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Found 3 results

  1. Hi all. I'm new here, hopefully this post is in the right place. I just anodized a set of Fuji Guides for a surf rod I'm building. I want to share some important information for others that are interested in doing the same. First and foremost: the guides need to be titanium. Unfortunately, this can make for expensive mistakes. I bought a titanium KW-10m from a Chinese wholesale site for testing. Surprisingly, it was real titanium (sparks are white when grinding, and it took the anodize well). All the Fuji markings were present; I believe it was a genuine Fuji product. It was also CHEAP. Do not blame me if you skip a trial run and ruin a $300 set of guides. And before anyone asks, the rest of the guides were purchased on a reputable rod building site (i.e. not mystery chinesium). Second important note: I only recommend doing this with torzite guides. I used SiC guides. In the pictures, you'll notice the rings look dull. They weren't like that before anodizing. I assume the silicon carbide oxidized and formed a thin layer of silicon dioxide on the surface. They still feel slick, but I haven't fished it yet so I can't comment on the long term effects this may have. The test piece I bought was torzite, and the ring still looks perfect. 3. The KG style tip-top will not take an anodize. It might be coated with something. I don't want to try stripping it since the ring is partially held in with epoxy. Pretty much anything that will eat a clear coat will also eat into epoxy. That brings me to my next point: 4. Skip the etch. It could affect the retaining epoxy on the rings, or even the rings themselves. Typically, titanium is etched with something like Whink, which has very diluted hydrofluoric acid. I'm not a chemist, but I assume this will do more harm than good on ceramics. It will also shrink your titanium a bit. I used dish soap and hot water to degrease everything before anodizing. Simple green works well too. The rest is the same as any tutorial you'll find online. I won't detail the whole process here since it's readily available information. The blue color I got was achieved with 36 volts. Gold was 54. I started getting weird multicolor greenish stuff at 90-95 volts. I'll be machining a titanium piece for a Fuji hidden thread assembly later this week. I'll update this thread with more pictures if it turns out good.
  2. Hi All, I'm new to this forum and in need of some help. I've built a few light tackle saltwater rods and a couple of fly rods years ago, but I'm new to surf rod building, and I'm about to start a 9' GSB 1M. From my research the Fuji RV is the way to go. I'm hard pressed to find any solid resources specifically for surf rods. All the materials I've found are not designed for surf rods. (i.e Anglers Resources KR GPS). I have been using Dale Clemens book as a guide but the book is outdated on guide tech. I'm not clear on three things for surf rods: 1) Distance from spool tip to the first stripper/butt guide: some factory rods range from 30-36" is this all trial and error? 2) Ring size: for KR do I go 20 or 25 for surf rods? The rod will be paired with a Van Staal VR 125/150 and 30 # braid. It seems that 25 is the best bet. 3) Choke guides after the RV butt? Do you go with KWs and use KTs as runners? Are single foots runners acceptable? Most factory rods I see go with double foot KWs for the entire rod including the runners. Is it all preference? Thanks for your help!
  3. I started this build for a buddy of mine. It’s a 12’ CTS vaportrail 3-6oz he will be using at the canal and surrounding areas. Here are are some pictures for now. Just got done doing the underwrap today. Layout will go rv25-rv16-kw10m-kw8 kw8 x how ever many to the tip top. Tip top used is a Fuji KG ring 8
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