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What lure do you find to be your favorite or best producing plug in your bag? Perhaps it's just something you never fish without. For me it's a white darter, preferable a ss one. After a few seasons of throwing everything I got I found that nothing finds the fish quite like a white darter from a breachway. Mikes, CCW and a load of other white darters also work really well, but I just seem to always throw the white ss Darter when the fishing gets tuff or when trying to see if there's anything around, because big or small they fool them all.

Please provide some thoughts and insights into Surfcasters and tackle shops in/close to Connecticut. Thanks everyone!

It's a 2 piece 11foot Called the "bulldog" If anyone has any information on it I will greatly appreciate it Thank you

Recently I broke a 1-6 11' ODM genesis I built, it was a great rod but I'm looking for better and the unimpressive 1.5 year lifespan left a bitter taste in my mouth with ODM. I'm strongly considering a CTS vapor trail but I'd like to hear how it stacks up against other top brands. The durability of a Lamiglas is also appealing but I've never liked the floppier action they have. Anyone experienced with these brands have any advice?

I just moved down to St Augustine Florida to go to school and I'm a striper surf fisherman. I was wondering if anyone knows what kind of plugs to use down here to get on some decent fish. Maybe some tips too such as time of day to Surfcast or what to throw. I mainly throw plugs though I'm not the biggest fan of bait fishing. But any tips will be appreciated. Setup: Lamiglas carbon surf 11ft not the canal and a Van Staal vs200 Thanks

Surfcasting Spool by MV Spools for Shimano Ultegra 14000 This is an ultralight Surfcasting Spool by MV-Spools. These spools are ultralight and designed to maximize line delivery for optimal distance casting when fishing. They can also shave some serious weight off your reel and improve rotational performance when reeling in. I bought a pair to test them out but decided this product is not for me, it takes certain level of experience and expertise to use successfully. In other words they are harder to use compared to the original spools because the line just wants to jump off the spool naturally so they require more attention and practice to master. They have been barely used so if you have been wanting to test this type of spools, this is a good chance. Weights only 71 gr (As a reference, the Ultegra 14000 stock spool weights 120 gr) Compatible with most Shimano Ultegras 14000 and some Techniums. Full list of compatible models here Link CNC precision machined This is the Straight model, it is not conical or tapered Made in POM-Teflon, which has very good structural rigidity and impervious to oxidation Nice progressive carbon drag and nice clicker This particular model is the so called Type 3, designed to be used with small diameter lines. Manufacturer stated Line capacity 0.16 mm/300 yd -0.18 mm/270 yd -0.20 mm/215 yd In my tests, the real world line capacity is about 20-30% less I would recommend braid in 0.13-0.15 mm (8-15 lb test), this way you can spool about 250 yds which is plenty for a nice long cast to target say Pompano or Whiting at long range. PRICE: $24.99 per spool (Shipped within the US) I paid $35 for each shipped from Europe **I have two spools available**

Usually spend some time up in Maine at the end of July at a lake. This year we are on the coast near Portland/Freeport. Looking for Any advice for surfcasting in the area. Last week of July. Thanks!

So I have some Tax return money and considering treating myself. I currently have a pair of Carolina Cast Pro 13' 3-6 Gen1 paired with a true Surfcasting distance reels, Shimano Power Aero 14000. I know you can target Pompano with a broomstick but I love a light set-up for a swift cast and to enjoy the fight. Below are my key points. I would love opinions from rod builders or from actual experience on the rods/blanks to be recommended. -Thank you! Rod weight: I want a rod that is 15 oz max, fully built. It will be on a spike after the cast but I love light equipment for a sweet cast. Sweet spot for casting: Will cast 3-4 oz sinkers plus small bait (sandfleas/shrimp on double dropper rig). Reel: Considering a 9-10 oz reel. Daiwa Certate LT or a Shimano Stradic in 4000 size to keep the set-up light and strong Rod action: I like how my cast pro rods load, very easy and they are not stiff. As a comparison I had the Tiralejo 12' 2-6 and I did not like it, it was too stiff and I felt a recoil down my shoulder when putting some power on the cast. Targets: Will target Florida Pompano and whiting (max 5 lbs) 90% of the time but sometimes you hook a fierce Permit or Drum (8-20 lbs) Looks: I like beautifully crafted equipment, the Legend Surf and the CTS Studio Vapor trail look gorgeous online... My experience level: I am no Pro but I have been surf fishing with my 13' rods for 3-4 years now, have had a casting lesson and can get my rods to load enough for my needs. I can get 120 yds and honestly that is the max I need in the beaches I frequent.

