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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
Found 16 results
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While doing some gear cleaning I noticed I clousered the hell out of my top section. The lower chip is to the carbon, and maybe a fiber or two got nicked- I can’t tell without a magnifying glass. Would you all leave as is, try to float some flexcoat in there, or see about a manufacturer repair? Start shopping since it’s an inevitable snap?
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Hey, does anyone know how easily the clear coat on a rod can be refinished. One of my rods Lamiglas GSB 1321M had some of the clear coat come off over the years and I wanted to know how easily it could be repaired and what a tackle shop might run me to fix it. Thanks
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One of my rods has the cork tape coming unbuttoned. Any shops at the cape that can re wrap the tape on with short notice? I got the tape wrapped on with some thread as a quick temp fix.
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Question for the Slammer III owners. I have a 4500 and have only fished it a few times for a couple hours total. The reel has never felt right while under load. I primarily throw 3/4-2oz. lures with it and when reeling under load I have a very rhythmic knock/vibration and stutter sound. You can also feel this sound. It is worse the faster you retrieve and if reeling super super slow you can’t really notice it at all. Reeling in a 2oz. buck tail though at a decent retrieve speed will be very very noticeable. The sound and feel I can best relate to would be driving on railroad track timber’s or running a stick or pipe down a fence row. It’s very duh duh duh duh duh sounding and feeling. Think drumroll type of cadence. Off the rod and under no load the reel feels very smooth and silent other than some slight play in the handle knob. Any thoughts? I’ve heard in the past people having issues with similar symptoms. Someone mentioned a possible bad bearing? My reel was purchased new a couple months ago but is an older stock with a 2017 manufactured date.
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Hi I have a odm frontier NXFX-1166 and broke the tip off a while ago fishing from some rocks, i have replaced the tip with a oversized one and am getting allot wind knot because of it. Does anyone know the correct tip for the rod? thank you
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I was on the water this past weekend on my Hobie Revo 13, and after pedaling 40 minutes to my fishing spot, one of my turbo fin masts broke. I always carry some spare Hobie mirage drive parts in my dry bag, such as an extra gear chain, idler pulley and cable, extra stainless nuts, corresponding wrench, rudder pin, and a leatherman wave, but don't carry an extra turbo fin mast. I keep all these items in a ziploc bag in my drybag which is stored under the center hatch. Because I couldn't fish with a broken mast, I had to paddle back to my car to pick up a spare mirage drive. From now on, I plan to carry an extra mast pin in my kayak, but was wondering where the best place would be to store this. I can't keep this in my drybag as the size of the mast isn't conducive to keeping in my dry bag at all times. I'm thinking that I could keep this in a ziploc bag, and tape this under my front hatch or something but if anyone has any better suggestions, please let me know. Would rusting of the mast become a factor with permanent storage in the hull? Also, what else do you guys carry in terms of emergency repair that I may be missing? -
Reel repair gurus I need your help. So just before heading out to fish this evening, I checked my Calcutta 300 D, all was well, functioned as it should have. Fast forward 25 minutes and on the first cast the spool won't turn. The thumb bar clicks up when the handle is turned, but the gear isn't engaging the spool. Got home and gave it a quick look, but can't see anything obvious that would cause the issue. This is the second time it's happened in less than a year, sent it out to Shimano for repairs last time. Before I box it up and drop the $50 for service, is there anything that I might be able to do here to get me back in business? Thanks.
