Penn 9 Repair Question

[opaulb]

I should have know better. I took the Penn 9 I bought off ebay apart to clean and now I cannot figure how to re-install the dog spring (a small L-shaped copper piece).

The reel looked good but when cranking the level wind would always be stiff near the end of the spool.

I believe the leather drag washer or others could be sticking?

Any recommended repair shops near Raleigh, NC? Thanks.

[Angler #1]

I would recommend you pick up a schematic of any boat reel by Penn or go to the Webb site for Penn as most of the anti reverse dogs get assembled in the same manner.

 

I would replace the leather drags at the same time as long as you have a mike and you keep the stack at the same height you can use the newer washers.

 

You might try going into back history to see if a schematic was posted

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[gadabout]

I should have know better. I took the Penn 9 I bought off ebay apart to clean and now I cannot figure how to re-install the dog spring (a small L-shaped copper piece).

The reel looked good but when cranking the level wind would always be stiff near the end of the spool.

I believe the leather drag washer or others could be sticking?

Any recommended repair shops near Raleigh, NC? Thanks.

 

 

Hang in there you'll get it! I took my No. 9 apart when I was eleven years old and it took me all day to get it back together. But after that, I was fearless.

 

Here's a link to a schematic for the No. 9 if you don't already have it.

 

The dog itself pivots on one of the four screws that hold the bridge assembly in place. The dog spring gets sort of wedged in so that it puts spring pressure on the dog, pushing it against the ratchets. The trick to all this is to be able to hold all of this together without the 4 screws dropping out. It's a bit hard to describe in words, but you'll wish you had 5 hands while doing this. Also, note that two of the four screws are theaded the full length and the other two are only threaded on the end. The partially threaded screws go through the upper two holes where they go through two coil springs and the yoke. The threaded screws go in the bottom holes, with one of them going through the dog.

 

Give it another try and post again if you need more help.

[Steve H.C.]

Opaulb,

I'll try to explain as simply as possible. The only screw you have to be concerned with initially is the full threaded screw that holds the dog in place. That screw is the one which sits nearest and lowest using you as the reference point. Depress the pinion yoke with your left thumb. Place the bridge assembly with the drags and main gear into the vacant area where the handle would make up with the gear stud. Set up the main gear and pinion gear so they are going to mesh, while youhave the base of the bridge plate swung away from where the anti-reverse dog is. Now take that screw (full threads) and put it up through that hole and place the anti-reverse dog mated up to that screw. Position the dog so the flat side is away from the main gear. Mesh the dog up against the base of the gear stop. It should fill the gear evenly. Now take the copper spring and wedge it into the void in the sideplate and wrap it around the outside of that screw holding the dog. The copper spring rests flat against the flat side of the dog. Use a little grease in that area so the spring doesn;t fly. Now swing the bridge plate assembly over the depressed pinion gear and tighten down that screw. Take the other screws and place them in their holes. If you can't line them up use a tooth pick or finishing nail to get the yoke assembly spring and bridge assembly lined up so you can send them home. Before any further assembly, take the gear stud where it comes out of the sideplate and turn it. The stud should turn freely in free spool, and now place it in gear and turn, making sure that it will not turn backwards. That will test if you placed the anti reverse dog in the base of the gear properly. If you don't get it the first time try again. It takes some technique, but if I can do it anyone can. You will get it! Once done you will be able to tear down any old school Penn reel. I never forgot my first dance with this type of reel.

Good Luck,

Steve

PS Hope that helps, and if you need some help through a rough spot give a yell.

[opaulb]

Thanks! I believe I am all set to go. I'll order new washers for the drag and maybe even order a new dog spring. I really appreciate the help. I'll let you kow how it turns out.

 

Got my ebay squidder in the mail today! This should be fun !

[Steve H.C.]

Squidder mania seems to be in full force. It is something when a reel gets discontinued and alot of guys clamor for them as though the holy grail was just lost (might be a good marketing tool). It is a good reel with alot of history, but guys are going to find out that it is a tough reel to learn on, and if you are not a patient type, or have the time to practice the reel will most likely sit idle till it finds it's way to auction. I wouldn't worry about finding one, because there will always be many for sale.

Steve

PS I will never sell mine. One of the few times I will say "never".

[opaulb]

Learning curves apply to just about everything. Taking reels apart, putting them back together, preventing backlash, etc. Goes with enjoying fishing, the sport and the tackle. Ebay has no shortage for whatever your interest. As long as there is an ebay there will be people looking for a piece of history.

[Steve H.C.]

OPaulB,

Couldn't agree more. Love learning new things.

Steve

[opaulb]

A big thanks to Steve and Gadabout. I ordered new drag washers, springs, etc. and the reel is all back together working flawlessly (at the workbench anyway).

You were right about needing a third hand, it would have come in very handy. Steve, positioning and swinging the bridge plate was the key to the puzzle. Gad, thanks for the schematic, that eased things along.

Now that is done, it's taking apart the squidder and cleaning it. Well maybe not today.