Carolina Cast Pro 13' 3-6oz Gen 1 This rod needs no intro as it is dollar for dollar one of the best distance rods in the US market. Designed by Casting champion Tommy Farmer. Used by serious Surf Fishermen as well as commercial Fishermen along the East Coast from NC down to FL. You will be able to reach the fish when they are far out without much effort. Powerful Carbon Blank Guide Layout is Universal, meaning a Spinning or Casting reel can be used. Fuji Deluxe Reel Seat Fuji BMNAG Guides Accurately rated to 3-6 oz Great sensitivity Rod has been used lightly for a couple of seasons, it is in excellent condition. Price: $214.99 + Shipping. (Rod is located in Vero Beach, FL) I ran shipping estimates and it should be around $30 to most US East Coast locations. Will be shipped in a PVC tube, 80 in long 4-5 in diameter, package weight is 6lb.

Been trying to surf cast Popham for the past few seasons and despite great structure, current and bait, I haven’t been able to land any fish over 30”. I’m a surfcaster and only use plugs besides chucking and reeling eels sporadically with some good results. I usually fish Georgetown and do extremely well (got three 40” and over in a 3 day period last season) but haven’t done much at Popham. Anyone else surfcast here? What should I throw? Bottle plugs? Darters? Any help would be appreciated.

