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Found 19 results

  1. I haven't wrapped a rod since my 16 year old nephew wants to build a couple rods. So I'm going to do some material gathering and I'm wondering - has anything noteworthy changed since 2013 in rod building? Better epoxy? Threads? Cork tape? Grips? Reel seats? Guides? We're gonna wrap a couple conventional boat rods first. About the fanciest thing we will do on the first couple rods is MAYBE use TWO different colors on the guides...wanna keep it simple, just don't wanna miss out on any new technology TimS
  2. Hi All, I'm new to this forum and in need of some help. I've built a few light tackle saltwater rods and a couple of fly rods years ago, but I'm new to surf rod building, and I'm about to start a 9' GSB 1M. From my research the Fuji RV is the way to go. I'm hard pressed to find any solid resources specifically for surf rods. All the materials I've found are not designed for surf rods. (i.e Anglers Resources KR GPS). I have been using Dale Clemens book as a guide but the book is outdated on guide tech. I'm not clear on three things for surf rods: 1) Distance from spool tip to the first stripper/butt guide: some factory rods range from 30-36" is this all trial and error? 2) Ring size: for KR do I go 20 or 25 for surf rods? The rod will be paired with a Van Staal VR 125/150 and 30 # braid. It seems that 25 is the best bet. 3) Choke guides after the RV butt? Do you go with KWs and use KTs as runners? Are single foots runners acceptable? Most factory rods I see go with double foot KWs for the entire rod including the runners. Is it all preference? Thanks for your help!
  3. So I'm building a new rod specifically for albies throwing mostly 1oz tins. The blank is a St Croix Salmon/Steelhead SC3 9.5' (Fast action • H power • Lure wt - 1/2 - 2oz). The reel will be a Penn Clash 4000 with 20lb braid Thinking of 2 possible setups 1) 20H, 10H, 6M and followed by 2 x KB6s and then KT6s to the tip. 2) 25H, 12H, 7M and followed by 2 x KB6s and then KT6s to the tip. Any thoughts / recommendations would be most welcome. Thanks everyone!!
  4. Hi everyone, I am new to the rod building game. I have just built my first rod. It was very simple without any crosswraps or anything fancy. It was so enjoyable to build, and I cant wait to build another. The only issue is that I feel like it is a really expensive hobby. The components from the first rod that I built were bought from Mudhole. The rod that I build cost about 100$ all said and done. This is by no means super expensive, but it is also not cheap. I see many people with rows upon rows of fishing rods that they have built themselves. Although it is possible, I simply can not see these people spending 100+ dollars on each fishing rod. I thought that there was possibly some other source where people were buying the components for these fishing rods. Is there one that I do not currently know about? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance...
  5. This is a new aluminum reel seat. It does not fit my build. Looking to trade for a 18 to 20mm ID reel seat, any color would work for me as longer is saltwater proof. Also I’m looking for stainless steel fly rod guides kit to trade. Asking $25 to your door. $20 to locals at 08753. Aluminum Reel Seat: 3A-L2O, Olive Green Anodized Aluminum.Front Hood fits into recessed cork with an OD:.780 2 Lock Nuts Straight Knurl with Delrin Inserts-With Finishing Ring-Length: 4" -ID: .510-OD: .640 Reel seat is next to a AA battery for a better reference on the actual ID. Thank you and Happy new year to you all.
  6. This is a new aluminum reel seat. It does not fit my build. Looking to trade for a 18 to 20mm ID reel seat, any color would work for me as longer is saltwater proof. Also I’m looking for stainless steel fly rod guides kit to trade. Asking $25 to your door. $20 to locals at 08753. Aluminum Reel Seat: 3A-L2O, Olive Green Anodized Aluminum.Front Hood fits into recessed cork with an OD:.780 2 Lock Nuts Straight Knurl with Delrin Inserts-With Finishing Ring-Length: 4" -ID: .510-OD: .640 Reel seat is next to a AA battery for a better reference on the actual ID. Thank you and Happy new year to you all.
  7. In the Christmas / Holiday Spirit we have put an awesome new kit on sale. $16.95! This 6' ML Spinning Kit includes, a 6' 1pc blank with a beautiful Burl Finish, complete guide / tip top set, eva split grip handle, graphite reel seat, and a hook keeper. This is the Perfect All Around Spinning Outfit! Very durable! A Great for for yourself, or a friend! *Build it and Fish it* or *Gift it and teach someone the Craft* **Bass, Panfish, Walleye, Trout, you name it, Everything is fun on this rod** Don't forget FREE SHIPPING over $95!! Have an Awesome Weekend! Thank you for your Support!
