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Gundalba

Rings

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Conoflex Nevada 13, Abu 6500/5500 w/ 30-50# braids

 

20-16-16-12-12-10-10-10-10+10Tip

 

20 through 12 : MNSG

10's : T(L)NSG ----> What's diff. between L and no L?

Tip : ICMNST

 

Any thoughts?biggrin.gif

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Gundalaba,

 

If you double up on the larger sizes like 16 and 12 before you get to your last intermediate guides where it is std to double or triple up on you may find you get poor line flow down the blank. When you squint down the guides you should see concentric circles ,whole ones. If not it aint so good.

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The L stands for Light. T (Titanium) L ( Light) N (frame style) S (Sic Ring) G (Guide)

 

Kinda guessed it but good to know for sure.Thanks!

 

Gundalaba,

If you double up on the larger sizes like 16 and 12 before you get to your last intermediate guides where it is std to double or triple up on you may find you get poor line flow down the blank. When you squint down the guides you should see concentric circles ,whole ones. If not it aint so good.

 

 

Mike,

Thanks, I am just bouncing ideas now.

From a Florida forum, I saw some guy at Hawaii did some interesting thing on the same rod. I think he was aiming at making the tip section as light as possilbe - also more tangle free - to get the crisp tip action.

He was also taking advantage on thiner and limber braid line characteristics as well.

Not sure if it really helped on distance but he used very small Ti guides closer to the tip and Ti concept tip. See below for the ones he used.

Probably I am not considering over all dynamics of the rod yet I think this also helps for the conventional setup to keep the line close to the rod as well....

 

fuji-ldb.png

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