Surfcasting Competition Rigs Part I I recently met a Brazilian fisherman which belonged to the Brazilian national Surfcasting team (retired now but very active in the fishing realm). Surfcasting in Europe and some countries in Latin America is a huge sport, it even has an international Federation that regulates the sport and organizes world championships. Their championships are catch and release. My new friend has fished all over the world in championships and like in any sport, the techniques and innovations usually appear first in a highly competitive setting. The Surfcasting I am referring to, uses rods no shorter than 13 ft and Spinning reels like the Basia or the Technium and they use powerful casts (OTG, Pendulum) to reach considerable distances when needed. In competition you are not allowed to "wade" above your knees. So to conclude my introduction, these guys are competing for $20-30k prizes in the top competitions so they leave nothing to chance and maximize the efficiency of their rigs and consequently their catches. In no way, I am saying that what we in the US normally use is not efficient or ancient, I have not thoroughly tested any of these rigs (it will take me years), but fishing is in constant evolution and I wanted to share this information, it may change the game for some of us or at least keep us thinking in improving our fishing. Now to the topic, he has presented me rigs that are different to the famous "Pompano rigs" (partenoster, double dropper, etc.) we use here in Florida. @FishinMortician, @ZAFisher, and others have presented innovative ideas in this forum that in some ways approach the design of these competition rigs. I will first list the key features of competition Surfcasting rigs: *NOTE: line ratings will be referred to in millimeters because the pound rating we use in the US is not the same they use overseas and when they use pound rating, it is actually very precise. If a line says 15 lb, it will break very close to 15 lb, whereas in the US a line will usually break 25-40% over the advertised break strength. General rig design aspects: overall like in most efficient designs, less is more. Slick connections are a must, secure and well done. Bulky knots with protruding tag ends are a big no. Always try to use the thinner line possible without compromising safety. Rigs should be as discrete as possible to prevent spooking the fish. All materials are of the highest quality available. They favor heavily Japan made tackle: lines they use are Sunline, Varivas, PowerPro, Daiwa, hooks are Gamakatsu, etc. Rig line: monofilament 0.30, 0.50, 0.60 mm. Thickness should be matched with the sinker weight and target distance. Rig overall length should be 1.0-1.2 meters. Snoods or droppers: always fluorocarbon 0.30, 0.40, 0.50 mm. Length 40-60 cm (adjust length according to species, current, water color). In some conditions, the further the bait is from the main line the more comfortable the fish will be on biting it. A key aspect here is how the droppers are attached to the rig main line, it should be a connection with minimal friction that allows free rotation of the droppers around the rig line. At the same time, this connection should be able to hold the dropper in place (no sliding up and down) and perpendicular to the rig line, to help prevent tangles. Location and number of the droppers: one or two droppers depending on target species, abundance, current, etc. Location is variable but a starting point is to attach one dropper close to the sinker and the other above the center of the rig line. They have systems, that allow you to change the location of the attaching point of the dropper once you have figured out where in the water column the fish are biting the most. Swivels: he puts a swivel where the rig line connects to the sinker and connects the rig line to the main line/shock leader with a knot. Sinkers: they use similar sinkers to what we use but most are aerodynamic, Sputniks, pyramid and other variations all with a 5-7 cm sturdy steel tail that has a sturdy swivel incorporated. A very cool thing is that there are well established manufacturers in their countries and they all offer painted sinkers in a variety of colors. Hooks: another key aspect. They are obsessive in the hook selection. Essentially, he says one bite should be equivalent to a fish caught (i.e. Strive for 100% hook up rate). They favor Japanese hooks chemically sharpened. One high quality hook should not be used for more than 20 fish. Names of the following hooks are from Gamakatsu-Japan. He recommends “Maruseigo” hooks for Whiting/Pompano, “Chinu” hooks to target Pompano, and “Mikoshi Unagi” hooks for targeting Whiting. In general, nothing bigger than a 1/0 is needed for a whiting or a Pompano, meaning you can catch monster Pompano with a 1/0. Hooks should ALWAYS be snelled or tied with a good knot. Will post pictures later but none of these are circle hooks, they are variations of a J-hook with shapes and shank lengths that optimize the hook up and bait mounting. Mounting the bait: huge aspect. No bait, no bite. They have nifty simple tools to mount different types of bait. In essence, the bait should cover most of the hook and be firmly secured to the hook shank leaving the point and barb exposed. They always used elastic thread to secure the bait to the hook. He told me, if I don’t have my elastic thread, I won’t go fishing. Bait clips: they do use them, although they are not technically clips. They are a wire attached to the rig that holds the hook with tension. Stay put, I will post pictures of the rigs and their parts soon…

Gemini Splash Down Solo Bait Clips Purchased these clips straight from the UK some time ago but I realized I don't really need them. If you need to reach 100+ yds distances with bait, these will help you reach the fish. They work well with hooks up to size 2/0 or so. Many videos online if you need to see how they work. PRICE: $19.99 Ships from Florida via USPS 1st Class Price includes: 4 packs at 5 clips/pack. Total of 20 clips Payment via Paypal

Shimano Tiralejo 12-ft 2-6 oz Spinning TRS120MHA Bought this rod on impulse but I don't really need it. I tested it a couple times so it is virtually new. I nicked the choker guide a little bit and had it immediately repaired by my local rod builder. This is a sweet rod ideal for Surf Fishing. Key facts: Located in Florida High end C4S-HM light carbon blank Fuji BKWAG Alconite guides DPS Fuji reel seat Casts a mile! Retails for $320 PRICE: $220 + Shipping Shipping: within the US only. Shipping within Florida is very reasonable using USPS. You can also try quoting shipping to your location, Rod shipping tube is 6 lb, 6 ft long, 6 inches diameter. Payment: via Paypal as the forum requires/suggests or cash if it is a face to face transaction. Will post pictures later in the day, but just imagine a new rod, I even have the tags and the original hard tube to pack and ship.

