Benfromnbx

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About Benfromnbx

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  1. No the body would need to be changed too. I forgot to update the post after I called him.
  2. I would bet the step in the mainshaft hydro locks inside the pinion bore. It’s a super tight fit.
  3. I reached out to Rob this am about the stainless parts (pinion and main shaft) he said that they can be added as a purchase during a factory service. I also asked him about a gen 2 upgrade kit he sounded open to that idea and said that he would hop on here and answer some of the questions regarding the gen 1 early adopters. Hope that helps.
  4. Sorry I’m not affiliated with Visser just a very needy customer. I would reach out to Visser about the body upgrade. I know Rob was having supply chain issues like everyone else so not sure where they stand with gen 2 upgrade parts.
  5. I guess u could call me a tester or a consumer whatever u prefer haha. Most of the stainless parts I have in the reels will be available for purchase at some point from Visser. I think Rob just wanted an outside opinion on them and I was driving him nuts. I give him a ton of credit for always picking up my calls! I don’t think the body is upgradable without replacing it but u could shoot them an email and I’m sure they will let u know.
  6. Thanks man I’ll try that. What micron size do u use and what ratio. I have 1 micron instock at work. I mix it with molten paraffin wax for bicycle chain lube. As far as Krytox goes I’ve only found a use for the 215 on carbide rich stainless steel gears the 204 and 227 live on my useless shelf haha. Thanks man I’ll try that. What micron size do u use and what ratio. I have 1 micron instock at work. I mix it with molten paraffin wax for bicycle chain lube. As far as Krytox goes I’ve only found a use for the 215 on carbide rich stainless steel gears the 204 and 227 live on my useless shelf haha.
  7. Thanks man I’ll try that. What micron size do u use and what ratio. I have 1 micron instock at work. I mix it with molten paraffin wax for bicycle chain lube. As far as Krytox goes I’ve only found a use for the 215 on carbide rich stainless steel gears the 204 and 227 live on my useless shelf haha.
  8. Thanks man I’ll try that. What micron size do u use and what ratio. I have 1 micron instock at work. I mix it with molten paraffin wax for bicycle chain lube. As far as Krytox goes I’ve only found a use for the 215 on carbide rich stainless steel gears the 204 and 227 live on my useless shelf haha.
  9. The screw holes in the side cover have a tiny oring that gets kind of mangled when u torque them down I swapped mine for nylon washers. The side cover also isn’t round but utilizes a stretched oring for its perimeter seal. Round orings won’t stay uniform when stretched around strange shapes so seams like a point of water entry. Plenty of dunks when landing fish from a seated position but no reeling under water for sure other than the OG bucket test.
  10. I put both reels in a bucket of fresh water overnight before I originally tore them down, and gave them both a few turns while submerged and didn’t se any water in the body or the drag. If I were using them in the surf I would put either tef-gel or silicone under the side cover and the side cover screws. The side cover has a complex shape to it and would be very tough to seal. A little help between the cover/body and the bodyscrew heads would be a good idea. I’m sure it would also voice the warranty.
  11. Krytox 215 for the gear. I have used slide way oils and gear oils before for some vs reels. I won’t use it in anything that has a plastic spring type AR bearing or a slow speed oscillation system. They are pretty sensitive (clutches can slip/heavy feeling) to oils especially when cold. I like motorex supergliss 68 and 32 for summer and winter.
