numbskull

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About numbskull

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  • About Me:
    60+
    Retired
    Patient wife, impatient dog
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fish, cycle, make things, screw up things, and embarrass myself.

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    Cape Cod
  1. Another comment on your clousers. They look heavy on the crystal flash. If you are throwing them in deep or cloudy water (or for aggressive fish like bluefish/jacks) that much flash may be fine. If you are throwing them in shallow water to fish you have sighted a lot of crystal flash can be a turn off and using just a few strands may work better. Also, in addition to just clousers and deceivers you may find a pattern called a "half and half", which is basically a weighted deceiver, a useful fly. It gives you the wider baitfish pattern with more up and down movement than a deceiver, and more tail feather action than a clouser.
  2. Some thoughts. Are you fishing from shore or boat? Day or night? Do you have sandeels in NC? Do you have worm hatches in NC? Squid? Usually when fishing for striped bass at night I would throw sand eel/spearing imitations worked on or just subsurface. A sparse deceiver can do this but there are a lot better patterns. And fish can be incredibly fussy so you need them in 1/4 -1/2" increments for when fish are popping everywhere but not taking. Paradoxically, when fish are on small stuff you can sometimes cull large fish by throwing a very big deceiver (or other bulky pattern) to imitate squid.........which come in to eat the small bait and, in turn, are hunted by large bass. Worm hatches are a big draw for fly fishermen up here and most guys carry a selection of worm flies on the chance they may encounter one. Again the fish can be very picky about size. For nighttime fishing you want flies that don't foul when cast. If I lived in NC I'd also be tying albie flies (and beating my head against a wall) to prepare for that fishery.
  3. I've considered trying this in the past but have a hard time thinking of a light filler, such as cork, that would seal tightly enough against the side of the spool to prevent the backing from slipping between it and the spool face when under load.
  4. Your conclusion fails to take into account the weight of the extra backing required on the small arbor reel. The normal arbor reel will weigh several ounces more than the wide arbor reel when full (and even more once the backing gets wet). Since a 4" reel is heavy to start with, the extra weight is becomes a factor well worth considering. And if you doubt the 2+ oz figure for backing, here are some pictures. These spools are 3.5". One has 2.25" of bone dry #20 micron (a bit less than 200yds as I recall.....certainly not more). The empty spool weighs 3oz, the one with the backing 4.73 oz. Now figure that a 4" reel will need another 1/2" of backing to get to the size of most wide arbors (2.75") and you can figure in at least another ounce of weight. Then get it wet. It seems to me you're talking 3-4oz of extra weight cost for using a narrow arbor reel. To me, that seems significant disadvantage.
  5. There is room for both approaches.......and the very best fishermen do both. The unexpected fish that teaches you something new is WAY more valuable than big numbers of fish from a pattern you already know. Looking back over more than 5 decades of fishing my biggest regret is that I did not realize this much sooner.
  6. A couple of thoughts. If you have flats at the head of the bay there is a good chance fish will move onto them as the tide rises and then off again with the drop. They may well be eager to get in there and root for crabs so fishing real shallow on the rise might be worth a shot and try to fish water only 2-3 ft deep. As the tide drops, dredging deeper areas or channels draining the flat ought to pay off as fish will lie in there waiting for the tide to bring them food. When fishing rocks during the day, bass are often very, very close to shore. They lay in there because large baitfish like herring and bunker try to avoid them by hugging the shoreline. Try to lay your casts almost on the shore, and definitely throw uptide of any inside rock you can see particularly in the spring. A floating line and bulky fly is good for this. Bass will come up from 15-18' to hit something on the surface if it is large enough or making enough commotion to seem worth their while....and if water visibility is good enough for them to see it (yeah, I now they can feel it through their lateral line but reaction strikes are more visually triggered in my experience). Fishing stuff on top over deep structure is often worth the effort. A depth charge line with a short leader is a very useful tool when blind casting from a boat, and even more so if there is current involved. Although the line sinks quickly, you can control depth by starting your retrieve earlier and increasing retrieval speed. The line will cast much better than a floater and this helps throw larger flies without needing to use heavier rods. Using a fly rod is an inefficient way to fish. You can up your odds by concentrating your efforts on structure and continuing to move rather than drifting blindly and beating the water. Structure is rocks, ledges, channels.........but also current seams. Look for places where current crosses deep water then hits a shoreline and is deflected (often there is a back eddy as well) Where the water collides with the shore and is deflected in a different direction there will be bass around the first rock that deflected current hits. Count on it.