Hi Everyone this is Luke Znosko with Z belt. Thank you all for the overwhelmingly positive feedback I see on here for my products. I wanted to start this thread to answer any questions you guys have. I see a lot of guys talking about belts, bags and load outs. Most of the threads on here reference the gen1 Z Belt. The gen2 regular z belt provides 20% more carrying capacity and the gen2 slim allows for offset orientation for those that want the plug bag to come all the way around front past the hip. Grateful for everyone in this industry and cant wait to answer any questions you have 1st picture is for fun 2nd picture illustrates the regular vs the slim belt 3rd picture is my goofy mario looking ass with a RI schoolie from fall 2021 Enjoy

First build, kind of figuring it out as I go. 11 1/2 foot rod with spinning reel. Plan to use as surfcasting/any long distance cadting saltwater situations. SO I've made several rookie mistakes that cant be undone but I want to ask about one that could possibly be undone. I have every guide in place, wrapped and epoxied EXCEPT the very last guide before the tip top. I already epoxied the tip top with the 2 part Pro Paste. The problem is before it fully set, the tip top moved (rotated about 20 degrees or so when I was load testing to figure out guide placement). I didnt notice until after it fully set in its new position. Photos attached. Should I a) leave it and move forward as is. b) can I heat up the tip top and re-orient it or is it to late? c) cut off the tip and attach a new one. d) rotate that last guide a little in the same direction as the tip top. e) something else? Thanks guys

hen you see a seal do you leave the spot? As if this stuff is not hard enough....now i have new friends..... A resident seal at my spot seems to be there all the time and has invited buddies. I guess we have similar real-estate tastes. Do you all just give up when you see our furry wet pals? I swear they followed me. A few days back I said good bye to them and I guess they love me now. Today I was at a piece of open beac/ structure I love. When the sun came up there he was..and he just watches me..... when I drove a few hundred yards east, to the end of the bar- bingo he and a pal pop up mocking me....Then I back tracked a few hundred yards to the west of my original position and suckers came there too. I gave up....

Star VPR Surf vs. TFO Tactical Surf. Looking at the 10’6” MH 2-6oz in both, as well as the 9’ and 11’ sizes possibly. For anyone who has tried either or both of these brand rods, which do you prefer and why? Are they comparable? They VPR is about $40 more expensive. I need 2-3 new setups for next year (one lighter and one heavier for canal and surf, and maybe one for jettys and piers). I can’t decide between Star or TFO. Going to be using this in Cape Cod Canal, NY, NJ, and VA surf, as well as FL surf, and possibly FL and NJ jetty’s. I travel a lot to find fish lol. Considering pairing with some Vissers. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Hey folks, Looking for some opinions and insights on the types of knives you carry when surfcasting. Do you carry something different in a rough ocean-facing surf than in a back bay or in quieter waters on the Sound? Thanks.

So who does everything are the best *current/active* custom surfcasting rod builders in Connecticut?

Anyone north of the cape still fishing the surf? I live on the south shore and usually hang it up by now but might give it a few more weeks considering there's been so much bait around. Any tips would be appreciated!

Does anyone put eyes on their homemade smiling bill and bullet bucktail jigs? Going to start making my own. Want to see some examples. Also what size eyes would you put on a bullet bucktail jig head? Thanks

What are everyone's method on labeling weights of plugs for bucktails and needle fish? I hear some scratch the weight on for bucktails. Writing the ounces with black or white sharpie on needle fish seems like another way to me. Thankyou.

Use 7 inch Z-Man Diezel minnows. They're durable and can take some hits from bluefish. How durable are Zinger Baits? Will they hold up from a few bluefish attacks?

Storm approaching. Heavy rain, wind, and coastal flooding. East end of Long Island will see the worst of this storm. So whose planning on getting out to fish?

Recently purchased a Lamiglas Carbon Surf 10 ft rated 1-5 oz from Tomo's Tackle online. Want a back up for the upcoming fall run since my 10 ft ODM DNA 3/4-4oz is at the tackle shop. Reel seat was too small for my VSX 200. During a morning outing at the inlet, vsx kept slipping out of the fuigi reel seat every other cast . Switched to my St Croix triumph 9ft rated 1/2-2.5 oz. but it felt like noodle casting 2oz bucktails. Shop is putting a slightly bigger reel seat on the DNA. What do you think of the Carbon Surf?