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Found 2 results

  1. I never had the chance to meet BFD one on one. My only interactions were on SOL and I got to see him demonstrate the Betsy at Bears Den. BFD and I had some great discourse about when he used to fish the night shift earlier in life for very similar reasons to mine. So I decided to name this fly variant I created the "BFD Midnight Special". This fly is a variation of Rich Murphy's Conomo Special. I add foam inside the head to give the fly neutral buoyancy so its suspends. Balancing the materials for suspension is tricky, but the good news is it will still catch fish if it sinks. I found adding eyes with UV resin makes it just a bit to heavy and defeats suspending action so fly has no eyes. This fly is as close to a 5" black sluggo as I have been able to manage for action. The mesh head displaces the right amount of water while still being aerodynamic enough to cast far. The sparse Squimpish hair body/tail has great movement in turbulence behind mesh head as well as sheds all water on first false cast for distance casting. Materials are: Hook: Tiemco TMC600SP 1/0 Hair: Squmpish Boutique Blends Purple Body Tubing: EZ Body, Size Large, Color Peacock Foam: Black 5/16" live body foam cylinder Thread: Black Danville 140 Denier waxed flymaster plus or fine clear mono tying thread. Step 1: Build thread base on hook ending with thread at back of barb or at begining of hook bend Step 2: Select a 4" taped section of Squimpish purple blend and tie in as tail on top of hook shank Step 3: Cut 1 1/4" section of large peacock EZ body then tie on top of tail tie in. Step 4: Secure all thread wraps for tail and mesh with UV Resin/Softex/Super Glue tiers choice on adhesive. Step 5: Cut thread and form spreader cone folding mesh tubing back on itself. Step 6: Reattach thread to shank stop 1/8" from mesh tie in point. Slide mesh forward enough to slide thread into fibers and take two lose wraps before cinching tubing onto hook shank. Then wrap all the way until you hit other tubing tie in point. Secure thread with three half hitches before adding any more materials. **Trick to grab tubing cut small slit into top of tubing and pull thread up into notch to help grab into material to cinch and secure to hook shank. Make sure spreader is a nice round cone shape before adding resin or softex. Adjust shape with fingers as needed. Step 7: Coat thread and mesh tubing in softex and let air dry. If you want faster drying adhesive use UV Flex or Tuffleye Flex for hardening spreader cone. I prefer Softex for almost all my EZ Body coating work except adding eyes to mesh. Step 8: Cut two 3.5" Squimpish Purple Blend sections. Distribute first material clump sparsely around upper half of spreader. Turn hook upside down then tie in second clump and distribute sparsely. use two lose wraps to hold materials then work them around shank and spreader with fingers. Once distribution is right tightly thread wrap back tight to base of spreader. Secure with two or three half hitches before moving to foam work. Add softex or UV thin resin to thread to secure it permanently to shank and hold materials in place. Step 9: Cut a 1/2" long piece of 5/16" LBF cylinder. Then cut in half length wise. Step 10: Secure top foam half to top hook shank with loose thread wraps. Then secure bottom half of foam to bottom of hook shank with loose thread wraps. Tie off thread right near hook eye with three half hitches then cut thread. Step 11: Cut 1 1/4" section of large peacock EZ Body. Side over foam all the way back to cover end of spreader causing hair to take conical shape. NOTE: if you want more flare of material shorten length of tubing used to end 1/8" before spreader rear edge. This will creater higher flare of materials and bigger bodied look of fly. Step 12: Reattach thread then work thread into mesh and make two loose wraps to capture mesh. Cinch materials down onto hook shank. Wrap towards foam head then back towards hook eye. Secure thread with two half hitches then UV Resin. Cut thread after curing resin. Step 13: Use bodkin to push mono and mylar back into thread wraps and trim with scissors to get clear hook eye. Then take out of vise and look at material distribution. You can shift it around spreader to fill in any gaps before coating entire mesh head in Softex or UV/Tuffleye Flex. The fly is complete and ready to fish. If you want to add eyes your best bet is tabbed eyes to minimize any extra weight. I have tried adding 3d eyes with UV Resin. It looks great but the extra weight screws up neutral buoyancy and changes action to a nose first slow sinking fly. I hope SOL members find this fly useful for their night exploits. But if you want to make a daylight version here are the material substitutions below: Hook: Tiemco TMC600SP 1/0 Hair: Squmpish Boutique Blends white Hair ALT: SquimpishBoutique Blends Chartreuse for top wing and white for belly and sides. Body Tubing: EZ Body, Size Large, Color Pearl Foam: White 5/16" live body foam cylinder Thread: fine clear mono tying thread.
  2. I am writing a series of blog articles on this topic. I figured I would also post the information here as well. There are four articles total. The first two are done and I will post immediately. The other two I am working on finishing. I really like the blog I started writing for, but I noticed that my articles are lucky to get 200 views total. The whole point of writing the articles was to help people get information on how to fly fish at night more effectively for striped bass keeper size or better. I know that SOL is a more targeted audience and the information will be appreciated so figured I would share them here too.
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