  8. Made this for my brother who lives in Colorado. He wanted a 9' 3 wt and Mudhole had the OEM 9' 3 wt blanks on sale. The reel seat is a stock type up locking that I happen to have a few of and they weight less than an ounce. The guides are Fuji KW 10 Alconite with SS frame and SS Black painted framed (BLAG) Alconite 7mm transition guide and the rest 5.5mm running guides and 6mm tip top, all Alconite ceramic rings. The grip is a half wells and the thread is Fishawk black and Pac Bay metallic Red.
  9. Hello everyone, Last year a bought a Star Rod Stellar SG90IS. Around that time one of the swanky exclusive beach clubs in my area decided to push a bunch of sand right up to the adjacent groin that separates their beach and the public beach, this effectively created covered crevices (booby traps) between the rocks. So while i was walking on the sand next to the rocks my foot plunged through the sand into one of these covered crevices resulting in a nasty leg scrap, a dislocated pinky and worst of all I broke the top piece of my brand new rod. I tried contacting Star Rods to see if i could purchase a replacement top piece since the butt piece is perfectly fine. Star Rods was gracious enough to ignore my communications, awesome customer service! Since I have a practically brand new butt section I wanted to try and build a new top piece on my own. I am new to rod building so I thought this project would be the perfect way for me to get started. Additionally I think it will be fun to experiment with rod pieces to use for different applications. I wanted to see if anyone could offer some advice about how I should go about picking a blank to make the top piece from. I understand that the rod relatively inexpensive and it might make more sense financially to just replace the entire rod but it would really bother me to just throw away the butt section. Thanks in advance for any advice!
  10. 13 Fuji tip tops & guides that I no longer need: Tip Tops BMNAT 10 6.5 BMNAT 10 8.0 BMNAT 10 9.0 KLs BKLAG -25H BKLAG -20H BKLAG -10 (4) BKLAG - 12H BKLAG -8M (2) The RMA $ on these would be $53, plus my shipping - so I’ll let the above go for $48 (PP & USPS Priority) I also have the 4 following bundles, which I will include for an additional $5.00 to $12.50 Don't want to split, SO take the whole bundle for another 10% off = $75 Misc Fuji - $10 Fuji 1 Foot - $7.50 Fuji 2 Foot - $12.50 Not Fuji - $5.00
  11. I have built most all my sticks since 1960. The rods I have bought have been travel rods that can be put in my suitcase when I fly. So I have been stuck with "almost long enough" , "pretty good" sticks. I would like to have a 7' ---- 4 piece travel rod that I will use for Redfish, Rooster fish and Tarpon. Does anyone know a guy who is capable of building a solid travel rod? I have paid beaucoups in extra baggage fees for carrying my rod cases. Since I started using pack rods the savings cover my fishing licenses and a couple six packs. Travel rods pay for themselves on the first trip. The St Croix is the best travel rod I own now. It handles 15lb test well and I can cast plugs up to 3/4 oz pretty well. I have been outgunned by enough fish now to search out something more robust. Anyone got ideas?
  12. fly rods

    This is a Fly Rod I recently finished that I made for my Christmas present. I have a BVK that I had done in a 5 wt but it felt a little too stiff and more like a 6 wt so I made this Mangrove that is not quite as stiff as the BVK. The set up is a REC reel seat with a natural cork half Wells grip. The thread is a variegated yellow orange Fish Hawk with Gudebrod metallic gold accents. The guides are Fuji KW 12mm Ti frame, a 8mm BLAG and 10 6mm BLAG running guides. The tip is an Alconite black SS frame with a 6mm ring. It cast a WF 5 F trout line pretty good that is just a regular cold water line and not a half size larger. The thread was a good match but after I got it finished it looked a little like band aids. Oh well it cast good.
