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Found 6 results

  1. Crack 300 Lot $120: Two fully functioning reels, one bailed, the other made bailless and “sealed” by the previous owner back in the 70’s. Tons of parts including bearings and an extra spool. Penn 704z Bailless $65: Bought this a few months ago from a member as a backup, thought I’d give bailless a try again, still hate it. Asking what I paid, cleaned and lubed, works perfect, has 20lb mono Penn 85 $10: part boat classic, cleaned and lubed, works as it should, previous owner only used it in freshwater Plugs are pretty self explanatory, any questions just ask. Prices as follows: 1) $6 *****sale pending 2) $5 *****sale pending 3) $2 tail is cracked and missing plastic sale pending 4) $10, never thrown been sitting on my pegboard for a while ******sale pending 5) $5, this is older, hooks need to be replaced sale pending 6) $10*****sale pending 7) $10 sale pending 8) $5 9) $5 10) $5 11&12) $2 each 13&14) $3 each? vintage bucktails, I know nothing about them, if you know better let me know. As of right now I’m not shipping, located in Suffolk County LI. Open to trades for Penn reels, surf rods, anything you think I might be interested in, let me know
  2. In a bit of a pickle determining which boat to buy was hoping to get some help from the forum. The 08 in contention looks like its in really good condition for its age. I can get it for 1000 and I know that if nothing catastrophic happens ill easily be able to get my money out of it in a few years when I go to upgrade.... Thing is I know these boats are known for cracking at the drive and leaking. On top of that, the owner used a scupper cart which creates another weak point. I could instead get a leftover 2015 Revolution 11 for about $1900 after tax. At least I would have the peace of mind owning a new boat and having a warranty, but this would really be a stretch in my budget. Id love to get your opinions on what you think I should do. the length doesn't really make a difference to me as im 165. This will be my first Hobie
  3. In a bit of a pickle determining which boat to buy was hoping to get some help from the forum. The 08 in contention looks like its in really good condition for its age. I can get it for 1000 and I know that if nothing catastrophic happens ill easily be able to get my money out of it in a few years when I go to upgrade.... Thing is I know these boats are known for cracking at the drive and leaking. On top of that, the owner used a scupper cart which creates another weak point. I could instead get a leftover 2015 Revolution 11 for about $1900 after tax. At least I would have the peace of mind owning a new boat and having a warranty, but this would really be a stretch in my budget. Id love to get your opinions on what you think I should do. the length doesn't really make a difference to me as im 165. This will be my first Hobie
  4. Not that kind of crack, get your mind out of the gutter you degenerates. I had the pleasure today of plundering one mans collection. Picked a few wood poppers, some musso's, some needlefish, and a plug bag. This guy has a massive amount of old Crack reels (probably 30 or more), vintage Honey Lami's, vintage graphite rods, etc. Plenty of stuff for the pickins. he does have a Van Staal, he wants $650 for the Van Staal and $125 for a 12 foot Lami rod. He has molds for tins, repair parts, etc. Quite a collection. He was one of the guys that bought up the last new old stock Crack repair parts. Ron in Commack. At his age, he's not on the internet so I told him I would pass his number along to anyone that might be interested. I personally don't think it's worth the trip unless you need Crack repair parts or are really into vintage stuff. Send me a PM and I'll send you his number. Really nice guy, just trying to help him move his collection.
  5. Good Morning! I find myself in need of a side plate screw for a Crack 300 reel. As I understand it, these screws are a bastard metric size that is not readily available. Happy to pay for the screw (ha!) and the postage. Let me know if anyone can lend a hand in completing this rebuild. Thank you! -Buckmark22
  6. I think all the knowledge can be pulled form all the VS vs. ZB vs. Penn Torque topics but it's hard to get through those as they are full of personal opinion and bias without any real back to back information. Mostly there are people picking at single examples of a failure and not common failure. I hope to hear about what makes a great surf spinning reel in terms of things like gear style and material. rotor cup and embedded spool vs. rotor arms and skirted spool. Line roller bearing vs. bushing, line lay importance, reeling smoothness and the trades we make giving up on that, weight, ease of mantainence and simple designs versus highly complex designs, anti-reverse clutch versus simplier ratcheting devices, retrieve rates, etc. When I think of the great surf reels over the decades I think of Crack/Luxor, Mitchells, Garcia, Penn 704/706. Many are still using these today, including me. VS definitely changed the game by adding seals. It appears to me that RK took a Crack and improved on it with seals and probably most importantly really change the design of the drag in a way that makes it really easily sealed without hindering the reeling aspects too harshly. But outside the sealing it is a Crack that is drilled out to remove the parasitic weight (unnecessary material that adds weight but doesn't improve it's strength or durability). Most specifically, I want to know about the full rotor cup versus rotor arm / skirted spool differences in design. To me, as a surf guy, you cannot possibly handle the load that would require a full cup design (even though my reels have full cups). You would get dragged into the wash, break the line, or break the rod before bending a rotor arm to hit the spool. It would be great if people responding did not mention brand names. Let's talk the feature/quality that makes a surf reel a surf reel.