a few yrs ago, all the "skirted spool" kind that were ok for high n dry style fishing. The "blue grease squeeze" has been the only way I've kept my 704's and 706 from being sold too. BTW, you can probably pick up a used crack in the $100-$150 range, maybe cheaper. Once in a while I still see em for sale.

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Fred, agreed 100%--I've kept a greenie 704 going thru dunkings and sand baths for a long time, and am well into the second decade with a Z--I use the grease that they sell in the Surfcaster catalog---supposedly it's waterproof and designed to grease offshore oil drilling rigs. I also drilled out the cup on the 704s--as I'm sure you know, the 706 comes pre-drilled. Lots of the shops here use the blue grease in their repairs and servicing.

 

IMO, the 704 and 706 can take a brief dunking, like you might do to wash away some sand in the cup betwen the spool, without a problem. If it spent a lot of time under water, I would think you might have to clean and re-pack it regularly--I'm at the point now where I can break the thing down, clean eveyrthing and re-assemble and re-pack it inside of a half hour.

 

I also am of the opinion that the drag performs well when it gets wet--never had a problem with it. In fact, I knbow more than one guy who has replaced the Rulon washers in a VS with the HT-100 ones from Penn--the 704/706 is a perfect fit for the 200 and 250 size VS.

 

 

J&H in Oakdale usually has a used Crack or Luxor in the case---around $100 to $130 depending on condition.

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Ditch Jigger,

 

Sorry, I'm still too new to surfcasting redface.gif ;What is the Luxor and Crack reels you were talking about? Are they compareble to the Penn 7xx series?

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Guys:

 

Doesn't filling the gear housing with blue grease affect the performance of the dog(Anti-reverse)mechanism?

 

I have seen overgreased conventional reels go backwards due to the dog hanging up.

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50, the Luxor was probably the first spinning reel imported to the US--it was made in France. I think the actual design goes back to the 1930s. It is a hugh, old fashioned cupped spool reel with a heavy duty gear train. They became popular after the war, and were the staple of the Montauk crowd for a lot of years. Most guys converted them to a manual pick-up by removing the bail arm, and many drilled out the rotor cup so that water would drain so the reel could function after a dunking. They originally came in 100, 200 and 300 sizes (roughly equivalent to today's van staal reels in the corresponding sizes) but the big Luxor 300 was the popular choice. For some reason, they weren't as popular in the circles my father hung around in up in New England when I grew up as they were in New York--the Mitchells (another classic French brand of reel) were the spinning reels of choice up there.

 

Sometime in the 1960s or 1970s, if I have my facts straight, the Luxor became the Crack--I don't know if the manufacturer, distributor or the US importer was to blame for the name change--but they are basicallly the same reel. There are cosmetic differences, some spools have holes drilled in the top, others don't. Some (especially the original Luxors) are black, some are grey, and some have a greenish cast to them. I have had several apart, and never noticed any internal differences.

 

They did have a few problem areas--the screws used in the reeel are fragile and tend to snap when you try to loosen them. The spool knob is a big wing nut and loose line can find it's way under it on a windy night--I shuddder to imagine braid on one frown.gif And did I mention they were heavy? The Surfcaster basically went around scarfing up parts and now seems to be the only source of readily available parts, and he will not ship you even a spare screw--you must ship the reel to him for any part, however minor. Some worthwhile modifications to one are his "customizing" (drilling and sealing) for underwater use, replacing the stock main bearing with his stainless steel one and replaceing the stock line roller, which is prone to grooving, with either his hardened one or a Penn roller. The stock drag washers are pretty mediocre, but again, guess what ones will fit? wink.gif Did I hear you say Penn? Or, at least the fiber ones will if not the metal ones.

 

Prefessa, I haven't had any problems with my 704 anti-reverse dogs that I can recall. If anything, packing the housing quiets it down temporarliy. The dog will eventually displace the grease and become annoyingly (to some anyway, but not to me) loud.

 

[This message has been edited by Ditch Jigger (edited 03-22-2000).]

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Fred, thats an interesting thought. Where do you think the excess grease will be forced to escape through(the pressure is gonna force the grease to go somewhere).

 

Frank

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just the thread i was looking for... picked up a slotted luxor 300 as a montauk backup and i was looking into how to "waterproof it"

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11 hours ago, GarbageFish said:

just the thread i was looking for... picked up a slotted luxor 300 as a montauk backup and i was looking into how to "waterproof it"

Make sure the bearings have been changed to stainless. They are steel from the factory

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4 hours ago, SC said:

Make sure the bearings have been changed to stainless. They are steel from the factory

how do you size up bearings and washers on older reels like Luxors pennZs and Greenies?

 

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

20 mins ago, GarbageFish said:

how do you size up bearings and washers on older reels like Luxors pennZs and Greenies?

 

 

The Crack/Luxor bearings were removed usually with an arbor press. There were many who did this as a side hustle. The Surfcaster used to as well. The Penn were already stainless. I assume the bearings had a Timken # for cross-referencing

Edited by SC

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