  13. Hey guys. I’m looking for a 9ft rod rated to 4 ounces. But I’m really liking the Gsb 1081M blank. This will be paired with a VR 150. I was wondering if the 1081M was true to 3? Lighter? Or can throw heavier. I’m usually gonna be throwing under 3 but accasionally 3 1/4 or 3 1/2. Thanks guys
  14. So I've got this idea in my head to build a 9'6 distance rod using the kr-concept for launching mirrolures and gulps for specks as well as tins and albie snax for albie from the shore / jetties. I'm looking at 2 salmon/steelhead blanks and wanted to get everyone's thoughts on the blanks I'm considering as well as if this is even a good idea/concept. The blanks are St. Croix SCIII (3SC96MF2) and Rainshadow RX8 (XST1143F-TC). Both are 9'6" • fast action • med power • lure wt - SCIII - 1/4-3/4 oz. RX8 - 3/8-3/4. I'm just worried these salmon blanks might be too soft. Thanks, Dutch
  15. Hi Everyone, Hope all is well! Need some help on this. Does anyone have experience with guide placement for a LAMI CSB 114 2M - or any of the Tri-Flex Surf series blanks? Here is what I found from an old Lami catalog: Inches measured from tip: TIP First Guide = 6" size 12 Second Guide = 15" size 16 Third Guide = 25" size 25 Fourth Guide = 39" size 40 Fifth Guide = 56" size 50 Tip -> 6" -> 15" -> 25" -> 39" -> 56" Also, I don't have much experience with the Tri-Flex. Is there a good way to accurately find the spine on these? W
  16. I have a St Croix Avid inshore 7' casting rod VIC70MHF. I don't like how short the butt is and wanted to move the reel seat up appx 3". What kind of effect will this have on the action and performance of the rod? Have any of you done this before?
  17. I am going to building my first rod here in the next few weeks. It's going to be a 8 foot blank. The blank I'm buying is a gator 8' plug/spin blank from mudhole. I couldn't find any charts that showed the guide placement. Maybe it will come with that info? What I was wondering is how important is guide placement? Couldn't I just space them out and tape them on and bend the rod and see how it acts? Maybe move them a little? Any info would be great. Thanks. C. Carter
  18. I am new to rod building, and fly fishing. I've decided to tackle both at the same time. Over the past two weeks, I have been gathering the materials to build a 9 foot 9 wt fly rod (Lamiglas ISI Graphite 108-9 blank). Upon receiving the parts for my handle, I realized that I am not sure how to address the transition from the fighting butt and the reel seat. The front Winn grip fits very nicely over the reel seat. Should I cut the butt to fit over the reel seat in a similar way, or is there a piece of trim I should use between the two? It seems like it would feel un-finished to just but the reel seat threads to the foam of the fighting butt. I've attached a photo of my grip and reel seat. Also if anyone has detailed photos of a fly rod with a permanently fixed fighting butt like this, could you please post them? Thanks. -Tyler
  19. Hi, Rookie rod builder here, please help. Going to build my own rods for my operation here in Costa Rica (tired of Shimano rods). I fish and guide off my Hobie Tandem Island Kayak with an added DIY 2.3hp Honda. Trolling speeds are anywhere from 4 mph to 7 mph depending on using sail and/or motor (currently 90 percent of my fishing is trolling). 2-********** rod holders over the akas pointing the rods straight out the side. Generally speaking I can't apply more than 15 to 20lbs of pressure on a fish without a sleigh ride. Straight up and down is a different story. More often than not my catches range from Dorado to Sierra Macs. But the occasional big rooster, sailfish, marlin, yellowfin, wahoo can happen (want to increase my catch in these species). I am looking for blanks in the 6ft or less range. Why? Because unlike a smaller kayak, on a Tandem Island there is a lot of noise going on with sail, amas, size, etc. You can't allow the fish to dictate the area or side of the kayak to fight. But unlike a boat it is easy to stick your rod over the side of the kayak and allow the fish to move the kayak. Also a shorter rod is much easier to get at the leader/tip of the rod, especially when solo. 6ft is the ideal length. Note: (For my smaller Revolution 11 on heavy surf launches it is needed to slide a rod into the hull) I also plan to mount my rod seat closer to the butt for better ergonomics while seated. Allowing a large butt cap to rest against my seated torso while griping the rod above the reel and also have an easy reach for reel operation. (Don't know how this plays in the rods overall action) I am unsure about the guides. Was thinking a full roller setup, but maybe that is overkill and would be more detrimental to the action of the rod. Stripper set up? In short recap: 3 trolling rods, Avet JX (MX) Raptor (65lb braid), Strike set at 17-20 lbs., 6ft length, Calstar 760L? Reel seat? Stripper set up or just roller tip (I definitely at least want a roller tip for clients inabililty to stop at the swivel)? All rollers? If all rollers, can I get by with AFTCO light weight or would I have to go with normal size? I think I would use the backup trolling rod for a casting rod for the few moments I do want one. 1 jigging rod, Avet JX, strike at 12lbs, 5'6" length? No rollers (this rod is just for me)? Calstar 765XL (cut off a foot)? Reel seat? Thank you for all suggestions. I've soaked up a lot of great advice here, so far.