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manual bails

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I have two 704's that I have converted to bailess. The only problem that I have encountered is that every once in a while the line (power pro) will try to get up between the roller and the plate that the roller is bolted into. Anyone else encounter this??? I have tightened it, but I am reluctant to tighten it too much and put pressure on the roller.

 

Thanks

Tony

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I have two 704's that I have converted to bailess. The only problem that I have encountered is that every once in a while the line (power pro) will try to get up between the roller and the plate that the roller is bolted into. Anyone else encounter this??? I have tightened it, but I am reluctant to tighten it too much and put pressure on the roller.

 

Thanks

Tony

 

Tony, funny you should mention that, I just recieved the two conversion kits this afetrnoon. Very easy to install, took one out in the yard with a hookless plug to give it a whirl, and I noticed the same thing. The roller has a small sleeve inside that slides over the manual arm. I held the lock nut with pliars and tightened it down. It does not seem to cause any problems, the roller still moves freely. Obvously won't know if it works properly untill I give it a real workout...

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That has happened to me as well... I stopped using the conversion kits for the reason... If you take your old bail and dremel off the wire just behind the roller, you wont have the problem. make sure to also sand down the nubbin that is left so it doesnt catch your line. I did that to all my penns after noticing that the thin braided line (ie, 20 lb fireline) does get caught in the space between the roller and the housing..1 thing, youmust counter balance the other side of the reel with a washer or two to ensure you dont get any wobble...

 

It works VERY well, the line never goes between the roller any more and is actually easier for the roller to pick the line up after the cast.

 

BC

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I get the line hung up on the roller on a manual more than my bail closes. Just my experience.

 

I hate bails and have converted just about all of my reels to bailess. There's nothing worse than watching a custom plug sailing off to the horizon whan the bail pops closed and your line snaps.

 

A few things I've learned:

 

The biggest benefit to manual is that it's more braid friendly. Since I changed over to manual I haven't had a single wind knot.

 

The only time to use a bailed reel is for livelining. It can be almost impossible to get the line onto a manual bail when a fish is taking off with your bait.

 

Before you cast, turn the handle until the spool is as far out as it will go. No more catching on the bail.

 

The best (affordable) manual bail reels are the old Mitchell 386 and 496 PUM's and because of the way the bail is designed they're better with lighter braids then the Penns.

 

The manual bail kit for the 704 also is a perfect fit on a Dam Quick 550.

 

When you're pencil popping, pinch the line between the thumb and forefinger to keep just enough tension to keep the line from wrapping under the bail assembly.

 

As for getting the line on the bail before the jig hits bottom - Practice, Practice, Practice.

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Before you cast, turn the handle until the spool is as far out as it will go. No more catching on the bail.

 

 

 

 

As for getting the line on the bail before the jig hits bottom - Practice, Practice, Practice.

 

Good Advice!!!

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Before you cast, turn the handle until the spool is as far out as it will go. No more catching on the bail.

 

 

 

 

As for getting the line on the bail before the jig hits bottom - Practice, Practice, Practice.

 

I don't know about that... but... if you turn the handle (BEFORE you cast) so that it is pointing toward the butt of the rod, the inertia of your cast will not cause the handle to rotate and the line to get fouled up on the roller OR if still using a bail, will 90% stop the bail from snapping shut in mid cast. try it.

 

Good Advice!!!

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OK YOU MEATBALLS LISTEN UP.... IF YOU HAVE A 704Z AND THE BAIL CLOSES ON THE CAST THIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO:

1} SEE IF THE HANDLE IS IN THE DOWN POSITION WHEN YOU HAVE THE PICK-UP ROLLER IN THE UP POSITION READY FOR YOU TO PICKUP THE LINE WITH YOUR FINGER

2} ALSO MAKE SURE THE SPOOL IS IN THE FORWARD POSITION OR OUTWARD POSITION.

IF IT IS NOT. YOU HAVE TO FILE THE METAL WASHER UNDER THE HANDLE UNTILL IT IS!!

3} LASTLY AND MOST IMPORTANT TAKE OFF THE ROTOR CUP AND CLEAN THE RUBBER BRAKE WASHER WITH RUBBING ALCOHOL.

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