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Found 18 results

  1. Looking to get into some airbrushing for finishing kits and other fun stuff. Not really looking to get into selling so hoping to save some cash. Would mostly use for plug kits and blank plastic FW crankbaits. I'll list some stuff I'd be interested in below, but show me what you have, as I currently do not have anything. This would be a casual basement endeavor with no professional ventilation for me, so going with water based/epoxy finish approach. For budget reference, if purchasing new I'd probably go with the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (~$150) and the Master Airbrush 1/5 HP compressor (~$90). Not super rushed to buy. Items of interest: -airbrush; in good working condition with decent variable width adjustment -hose(s) -compressor (quiet as possible is a must) -drying station (rotating) -water based paints -cleaners -stencils -eyes
  2. I am a college engineering student so I really like making things rather than spending money on them as money is tight at the moment. i was wondering if anyone had any ideas on how to make teasers that go on the popular bucktail rigs when fishing for flounder. I know people make their own bucktails but is there a way to make the teasers that go on the second hook? Thank you all for any ideas.
  3. So, I was trying to think of a better way of making a leader with a teaser line, without the dreaded dropper loop. It's a pain to tie and very weak. So I found this swivel by SPRO. It's call the power swivel combo. Just can't justify paying 6$ for 5 of these things. It came to me to just slightly bend the end of one Rosco swivel, and slide it into another Rosco. Then bend it enough so it's locked in place. I used small regular old Channel Lock pliers, the grooves hold it in place. Ideally a fine pair of needle nose pliers would be best to bend back, I used a dart... I used the bent eye to go to the standing line, tied about foot section of 40# fluro to a surgeon's loop, so you can change the fly, to the side ways swivel. Then about 2 feet of 40# fluro for the main leader, ending in a fast link. I read on a post here, that using a heavier leader for the teaser will tangle less. That, however, was for when using only one swivel. I didn't want to go lighter then 40# for my main leader, and 50# starts getting absurd for a small fly. 40# fluro is pretty stiff, and hopefully the sideways swivel will keep it from tangling. Can't wait to try it out today, and I like being able to save some cash, and still use the American made swivel.
  4. Looking for advice on building and materials when it comes to surfbag building, any resources, hints, tips, tricks, anything that could help, especially when it comes to technique on sewing thick fabric. Heres what ill be purchasing soon, lmk if theres anything i need to add to the list. 8 oz Dacron sailcloth or Topgun Cloth Stainless steel Grommets Heavy Duty marine grade thread (V-92) Not sure on webbing for bottom portion of bag as well as the trip needed various buckles I know there's more, I'm just not sure what exactly i should get such as the webbing for straps and what to use for binding edges. Thanks in advance! i read the available threads on here and they helped with some perspective as well as materials!
  5. So i have decided to make some DIY tubes. I have found everything I need EXCEPT FOR THE WIRE! I am having trouble finding durable wire over the length of 15". I have done my research on the inter-webs with no luck but Ryan from Fishing CC had a pretty good video on youtube. Any suggestions fellas?
  6. I was rebuilding a Batson rod I built about 15 years ago and before it's completion, started on a new Black Hole blank as I wanted a different light surf rod for this winter. Both rods are done with static load tests as well as a few test castings which is all good except now got two surf rods to wrap plus one that's been waiting on couple of guides repair for some time now. I built myself a low budget rod wrapper with parts mostly taken from broken things I had around when I first built the Batson I am rebuilding now. This served the purpose back then... Though it did not have a thread carriage and thread tension was from a broken stepper motor friction which was somewhat limited resulting a slow progress with more difficulties in building overall. So I got side tracked (as usual) and decided to rebuild this old rod wrapper to make the wrapping a bit easier. Well here is the carriage part with couple of rebuilt rod supports made with inline rollers I picked up from a garage sales few years ago for this. I am going to use the old variable speed drill with dead battery and VCR tape head in above picture to make the variable speed wrapper head and probably build another rod support with inline wheels. If I don't get distracted on something else that is. Except a few washers, nuts and couple of ceramic magnets (on left green thread bobbin) I bought, rest of parts are from my garage parts bins. Yeah you guessed right, I think I do have a mild to moderate case of hoarding... Did some hand test wrapping on it and very happy with how the sliding carriage and magnetic thread tensioner works, wheels are much more stable and smooth (each wheels got two quality English bearings in them. Overkill for sure) as well.