  12. Here is a tear down of my gen 2 Visser #4. I’ve fished two of these reels hard over the last 6 months from the kayak in Ri. They have proven to be reliable and have needed minimal maintenance to keep spinning. I wouldn’t say they came out of the box perfect (little sticky) but I will say any questions or parts I needed were almost instantly answered/fulfilled by Visser. I’m a rookie poster so hope this scatter brain post is helpful. These reels will serve proudly next to my saltiga bj’s, Certate’s and saragosa’s.The drag knob is fully sealed internally and features a coil spring for preload and drag progression. The nylon disc that interfaces with the clicker detent is a little cheesy though and showing signs of wear. I wish the knob clicker disc was swapped out for a quality stainless piece and the design of the under spool clicker were rethought. If that happens I would call the drag perfect for my needs as a northeast inshore angler.The full drag stack assembles on the hub is quite impressive. The drag consists of large upper and lower drag discs.The upper pressure disc (in the tweasers) has a small detent bearing in it to click when u turn your drag knob. I greased my drag washers with automatic grease similar to how daiwas tournament grease functions. It allows me to set my drag soft for less start up inertia but when a fish starts running the grease rapidly expands causing the drag to automatically tighten. Love this ****. Visser is playing around with a magic black powder (probably graphene or moly) that they are treating the drag washers with I have no experience with it yet though so can’t comment. The Visser drag has impressed. It has next to no start up inertia and plenty of stopping power when u need it. It’s fully sealed too with oil seals at the top and bottom. It has plenty of drag washers to divide out the work load more evenly than it’s surf reel competition as well. The entire hub is supported by two large cartridge bearing for great spools support under load and minimal tilting. U can’t shim it for different line thicknesses though but thankfully I had no issues with line lay. The (harder than alloy) titanium spools lip is a nice touch to. This reel is a GREAT caster.Drag is fully sealed and not surprisingly very similar to a VS. This oring retains the upper pressure plate to the main drag hub. The infamous drag clicker. Mine worked fine and was assembled correctly on both reels. I dislike the sound though it’s quieter than a muffled wader fart! Three stainless bolts hold the very rigid and lightweight alloy rotor to the beefy stainless rotors interior hub.Bail wire retaining nut doubles as the rollers counter weight. Nicely done.Polymer bushing that the bail arm rotates on. The bail arm assembly is magnificent! Best I have ever felt! Smooth as silk with an aggressive index and toggle point. Pic shows the well advertised bail spring piston. The line roller assembly is a single bearing affair. It is sealed on both sides and and is still spinning ok after six months. I do wish it had two bearings in it so that it was more rigid. Single bearing line rollers can lean under high drag setting causing the bearing to prematurely wear. Handle shaft had some light corrosion from the factory on it? I brushed it with a wire brush and sprayed it with corrosion x. Hasn’t came back since. Not sure if it was a byproduct of an acid bath or what but worth noting. Upgrade bearings for the handle knob assembly. Fully sealed and more corrosion resistant.Weird rubber cap that seals the outside of the knob. It works though!The handle knob spins on two cartridge bearings. It is sealed on the inside by this small oring and on the outside by a weird rubber cap. On one of my reels the knob bearings were rough because they were slightly over-shimmed. I replaced both with ceramic hybrid bocas’s but a custom bushing would be more appropriate at this location.The bottom of the rotor nut has a oring that seals against the rotors interior hub. The rotor nut is very wide/supportive and has a nice silicone rubber shaft seal pressed into it. I would like to see a bushing or a small bearing mounted inside it to insulate the mainshaft from the pinions rotation but we can’t get everything we want can we.The anti reverse bearing sits directly into the body not into a flange offering a direct connection during hookup. The bolt on flange pictures protects the rear of the rotor from loose loops of line. FYI The bolts that hold the flange on lead directly to the gearbox so a little bit of thread locker here is a necessity. Thankfully that was done at the factory. The rotors hub assembly intersects the anti reverse oil seal to close out water from this sensitive area. I love that the rotor uses a stainless hub to offer more rigidity than an all aluminum assembly. There is also a matrix type aater deglector to keep low pressure spray from even getting to the seal. Cool **** A+.The anti reverse housing cap is easily removed for service and has a oring on the rear and a oil seal on the front that intersects the rotors central hub assembly. The oils seal on the front of it was over greased from the factory. I used slick honey grease at this location to reduce stiction from the heavy factory lube.Service port. Great for u surf guys to check for water intrusion. Again a quality machined peice with a nicely fitted oring.The oscillation gear pin has this mounted oring and brass bearing mounted to its embedded pin. Thing of beauty.The side covers oring gland wasn’t finished very well. U can see that the threads are cut all the way down to