numbskull

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About numbskull

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  • About Me:
    60+
    Retired
    Patient wife, impatient dog
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fish, cycle, make things, screw up things, and embarrass myself.

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    Cape Cod
  1. Bonito are rarely fussy like albies. They love silversides and any appropriately sized white fly will work well. For years I have used a very simple bunny fly and never found reason to change Cut a piece of pearl easy body tubing about 1/4" longer than the hook shank. Burn a small hole 1/4" from the end and thread the hook through it. Make a loop of mono and run it through the tube along the hook shank and out the protruding end. Pass a 3" hunk of rabbit strip and 4 strands of crystal flash through the loop and pull it back through the tube. Lash both down at the head. Stick on some eyes and cover with epoxy. Get it in front of them and they will eat it.
  2. Once you get one on a fly rod I think you'll regret the time you spent chasing them with spinning tackle. Not that that is necessarily a good thing.
  3. If you can create good loops then start paying attention to always feeling and maintaining line tension with your line hand. Some tension should always be present including at the finish of your backcast and start of your forward cast. Many beginners loose tension by either throwing open sagging downward loops on their backcast or failing to maintain a constant distance between the collector guide and line hand as the rod starts forward. If you loose that tension it means you've introduced slack into the line and your arm and rod motion will be squandered removing it before you can start moving the end of the fly line. Casting into the wind actually helps with learning this since the wind helps blow slack out of your backcast. Conversely, casting with a tailwind is counterproductive as it holds up the backcast (particularly a poor one) and makes it hard to maintain line tension unless you shorten your carry and consciously work to increase your line speed (hard for many of us).
  4. drmevo, Only about 15% of the energy imparted into your line comes from the stored spring effect (i.e., "loading") of the rod. Efforts aimed at increased "loading" are just going result in mis-directed, and mistimed excessive force application. Good luck with that. As crunch explained, the rod acts as a flexible lever to amplify your arm and wrist movements. It is those amplified movements, not the spring action of the rod, that accelerate the line and propel the cast. The main purpose of the flex of the rod is not to store energy but rather to allow you to translate those arm and wrist motions into a (mostly) straight line path while still maintaining a bio-mechanically efficient casting motion. Such a straight line path (SLP) is basic and crucial (but in and of itself not sufficient) to a good cast. Achieving it (for most of us) it requires some sort of feedback....either an instructor or learning enough to understand what the shape of our loops and fly leg means. What you are interpreting as trouble "loading" your rod with the Airflo is actually a loss of line momentum/tension. That means slack........ and imparting slack into your cast is a death-knell for any hope of achieving a decent cast. Achieving a SLP will help with that but there is a lot more to it. There is a lot to learn. As others have suggested take some lessons or spend a lot of time on an organized site dedicated to casting such as the one suggested by crunch. You will be very glad you did.
  5. You are making a major error concentrating on how far you cast at this stage and focusing on your equipment. Been there and done that. To improve you need to concentrate instead on how WELL you cast. What did your loops look like? Where the top and bottom legs parallel and close together or divergent arcs? Is the fly leg (i.e., the top leg) traveling parallel to the ground or in an arc? When you drop your back cast to the ground behind you does it layout straight on a line from your target, or squiggly and off to one side? Or, even worse, in a collapsed pile? How much effort and arm travel are you expending? Are you hitting the ground behind you? Are you feeling line tension through your line hand continuously through out the cast (until release)? If any of these questions reveal a problem do you understand fly casting dynamics enough to diagnose what is causing it and how to remedy it? Technique.......not equipment......is the road to becoming a proficient caster. Repetitive practice with bad technique creates long term problems and frustrations (been there and done that as well). Correcting bad technique requires knowledge. Which is different than internet advice. If you are serious about fly fishing seeking out that knowledge will help you far more than expensive rods and various fly lines.
  6. It is not the line and it is not the rod. It is a major line velocity issue related to casting flaws......probably a whole set of them.
  7. Such a classic outfit. Looks well used and well cared for as well. Cool to see.
  8. Bumping this up. Still looking for an old rod to strip and rebuild. Thanks
  9. Airflo

    The Sniper won't likely be much better. It is related to the design of the line. WF lines in general don't roll cast well, or at all, until some of the head is inside the rod tip. The less head you have to work with the less distance you can roll cast it.
  10. Airflo

    Be careful here. I have the Airflo sniper in an intermediate and I HATE it. It is thicker than a garden hose and heavier than a lead pipe. My 8 weight has a 32ft head that weighs 330grains. It is 1.7mm in diameter. Can you say "11 weight"? Because that is what it is (except a real 11 weight intermediate would be much thinner). Throwing it on an 8wt rod is just plain gross. On a stiff 9 wt it is usable and handles fine (although its short head and monstrous weight prevents any meaningful line carry). Maybe on a two hand rod it would be fine. I also own an Airflo striper cold water intermediate...........which is an excellent line....but that's another story.
  11. Find a copy of "The Fly Fisherman's Guide to Boston Harbor" by Jack Gartside. It will take some work since it is out of print, although a revised edition is supposed to be released in "spring 2018" through his website. The author himself is dead so who knows if or when this will happen. While looking, read what you can find by Gartside. He was an eccentric character (and one who thought outside the box) who was widely recognized as one of the very best fly fisherman of his time ( I think he invented the gurgler fly). His home base was Boston Harbor and no one I have heard of fished it as long, as successfully, and as thoroughly as Gartside.
  12. The cosmetics and layout look great. What are your impressions of how the rod casts and with what loads?
  13. The way you are tying your clousers is fine. The problem is your backcast and leader length. The damage shown to the fly (after just 10' of use) is not from expected "wear", it is from hitting the ground on your backcast. I should know, I'm an expert at bad backcasts and ruined clousers. This is what happens to me and I suspect you are doing something similar. Like most bad casters I have a tendency to throw my backcast backwards rather than upwards, and with a vague rather than sharp stop. When the rod finally does stop the tip counterflex then directs the line downward. It also opens the backcast loop and the large loop then redirects the momentum of the weighted fly up, over, and downward as the loop turns over. With a long leader the fly ends up well below the already too low line as it starts forward. It ticks the ground and the eye's lead stem, already bent by thread tension, bends more and breaks. So in addition to using brass eyes instead of lead, watch your backcast. Try to throw it more upward, and stop the rod sharply to generate a tight loop before starting to drift the rod back and down (while maintaining line tension). To give yourself a bigger margin for error, shorten your leader as much as fishing conditions allow. Timing also plays a role. Start forward too early and the backward traveling loop will accelerate and snap the leader and fly over and down more forcefully. Too late (i.e., by the time you feel a tug) and the line/leader/fly system will be dropping fast. Easier said than done, however.
  14. I heard Nantucket Sound was good. I did poorly in BB yesterday midday and I didn't see anyone else do well on Cleveland Ledge. Found plenty of bass on the way home, however. Didn't mark as much bait as usual. Nice being out there again, anyways.
  15. They don't grow that fast. Again this year I am catching some tiny fish 8-10" long. Too small to be from the Chesapeake I think (supposedly they don't leave there until their third year?). I suspect they are either from the Hudson or perhaps from local rivers.