  7. I've seen a lot of content on fishing the bridges, and I know that January is not the best month -- but that's when I'm free and that's when I'm going. Can anyone offer some January-specific DIY fishing advice for the Keys? Pretty much interested in tangling with anything of size that pulls, so not ashamed to pursue sharks, barracudas and jacks in addition to the more "desirable" species. Not looking for meat, just a good time with a buddy. So where should we go in January? What should we target in January? How should we target them in January? Very much appreciate any advice that folks can offer or direction to a thread that addresses this, if I may have missed it.
  8. Hey everyone, I’m looking to get a bike that I can modify to make a functional fishing machine. I’m really just looking for a bike that is modifiable to carry my rods in places where I might want to move around (i.e. the canal) Any suggestions on bikes that are easy to modify and also any ideas for things I should include in my build? Thanks!
  9. Anyone familiar with best spots for fly fishing coastal Maine? As of now I'm thinking York, Kittery, Biddeford, Cape Porpoise areas but wanted to see if there are any secret gems out there that should be explored. Cheers!
  10. First post so, hello all! Planning a trip down to Marco Island for mid-May to do some fly fishing. I will be staying across the street from Tigertail Beach and I understand that gets pretty active as things heat up down there. Wondering if there are any extra tips, tricks, and info anyone has on their own excursions down that way and is willing to share. I'll be packing a 9-10 wt with floating and intermediate lines and am looking into some boots to wade through the muck and such. Please and thank you, tight lines!
  11. Hey guys - long time lurker, first-time poster. Thank you for all of the info and knowledge over the years! It has put me on a few schoolies which is a huge accomplishment considering that I am a Texas redfish guy and only get to fish the Northshore of Boston once or twice a year when visiting the in-laws. I typically bring an 8wt and throw clousers, deceivers and other minnow patterns and that seems to work well on the schoolies but I've yet to hookup with anything over 16". I'm restricted in my means of transportation and time since this is a non-fishing family, but I'm able to get out to a nearby beachfront and rock outcropping on most mornings which is the extent of my success. I will be back in the Swampscott/Marblehead/Salem area on July 7-10 and I'm looking to get into more than schoolies - can anyone point me towards a good guide or another tactic than fishing off rocky points? How about diy marsh/back bay fishing in that area? Would anyone want to split a guide w/ me? Or if you have room on your boat, I will be more than happy to pay for the gas and all the cold domestics your heart desires. I'm bringing my 8wt and 6wt for schoolies, figure that will make it a tad more exciting if that's all I can find. I'm also open to albies if that's on the menu but I'll have to club up if that's the case. Any advice or pointers would be great. Thanks in advance.
  12. Morning - I am leaving tomorrow morning for a wedding in Savannah. Should be interesting travel with the weather down there. That being said, I'm considering taking some fly gear with me. Anybody know of any DIY in the area? Boat/guides are just not really in the cards.
  13. Nowadays, everyone who's in touch with the modern world uses a minimum of 2-4 different gadgets and as always there's a bunch of broken gadgets in our homes that we normally throw it away without using or repair it or even try to make something with it. today we will show you how to make your own professional microphone from broken headphones in just few steps using available tools at home. step 1 : materials well to make perfect mic at home you need : 1- cardboard tube 2- unuseless fluorescent lamp 3- glue 4- sharp knife 5- scissors 6- sponge 7- adhesive tape 8- broken headphone ( earphone ) : make sure that the mic work's before you start building your microphone step 2 : preparation of tools : - headphone : -cut of the speakers (earbud) and wires after the mic by using the scissors and keep the rest - fluorescent lamp (you gonna need tow ): -remove the (glass tube or spiral lamp ) and the electrionic ballast by using sharp knife -keep the (screwbase - housing) -be careful when you cut it into two parts -then you need to make a hole in the center of the screwbase -cut one of the previous screwbase and keep just the lamp cap - cardboard tube : - cut it into three parts ( be sure you cut it with different sizes: 2 short and 1 tall ) -put the lamp cap inside the short tube and tap them together with black tape step 3 : assembling at this stage you need to put all of the materials on your table to assemble them easily. -now take the cable that we modified it and feed it through the screw base and the cardboard tube then feed it through the last part wich is the lamp cap -tap them together with the black tape -bring the sponge and make small hole in the center - put the mic head in the sponge hole then put some glue around the cable to make sure it's not moving. step 4 : testing the microphone plug the jack into its place ( audio slot ) in your phone or laptop, after that go to sound recorder app and start recording your voice by saying something like ' test, test, this is a test ' now play it, and enjoy your new cheap microphone step 5 : done congrats on finishing and thanks for reading my first article, hopefully you enjoyed it and your microphone works great. happy recording for all *
  14. Hey guys, definitely digging the vast diy plug building information available here. It really gets the creativity flowing. Here are a few recently completed ones. I tried doing the swirl method on the blue darter, I think it came out pretty cool. I call it 'galaxy'. I had great success with all my custom plugs last fall, so I'm looking forward to next year and testing out the new additions.