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BACKGROUND: I have 2014 9.8 Tohatsu outboard (MFS 9.8A3) with manual start and manual trim. Like an idiot, I overt-tightened the steering friction bolt (Ref 18 in the attached diagram and parts list below). The threads on the bolt were stripped smooth, so I ordered the OEM replacement (HUGE shout out to the folks at East Marine for reasonable prices and crazy fast delivery at standard shipping rates). Sadly, the new 9mm OEM bolt spun around and around. Fortunately, my mechanically-minded neighbor retapped a 3/8" hole (9.53mm) in the swivel bracket (Ref 14) which perfectly fit a 3/8" bolt. Unfortunately, the new bolt provided zero friction when fully tightened. And that's when I came across this post "MFS5B steering friction adjustment does next to nothing" and realized the issue could be the friction band -- which I THINK Tohatsu calls a "friction piece" (Ref 16). In the post, kimcrwbr1 writes that to replace the friction piece "You just need to split the swivel bracket apart you can do it on a bench. Get some good marine lithium grease and clean everything good and put it back together. It may need a new friction band you will know once you take it apart. Four bolts and the bracket should fall off the leg." QUESTION: Assuming I get the repair manual, how hard is it to split the swivel bracket, replace the friction piece, and put her all back together? Do I need any special tools other than a torque wrench? Or should I take it to a professional mechanic? (BTW: last year I was going to replace the water pump but -- when I saw the DIY clip on Youtube -- I chickened out and took it to a shop). Thanks in advance for your advice! Ed
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The Jetties in NY NPS units are fallen apart before any major storm hits this year. Any chance they will be repaired in the near future? I know fishing is not high in the priority list for them, but we do pay for our permits to use them. Soon or later, someone is going to break something fallen off those rocks. Or worse, lose their life in the process. -
Hello new to this and new to fixing my reels. Is there a way to tell what Penn I owned if the little sticker came off the reel. I fished a Luxor, a Squidder, Penn 65(?) for years many years ago.....Spinning, I only used the Luxor and Garcia Mitchells as a kid. Anytime I fixed something it ended up in a box in parts. About ten years ago I purchased a Penn (704z???), the line kept coming off the lip of the spool and I became totally frustrated. I have fished only Shimanos before and after. I fish the surf hard and I am very hard on my reels. Buying, up the food chain, from the $75-$100 range to the $250 + range. No VS for me.... So my PENN question- I recently took all old my reels and cleaned and oiled them. The baitcasters from 1960 are running true and I fished them last week. I heard good stuff about PENN so I'm buying another...I changed the line and cleaned the old penn , in parts with LTC, She rose from the dead. Got everything oiled, greased and running like a dream.. When I went to put the spool on.. I was missing the top drag knob. The label on the reel came off long ago but I'm just guessing it was a 704z since I always wanted a greeny. So anyway to tell what reel I own? Can I get that knob or new spool?
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I did a remodel in which we reduced the heated/cooled area of my home and now I'm left w holes in the trunk line from 6 smaller lines leading to the ducts. Obviously I need to get tin cut to size, and screw that on, but how can I insure the patches will be air tight? Thanks.
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I have an Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 5500-C3 reel that I recently oiled and cleaned completely. After I put it back together, i could just pull out line without pressing the button. I have monofilament on it, so it is not slipping. What should I do? -
I have a very nice Mitchell 302 from the end of 1952. Still has the sticker and everything. I have had it inspected, cleaned. repaired, and lubed once after I bought it, but was not thrilled with the work or the price. I use this reel in salt and freshwater, and it's time for another bath. I can do the spool all day, but want a pro to do the reel guts. Any recommendations?
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The ceramic insert on my favorite surf rod popped out. I still have it. Rod is a Goldberg 10' on a Perigee blank. The tip might be either hardloy or SiC, it's a gunmetal gray. Am I better off replacing the tip, which is showing some corrosion damage, or can I just superglue or Goop the insert into place and have done? I suspect that tips do flex enough so that the inserts, which are press fit, will inevitably pop free after enough use. If the tip's been work-softened enough to lose the insert again easily, then I'd better just replace the tip. BUT I don't know for sure, so thought to ask.
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Few months back I snapped the tip of my Century SS1265 rod on a blue fish. I was trying to reach for the leader and without realizing moved my rod hand towards the middle while reaching for the leader with the other, then heard that awful noise. I contacted a Century rep to see what could be done. He said we can build me a new top half which will cost me $150+ or can attach a new tip guide which will cost about $25. I believe this does not include the shipping cost. I am kind of disappointed with their warrantee because before I purchased the rod I asked many people about their warrantee and everyone pretty much said they’ll take care of me if something were to happen. For disclosure purposes this rod was bought as a second hand but was lead to believe that the warrantee would still be honored. I guess my mistake was telling the rep that I had purchased it as a second hand rod. I really didn’t think it would matter but apparently it does, rep’s own words. I purchased the rod for $225 and to pay close to 175 to get it repaired just doesn’t make any sense. What you guys think? What are my options here? Thanks in advance.
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What do you boat-owning guys do for maintenance of your boats? If there are any repairs or engine work needed, do you do it yourself or hire someone? If you do it yourself, how did you learn? Reason for my questions is I am pondering getting a boat of my own one day but concerned about the work that will be needed to maintain it, and a lack of skill on my part. Also don't have money to keep hiring someone every time something needs to be fixed, esp when buying something used. Thanks! Jay
