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About numbskull

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    1,000 Post Club!


  • About Me:
    Patient wife, impatient dog
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fish, cycle, make things, screw up things, and embarrass myself.

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    Cape Cod
  1. And the Fenwick grip.......basically a 1/2 wells though nowadays those are typically reversed. This one drew my interest because of a post on a rodbuilding site that described the US casting coaches experimenting with it for competition distance rods. I turned one on a 10wt RPLX I rebuilt but have not cast it yet enough to have any opinion.
  2. Then there are Maniform grips. A lot of guys, including some experts, swear by them. I'd love to try one sometime.
  3. Great. You're all set then. Thanks for sharing.
  4. Hi Herb. I don't know who Montague is/was but I suspect he was trying to get you to use the V-grip (which I show above). The pivot/pressure point is the base of the forefinger (not the web) with the rod stabilized on each side by the thumb and cocked forefinger. It allows you to use your wrist more in a throwing motion than a chopping motion on the delivery cast. You actually pull on the swell of the grip during translation (as you slide and drag the rod forward before beginning rotation) then snap the rod over by straightening your wrist and squeezing with the bottom three fingers. Provided you have the trajectory right (i.e., you've not broken the 180 degree rule) the increase in tip speed is appreciable. The same loosening and tightening of the grip to turnover the rod tip is used in accuracy work (typically with the thumb on top instead of a Vgrip) only the hand opens much, much less because a much smaller arc is used and there is no need for layback or slide. I don't practice this much but when I do it is immediately obvious how much less arm motion is needed and how the small muscles of the hand can create more precise motions than the larger muscles of the arm (wrist and elbow). The other benefit of a loose grip that cradles the rod in your fingers is that tracking errors are immediately apparent. If the rod gets off line your hand can't turn it over and the whole cast you need to correct things rather than power thru with a death grip. The grips I showed were designed 100years ago by E. Powell......who I think is acknowledged as one of the finest rod builders ever. Seems there's a good chance he may have understood how the ergonomics of a grip can enhance a cast.....or do people think he was just winging it? PS Herb....... I don't know G Roberts either but I suspect he would be OK with a V-Grip. It is pretty common in distance casting. The thumb exerts side pressure to keep the rod on the base of the forefinger joint. For a thumb on top grip it needs to stay against the rod since it is the fulcrum your lower fingers pull against during rotation. The thumb on top is also useful for stopping on the backcast, after which many distance guys will grip shift to a V grip for the forward delivery. Here is a picture of the grip used for accuracy by an excellent competitive caster/teacher from the SL site. He uses the thumb and forefinger to create the pivot/fulcrum then pulls the rod into the heel of his hand with the lower fingers to create the stop.
  5. Perhaps “pivot” is a poor term? Grip lightly, squeeze to stop. The handle moves around a fulcrum in your hand located either between the thumb and forefinger or against the base of the forefinger. The other three fingers pull on the lower part of the handle as a lever driving it back to a stop against the heel of your hand. Doing so is key to both distance and accuracy. The degree of motion varies with the degree of casting arc needed. Pictured below would be for a long cast.
  6. The grip should allow the rod to pivot as your hand opens and closes during a cast. A narrow base and forward (rather than midgrip) swell works well for me. B in this picture look ideal.
  7. Wait a minute. Green mirror are meant to increase contrast to help with sight fishing. For that they are great. But they turn everything yellow which is annoying if you don’t need it. I have a set and use them for bonefishing. For surf stuff, inshore boat stuff, and general use color neutral grey lenses are much nicer. No way in hell I’d choose to wear amber lenses all day unless I’m flats fishing.
  8. I've had good luck with the Sage Spectrum LT 7/8 so far. Only runs a few pounds of drag but that has been fine for albies and bonefish. On fleabay you can get a new one with a free flyline which blunts the cost significantly. At 6oz it is lighter than most 4" spool sealed drag options out there. That said the Nautilus XL mentioned above is even lighter.