  15. Surf fishing in Florida has thus far meant walking the beach casting off the sand, fishing off the inlet or wading the intercoastal/lagoon. I used waders several times last February when the lagoon water got "cold" but otherwise I am wet-wading. Thus, a wading belt for me does not need to cinch waders as would be typical when river wading (I have those too). Which explains why this is more a Batman-style utility belt than a traditional Northeast wader belt. For the past year I have been carrying all my "tools" on or laced through the same belt holding up my pants. Not a problem except when I want to slip out of the gear quickly without to get in truck, sit by bank, etc. so I have been contemplating a variant of the Brokos "battle belt" I use when taking AR courses. Given I wanted a stiff belt that would hold up to weight and movement, I opted for a base using a battle/tactical belt from Blackhawk. Three-point buckle is easy to manipulate but holds tight enough for my usage. Being fully adjustable with Velcro makes it hugely convenient to size for what I am wearing or my changing girth (holidays are tough). The preliminary result is shown below, front and back showing attachments. From right to left: -Jaws holster with Gander Mountain titanium multiplier and Sea Scissors -Dive knife with locking hard plastic sheath -Pouch-style water bottle holster / Dump-pouch -Flatlander beltclip -Spare rod holder/tube, BladeTech QR holster clip & cut top of Rubbermade box -Boga hanging from molded belting clip I am not yet convinced I need the Boga just for fish handling. I have the lipper pliers shown at the left which I may opt for as well. Or buy me one of those lippers that so many striper guys use. The rod holder is used when I wade the lagoon and take two rods with me: 7.5' 0.5-1.5 oz and 8.5' 0.75-3oz. When the second rod is in the holder, I can easily walk and cast without interference. While I haven't taken this belt in the ocean beach yet, I will likely remove the rod tube which is why I made it with the Blade-Tech clip. With all that gear and a bottle of water, the belt doesn't not feel heavy and sits very nicely in my hips over my shorts belt. Comments and questions welcome
  16. I am new to rod building, and fly fishing. I've decided to tackle both at the same time. Over the past two weeks, I have been gathering the materials to build a 9 foot 9 wt fly rod (Lamiglas ISI Graphite 108-9 blank). Upon receiving the parts for my handle, I realized that I am not sure how to address the transition from the fighting butt and the reel seat. The front Winn grip fits very nicely over the reel seat. Should I cut the butt to fit over the reel seat in a similar way, or is there a piece of trim I should use between the two? It seems like it would feel un-finished to just but the reel seat threads to the foam of the fighting butt. I've attached a photo of my grip and reel seat. Also if anyone has detailed photos of a fly rod with a permanently fixed fighting butt like this, could you please post them? Thanks. -Tyler
  17. I am thinking about getting into pouring my own jig heads. I know there is some equipment needed and am willing to invest what is needed. Knowing how many jigs I go through in a season, I know it will be worth it to invest in the gear needed to make my own. I also find it very interesting the idea of pouring your own heads and then using them and catching fish with them, it is a rewarding feeling for sure! Does anyone have any tips or advice for all the necessary equipment needed to do this? I am somewhat familiar with the process and know I need the following: Jig Mold(s) Jig head hooks Melting pot Lead (of course) Safety glasses which I have Pouring spoon Well ventilated spot to pour Does anyone have recommendations for reliable stores/websites to purchase this equipment at? i.e. Local hardware stores etc. I appreciate any input on this! - Al
  18. Hi I am in final stage of completing my home made Lure drying wheel struck in the final stage. I am very bad as far electrical knowledge is concerned, don't know how to connect the motor with power supply. while going through the google could not find any resource on the same. I purchased this motor from india without any marking showing if it is AC or DC motor. Need help as to : 1) how to connect the motor with the power supply 2) what additional equipment's (electrical) i need to put between motor and power supply if at all are required. Thanks Raghubir