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Which Newell reel?

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What would you guys say the best model for chunking is? I have compared newells and abu's and I think I like the newells better for throwing bigger chunks. My only question is which model is best liked ? Thanks in advance

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I use the Newell P229 and love it, but I also use the Abu 700c3, I have two of them and the Penn Squidder.....love to interchange and have back-ups....

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It really depends on your situation. I have a 229 and a 235 for situations where I need a little extra line. I normally fish 20# premiuum mono as the main line. My buddy uses a couple 220s for the same situation. I prefer the extra line (220=roughly 200yds of 20#, 229=290yds, 235=350yds)in case I hook something really large. Of course, I tell him its because he can't cast as far.biggrin.gif

 

You can also cast the 300 series Newell reels, but they are larger in diameter and not quite as comfortable. Since they have the exact same drag as the 200 series, stick with the 200 series unless you need a lot 30 lbs mono. The 229 is the most popular.

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When I bait fished, I and the guys I fished with used to use Newell 344-5's packed with Trilene 30# line.

 

Spigola

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Gowith the 229, I have 2 of them and just bought a 3rd.. I use them for chuncking and plugging.... And less birds nest with the narrower spool. I use 65lb power pro. with no problems....They are used on a 10 & 11 ft rod.

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P332 Newell-heart.gif

Aluminum spool, aluminum bars, bearing adjusters on both sides,available in 3.6:1 or 5:1 gear ratios,can be magged using Lee Valley cups and 1/4x 1/8 magnets.

Marc

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Have 2 P-220-F's. Wonder if these can be magged? Haven't looked inside yet. Any rooom?

 

 

Yes! But if you want to use the Lee Valley cups you can't use the 1/4"x1/4" Lee Valley Magnets because the fins on the clicker side of the Newell spool are much deeper than those on the Squidder. Magnets are available that are 1/4"x1/8" from other suppliers on the net. You put one Dubro 440 flat washer available from any model airplane store as a shim under the magnet and you are good to go.wink.gif

Marc

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i recently magged my newell p229f. i couldnt make the cups work. just not enough clearance with the p229f on either the clicker or opposite side. from what i could tell the maximum height of the magnet and any spacer needs to be under 0.150" for the p229f. its probably a little more than that but based on the tests i ran anything under that seemed to be ok (ran a few tests where i exceeded .150-160" and i thought i could start to hear problems ... although nothing that actually caused any collisions).

 

i ended up using #6 washers on the non-clicker side (super-glue) and lee valley 1/4" diameter by 1/10" height magnets. washers are approx. 0.040" thickness (i had to look around a little to find some that thickness. home depot sells Hillman #6 SAE flat washers and that is what i used. i filed the rough side down a bit to decrease their thickness just a little and flatten.). in any case... i tried to keep the overall height under 0.140".

 

i chose the non-clicker side simply because there seemed to be more room to work with and i could get the magnets closer together. also on the non-clicker side you have what looks to be stainless steel. you can run a few tests here without glueing anything down. the magnets will stick to the plate (not real tight but enough)... then just stack a washer on top of the magnet and reassemble and spin to see if everything fits... when you have what you think you want, take everything out and glue the washers down in the same spot.

 

i should add that i used #6 size washers because i thought i might want to use 0.375" dia (also 0.100" height) magnets. still playing with things to see what the right combination of magnets is. if u go just with 0.250" dia mags then u could use smaller washers.

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i recently magged my newell p229f. i couldnt make the cups work. just not enough clearance with the p229f on either the clicker or opposite side.

 

Hi Goblue!

Wish I had a digital camera-I use the small cups (1/4") and install them on the clicker side. I rough up the base of the cup and use a very thin coat of 24 hr epoxy that I warm to thin it out in order to achieve the lowest profile (no glue build up) . Allowing for a little side play I use the bearing adjusters and favor the right side with the spool.

 

I haven't found the need to do this but if you just get a tick of interference I guess you could grind the base of the cup to shorten the profile.

 

My problem has been trying to remove the 1/8" deep magnet from the cup once it is installed as there is almost no lip to grab on to.

Marc

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Go to your local B&T and put a reel on the rod and see which one fits your hand best. A smaller hand may have trouble spooling line manually, on a wider spool. IMHO all the magnet additions are not needed especially if you are chunking.

Steve

PS 235

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