  7. Just to stir the pot a bit and engender some discussion, I disagree with the idea you should try to match the hatch when fishing for striped bass by day in rocks unless you find fish blitzing on a particular small bait. Sure, at night (when silhouette can be important and fish feed in a more leisurely steady pace) size and shape can be critical. Likewise, by day over sand and in shallow water where fish know the prey can't get away and they have time to examine it then, yes, matching the hatch matters. By day over rocks, however, bass (particularly large ones) are most often opportunistic, ambush and reaction feeders. If you focus on structure and give them something they find hard to refuse (i.e., big) you will do better then if you try to match the small bait in the vicinity. In my experience large and slow with lots of commotion (easy pickings better get it before another fish does) or large and very fast with brief pauses (lots of calories about to get away better act fast) is the ticket to quality fish. Unfortunately, fishing this way with a fly rod can quickly become more work than fun, particularly when the going gets tough. You can, however, cheat a bit by using length rather than bulk. Back in the day we used to throw clousers...... tied sparse (pencil thick) with about 7-8" of nylon fishhair and a little flash........on fast sinking 250gr lines retrieved with fast long strips (creating a lot of deep up and down action) when blind casting with 9wt rods along rocky shores. These flies didn't look like anything in nature but bass love long and skinny and they worked well.
  8. I don't think this is entirely correct. Saltwater is denser than freshwater and therefore floating lines for saltwater do not need to be as thick (i.e., have as many micro bubbles) as their freshwater brethren. I think that line companies adjust for this. If so, a FW floating line will work in SW but not cast as well because of greater air resistance. A SW floater may sink (or at least float lower and be harder to pickup) in freshwater.
  9. What works, works.......but my experience with Berkley Vanish leader material (#30) while using it on plugging tackle was very poor. I threw away a spool of it after losing numerous fish and plugs to knot failure (something I almost never experience otherwise). That was some years ago but no way I'd ever trust it again.
  10. The weight of the length of line that you to carry is what matters. An 8 wt bonefish line (SA say) will weigh 210gr at 30' but the whole head weighs 270 gr. Good casters will carry that whole head just outside the rod tip so they will be throwing 270 grains of line. A typical overweighted short head 8wt line may weigh 270 grains at 30', but the head ends at 30' so you'll only be carrying that much outside the rod tip and the "overweighted" line will load the rod the same as the "standard" weight line when both are used as intended. Airflow lines such as the sniper line is 2 weights oversized......the same way a shooting head would typically be......which is basically what the line is (an integrated shooting head). The ridge intermediate striper line is, I think, a true weight line but has a long head so if you carry a lot of line it will load the rod similar to a higher weighted line with a shorter head.
  11. If the rod represented a substantial improvement over what is out there now, lets say it would let most guys cast 150' consistently, I would buy it in an instant and one helluva lot of other people would buy it as well. $5000 is small change for what most people spend on themselves each year for leisure activity. Would you rather have a 1 week trip to some fly fishing lodge or something that would improve the quality of your fishing for years thereafter?
  12. Well done and very interesting.
  13. I think you mean the Hassan's (Bill and Shelia). I think Shelia is the only MCI certified instructor in Eastern MA. She has a website, Cast90, and has written some books. I'm pretty sure Bill is a member of this board. If anyone used them for private lessons I'd be interested on hearing more about your experience by pm.
  14. And therein is the rub. There is no end of instructors/friends who can tell you what you should correct........the trick is finding the teacher who understands WHY you have the problem and can tell you HOW to change about your body dynamics and movement to actually correct it. And those people are rare as hen's teeth.
  15. Search "bill gammel making adjustments on the fly ". The resultant excellent link can help you understand what is going on with drift............but for most casters there is a lot to learn about maintaining a straight rod tip path (SLP), controlling the "stop" and resultant loop formation, the importance of a good straight (in all 3 dimensions) backcast, avoidance of excessive or premature power application, and maintaining line tension that are all necessary before one gets much by drifting the rod. I know because I've been drifting the rod since day one (25 years ago) and my casting still sucked for most of that time. Rod drift without the rest of the above usually results in a tailing loop.