Sponxx

Thanks Will check them out

Thanks guys. Some updates. My Maui Jim's were bought in 2007, so quite old. I ordered a set of the fanciest lenses that Revant offered. Will try those, and see if the poly+polarized+anti-glare is good. I contacted Costa, but didn't "file a claim", apparently I can do that on their website. The person I was on the chatbox with, referred me to a link and that is where I saw the cost of replacement lenses (about $100).Hopefully I can get those replaced by CDM under warranty, as the glasses are from July 2021 I have other sunglasses to get me by, 2 other sets of MJs (hand downs that my parents didn't like) and a pair of RayBans I am using for driving.

Hey guys, I have been searching the forum and have found lots of threads on different recommendations for lenses. I have a pair of old Maui Jims model now discontinued (Shoreline MJ114) that I loved the clarity of the lens and neutral tone of the grey lens. Over time the lens cracked, sent to MJ, but they didn't have replacement lenses. They are still usable but there is a crack which doesn't impede vision Last year I bought a pair of Costas Blue mirror 580G WhiteTip. With these I felt the color popped a bit more towards reddish/copper in a pleasant way. Last month I dropped them and one of the lenses cracked, now unusable Fit with the MJs was a bit more comfy I think, but both have their niche uses. So my question is regarding replacement lenses Are there OEM replacement for the MJs? I have found Revant and Fuse replacement and lenses for the both, but seem to be polycarbonate, CDM has 580G lenses for 100$ on their website Any preferences vs the original glass ones? I am a bit of a snob for good quality VISION (not brands) and I love the glass on both Thanks

You can consider a Daiwa Whisker SS700, The SS series has excellent line management and they cast quite far. Should have enough drag for almost nay freshwater fish

Daiwa sizing tends to run big. For that rod a 2500 or even a 2000BG would've been fine. They are about the same size as shimano or Penn 3ks, so the NASCI 2500 isn't quite the same as a BG2500. My 3k BG is equal in line capacity as a battle 4000 and quite close to Stradic 5000. The BG3500 is same size as a BG4000 except spool capacity. Same deal with the 2500 and 3k. Drag ratings matter, though a bit less than what we think, especially with braided lines. Unless you are fishing for big fish and heavy cover or rocks, you probably don't need a heavy line and high drag to turn them quick.

A friend of mine gave me a Stradic FJ 5000 which was grinding and "slippping". I have never taken apart any of these reels, and it appears to be that there is probably some stripping on either the main gear or the worm gear pinion. I will pull it apart, clean and tighten things up and figure out what needs changed. Probably get some carbontex washers if the current ones are bust. If parts are needed, is shimano the best place to get them? If parts are out, would any other models of 5000 size reels share the pinion gear and main gear that would fit a Straidc 5000FJ ? And of course, at what cost threshold would it just be best to toss it and get a new reel? Thanks a lot

I also had thaat thought early on in my fishing "career". if you want a 220lb fish, well better get that 20lb test line. Long stiff rods, high capacity reels. Over time and with experience (whether self acquired or passed on) you notice that the reel is for most fish, just a place to store line, and a lot has to do with the rod and action. That is why people comment on balance and pairing certain pieces of gear together. Can you toss lures all day with a 12' and 8k? yes, but it comes at a physical toll, and people have different tolerances. Then there are the masters of finesse fishing, that will set a record on 4lb line, but that requires a lot of experience. For me, and the kind of fishing I do, 20oz reel is on the heavy side for lure throwing all day. For Peruvian Corvinas and Flounder I use a 9'2 rod that is 5.5oz and rated 1/2-1.5oz, though it can cast 2 1/2oz jigs without trouble, it is paired with a BG3000 and had a Penn Battle 4000 in the past, also has seen a borrowed Stradic 5000. Here in Texas I have a freshwater Shimano Volteus 7M/F with a Daiwa SS1300 for light lures and even popping corks. The big bait rods (11ft Penn Prevail and 9ft UglyStik ) have BG5000 and Battle 6k, good for bull reds and small sharks. Those would be too heavy to cast all day. Now, tossing big lures with a shorter heavier action rod off a boat or pier may not be too bad on those reels.

Buddha, So funny, we were talking about Peru and fishing, this video you posted if off one of the surf fishing shops in Peru. DUO Lures and european products are quire common for the type of surf fishing that is done there. Thinking back along my comment on jerkbaits vs hardbaits - I think I got lost in translations, and to me the subtleties of the jerk vs regular hardbait technique were lost in translation. As you mention, technique is different, and we do use different approaches and presentation, depending on the water conditions. Rarely we have calm water to do finesse approaches. Interestingly there is basically 1 single word in Peru for any kind of hardbait (whether it is jerk/crank/hard - "Señuelo" o "Muestra"); jigs we call "chispa"; Spoons are "cuchara" - but anything else hard is just called "muestra". Soft or swimbaits called "vinilos" - and as I mentioned those are just making an appearance in the recent 4-5years.

I think he refers to a new Daiwa BG handle, not just the knob. If your 38mm had some play, try and stack some of the shimming washers on it and see if it gets better. The thread locking loctite should only stabilize screws, not the actual handle-shaft interface

I agree with your comment on Jerking the plugs vs continuous retrieves. Different styles and one has to find what the fish wants. Continuous retrieves are mostly used due to the need to cover a lot of water rapidly. Corvinas (something like weakfish) do well with jigs/spoons and hardbaits, but those are a lot more aggressive when they bite and many times it is an instinctive attack, though they will bump the lures several times if you just keep reeling. I'm heading back to Peru in a few weeks, and hopefully will be able to fish. We will also being in an area up north, near the Equator which has a completely different fishery (snook, grouper, AJs, etc) than the one I'm used too in colder waters.

Surf fishing for flounder in Peru is done mainly with jerkbaits or fresh dead silverside fish threaded on 4/0-6/0 J hooks. More recently people have been trialing softplastics on jigheads. Bombers, SP minnows, DUO beachwalkers/tideminnows/fulcrums, Yozuri's, really an sinking or suspending jerkbait would work. Colors are the classic green/blues/silvers match the hatch or the aggressive pinks/chartreuse and dark ones. Funny how there is converging evolution in the fishing methods, and it proves that when you are on the fish, anything will catch, some are just better

Was able to remove the 45mm knob and shaft with a heat gun, grunting and some elbow grease. I filled out the bigger drill hole on the original handle with a bead of JB steelstik putty, along the rim, kind of setting a drain on a sink. Then drilled it to the correct size again and installed the 38mm knob. Much much better feel and balance. Will keep the 45mm for the originally intended 5000BG or a 6000 Penn Battle, whichever knob melts first

I don't mind the gomexus one, but the 45mm is too much. 38mm will better I have been unable to find a handle for sale, still awaiting contact back from Daiwa.

Im at that same point where I don't want to keep throwing money at it, but I do have the appropriate size Gomexus knob (38mm).

I have not caught anything huge on my SS2600, but I have a SS1300 as a light lure reel. Have battled some slot reds and ~6-7lbs trouts and on my rod it will cast a mile those 3/4oz - 1oz lures