the bottom so the oring doesn’t have a perfectly smooth gland to sit in. Not a big deal since the body is sealed at both openings by oil seals on the gear axle so this oring is just for keeping crap out of the cap.The new gen2 traverse block mounted to the mainshaft. Two quality machined peices. The main upgrade of the gen2 is this traverse block. In the first gen the traverse block slid directly on the body under load this one rolls on two permanently mounted cartridge bearing. It definitely improves the reels feel under load but it’s not perfect. I do prefer the rail mounted traverse guides that are used in reels like the makaira and saragosa because they stabilize the rear section of the main shaft better and allow the designers to open the ID of the pinion bore to minimize friction and contact with the mainshaft.The revised side cover (3 bolts instead of two) and oscillating gear. I love seeing a machined gear instead of a cast one. The oscillation gear has an imbedded stainless pin with brass bearing/oring on it to keep friction and clunks to a minimum. The side cover is sealed around its edge with a round oring not a custom gasket unfortunately. The handle opening is sealed with another quality oil seal that mounts inside the side cover and the handle cap is sealed with a redundant but appreciated oring. I replaced the side cover bolt orings with nylon washers (against Robs wishes). I hate it when stainless bolt heads sit directly against alloy. It usually damages the finish and opens the material up to the possibility of corrosion.I had no issues with the anti reverse it fits snugly in the main body and has been reliable in normal NE fishing temps of 90-40 degrees. It is of the plastic spring variety so it won’t last forever. I would prefer the INA clutches that are found in the makaira’s and x series van staals but this reel isn’t 1000$ either.This is the pinion/shaft/anti reverse assembly. The pinion is very well supported by three bearing but doesn’t feature any provisions for reduced shaft contact. It touches the main shaft all the way through its bore. It was heavily greased from the factory and was one of the causes of stickiness in the drivetrain. I used Motorex supergliss 32 slideway oil to lube it and it made a huge difference. I would love to see the inside of the pinion oversized so that it doesn’t touch the shaft but that’s impossible with the current design since the pinion is being used to stabilize the rear of the main shaft. This is another part Visser is playing with. It’s a 17-4 pinion. I used it in one of the reels for six months. It features a slightly wider bearing at the tail that can handle more side load from the main gear. After my six month tear down the reel with the brass pinion and smaller tail bearing had a little roughness to it (just the rear bearing) proving to me that the stainless pinion is a good option for an upgrade or for guys like me who commonly reel against a fish putting the pinion under huge side loads. Not sure if it is available for sale yet or if it will be included with the upcoming models. The main gear is a two piece all stainless construction. The main part of the gear is one solid piece (axle and main gear are all one piece) then the oscillation gear is pressed into the main gears axle. I like it better than the bolted or press fit versions commonly used by others. It ensures that the main gear will never slip on it axle since it is part of the axle. The stock drivetrain held up great. Looks like about 70% of the gear teeth are being utilized with minimal wear for both. The stock pinion. It’s a quality brass machined piece with rather large smooth teeth. I would describe the gear feel as “pretty good”. Its no shimano but it gets better with use and can definitely benefit from a gear specific grease. The stock alloy anodized spool shaft.This stainless spool shaft (17-4) is something Visser is playing around with. It’s a beast and I think should be available to purchase soon if not already as an upgrade for hacks like me. I fish primarily night time surf from a kayak in heavy current so when I snag I need to clear it and get away from the rocks and the swells. I have been known to bend a spool shaft from time to time. The stock alloy spool shaft is light and works perfectly fine but the stainless 17-4 is surely stronger. Ok hope this helps with some of the questions I’ve seen posted. All in all I like the reels. They are far from perfect but if you’re like me and like weird new stuff they might be right for u! I’ll be smiling next year fishing mine!
  13. I use hybrid bearings. Most full ceramics that I have tried do not have acceptable amounts of play. I like the 440 stainless races with peek nylon cages and sic bearings. They are quiet and very durable. I will update the post when I get the parts. Spoiler alert it’s gonna be a while.
  14. Yup both oscillation gears are very soft and that wouldn’t normally be an issue but the oscillation gear bearing has huge amounts of lateral play in it and the nylon trust washer underneath it isn’t thick enough to keep the gear aligned under load. I’m going to run a ortech bearing in it and shim the trust washer. I just need the replacement gears for both reels first. The shop I got them from thankfully took care of me on the back end since penn wasn’t able too. Actually I’m a high end bicycle mechanic by trade.
  15. The rotor nut is under that cover. It’s slotted so that it engages the nut without having to over-tighten or loosen it. The cover keeps the rotor nut from backing off and holds the main shaft seal down.