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About Sweetwater

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  1. I'm more than happy to pay the $100. I just don't have it until tomorrow. I'll get a money order out when I leave work tomorrow.
  2. Please don't close this until Friday.
  3. Ugly Stik is like Smirnoff: the original versions were competent products at a fair price. Later "flavors" are attempts to market a name. Edit: the original products still are good for a reasonable price.
  4. I use a $1 computer bag I got at a thrift store. Works fine. I also use a nurse's bag I got from a girl I dated. I prefer satchel-style bags over backpack style because it gives me better access to my stuff.
  5. Back in the day, the standard hook for that was the Eagle Claw L141 or L042. Mustad was the 37160. 141 is the kahle and can be used in sizes 2/0-4/0. The larger the bait, the larger the hook. 042 is described as a salmon hook, but I only ever knew them as wide bend hooks. They can be 1/0-5/0. Both styles slide to a corner of the mouth like a circle, but can be set with a strike. For a flounder, that means the point of the jaw. Reds and trout will be hooked in the hinge of the jaw. I use bronze hooks so I can cut the line and be confident the hook will rot quickly if I get an occasional gut hook.
  6. I think you would be happier with the tiger series.
  7. I'm putting this thread in my sharpie folder so I can reread it and glean all the truths hidden between the lines.
  8. Yes. That is exactly what the forum is saying.
  9. Remember that because the Omoto has more than one metal in it, electrolysis will occur whether the main gear is stainless or not.
  10. Not really. The ASMFC exists to manage troubled species. Fisheries management is like religion. Everybody sitting and listening to the preacher is a sinner.
  11. How many lessons have you learned in the past that cost $15?
  12. Please understand that building fishing rods is not an exact science and there are other opinions. What you posted is an honest attempt and simply different than what I learned. As far as the line goes, my opinion is that the extremely light braid was getting pushed by the wind causing it to dampen your casts. Switching to a heavier braid helped reduce the impact of the wind allowing you to cast further. Aerodynamic lures like the ones you were having problems with should not be impacted by your choice of rod, reel or line (provided all are balanced to each other). The issues you had were beyond your control. If a spook is tumbling and you have a reasonable casting technique, it's probably not related to you. Edit: I just read ZA's response and see his point. I know some stuff and he knows a lot of stuff. However, this is not a one size fits all situation- I use a 12-15" leader with no issues of tumbling with really light lines until the wind really kicks up. As you think your way through this, I suggest you start with your regular set up and lengthen your leader if you have issues in that situation. The act of experimentation will do far more to help you than 100 pages of this thread.
  13. I disagree with some of this. First, the choke guide is not placed to follow a line through the axle of the spool. It is placed following a formula based on the diameter of the spool. Reduction guides are placed following a line from the center of the spool at maximum extension to the bottom of the choke guide. The angle of the axle is irrelevant. Short choke rods basically swap out the last transition guide for a running guide. To determine whether your reel is acceptable for the rod, measure from the choke guide to about where you would expect the spool to end and divide by 27. This would tell you the diameter of the spool the rod builder anticipated would be used on the rod. Second, guide placement is not done based on the reel, but the line. Guides are placed, then tested with the line running through them using a static load test. This is done by using the line to flex the rod and checking that the line follows the arc of the rod as closely as possible. Guides that are too far apart will allow the line to drop off the rod which makes the rod less efficient. But, because aesthetics are also important, placement may be finessed so that the guide train is visually appealing. Because rod manufacturers cannot know what reel you plan to use, factory rods are built to be kind of a compromise. But here's the kicker: rods set up to cast well may be less effective at fighting fish. That is because cheating the gathering guide closer to the butt engages the rod in its power zone, but cheating the gathering guide further out may improve the line flow for the cast. I say may because the ring size and guide height also have an impact. Hey, how did I get in the mod queue?
  14. I did as a kid. My brothers and I would fill a bucket each. 75-100 a day. We ate some and my Dad would use the rest as fertilizer. He would pay us a nickel a pound. In hindsight, I am not real proud of that.
  15. Reread the op and agree with everyone else. Without the level wind it is most likely he is not doing what I am.