  9. Thanks Frans, I've not been able to find this info on the SA site. It will be very helpful to me. They're going to make you delete the link as links to other commercial sites are not allowed. I don't know much about the heavy Titan lines but I suspect what you are considering would work. All the best.
  10. Just a thought. I'm pretty sure guys Spey-scandi-skagit casting are using different lines than a typical WF taper. It is very difficult to roll cast a thin running line. Generally you need the thicker head inside the rod tip.
  11. Good work! My turn to learn something. Where did you find the info on the full head weight of the SA lines? That's something I've had no success in locating. Thanks As for my reasoning, part of it is in what you posted above. There is plenty of weight in the full head of either line to work with any 7wt rod no matter how stiff. If one has trouble casting either line on a 7wt then the best fix is a better stroke rather than the bandaid of a different rod or heavier line. A second reason is that if you need/want a long headed line then it implies you are able to carry the full head plus the rod length plus the haul length. With the Infinity we are talking about 63' and with the Standard almost 70'. Carrying that length line is not simple and requires a good energized backcast. If you know how to make an energized back cast then the difference in 1/2 line weight for the first 30' on a short cast is meaningless. Most people have poor backcasts (for 30 years I was exhibit A). The resultant slack makes them lose tension in the line. They misinterpret this as a failure of the rod to "load" so they over-line the rod. People with a poor backcast also can't carry much line so they do better with shorter heavier heads. They struggle in wind because such heads need to be shot and that is a loser's game with floating lines into stiff wind (thin dense shooting heads and thin running lines are a different story). Better casters carry a long line and deliver the fly without shoot, using the increased rod leg line tension to drive turnover. Some world class casters can carry long lengths of short headed lines but they are a rare exception. Now a truly good caster has more length and weight with which to work with the Standard line and this can translate into a bit longer cast both in a situation where line is shot and in a situation where line is just carried to the target (as discussed above) but practically speaking very few of us are throwing 80' (line plus leader) with turnover into stiff wind nor are we shooting to 110-120' in fishing situations......if ever. The head length of the Infinity, therefore, is plenty for almost all fishing situations. It may also shoot a bit further than the Standard if the full head is not carried since you don't need to pull the heavier remaining head up and out the rod. Frans, I don't know how old you are or how experienced you are so excuse me if this seems presumptive, but my biggest regret after 35 years of fly fishing is that I didn't learn to cast correctly from the outset and I wasted time, money, and innumerable chances at fish blaming my rods and lines instead.
  12. Hi Frans Both the Standard and Infinity have moderate front tapers (like most bonefish lines) and presentation of flies typically used on a 7wt will be fine.......depending more on leader used and trajectory chosen. I note, however, your prior post on the same subject raised concerns about wind and large flies. I think it also specified you wanted a long-headed line (rather than a long front taper) and it sounded as if you felt more comfortable with over-lining the rod (hence your consideration of an 8wt Standard). All this suggests uncertainty both in what you need and what you and your rod can handle. I can go into great detail on my reasoning if you want but your best step here is to buy the 7wt Mastery Infinity. It is an excellent all-around line. If you have trouble casting it with any 7wt rod then look for the solution through lessons rather than changing lines or rods. You'll be very glad you did.
  13. LOL. Great post.
  14. Pretty hard to fight a powerful fish with a low rod butt angle when the fish is 50’ below your feet and there is a gunnel in the way. At some point you need to lift and the strain on the butt section is appreciable.
  15. I use a 7wt Amplitude infinity smooth for bonito and smaller albies and it works fine, although water temps are above 70 by then. The Mastery Standard is an excellent line as well. True to weight with a 55ft head. I've been throwing a 6wt for practice all winter in temps as low as 30 and have been very pleased with it. Just ordered another in 8wt. The line I use the most for May and June fishing is a 7wt Airflo cold water striper intermediate. SA makes a cold-medium water intermediate based on the same taper as the Infinity ( Sonar Camo Intermediate) in 8,9,10 that looks promising as well.