TopStriperAngler

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  1. Good idea. I been putting boards against fences at an angle and then sevearl traps facing opposite ways under that. But unbaited. I got a roll of of the recommended copper mesh that they don't like to chew through along with with 1/4" I think chicken wire to cover or fill all the holes I could find in exterior of house.
  2. That's interesting. They say how u should tie down traps. Especially inside where u don't want a rat to die out of reach. But makes sense for outside too given what u had happen. One problem I had with baited snap trap was a raccoon getting his foot caught then getting caught in crook of a bush. Started using unbaited traps along likely runs after that. Cover them with boards to keep raccoons away. Kill a rat every now and then.
  3. Thanks Tman for the offer. I really appreciate it. Well I think I'm going to play around with this carpenter's stuff for now and see if i can get to work. Like you say about the bondo under epoxy should be fine. And the real reason for filling the pores is to prevent the pores mussing the paint and topcoat. Almost doesn't matter if it gets washed away later I guess.
  4. Pseg what did you have to do to the d-box to exclude rodents going forward? That's a scary story. We had rats eat through new A/C ducts...pretty expensive.
  5. Mike how's the sluggo attach to the pin--twist loc or some thing? Thank you.
  6. What's the most spreadable of this stuff? I'd like something to fill in pores especially in cast resin foam plugs. But looking for something could be used on some wood too. Also need to sand down real easy. The epoxy stuff is a little too hard to sand to use for pore sealing. Because to sand it down you end up removing a fair amoutn of too.
  7. Any idea what happens when it gets water into it? This Elmer's Carpenter's wood filler is a bust. It washes off with water so it's a no go.
  8. Yeah I was pleasantly surprised to see that. Maybe its the tail fin nub that helps. I tried out the horizontal tailfins yesterday and another surprise they were very effective. Turned it into a darter basically. Pretty small little pieces of metal. If u bent the metal upwards the lure would hop out of the water on the retrieve--a frog? Need to research the muskie-pike plugs that use this tailfin arrangement.
  9. I was just hoping for a plug that would dive when jerked the up and down motion on steady retrieve was surprise. Sinks tail down about 20 degrees. The bulbous tailfin wasn't for looks but to get a bit of buoyancy back there to hold tail a bit higher. Not certain but I think a flat belly(despite photo the belly is perfectly flat) and a rounded back promotes dive as in a darter or a lot of minnow plugs via the plug being tilted slightly nose down tail up. This plug will stick to the surface at a high rate of retrieve though. I am going to try a small horizontal tail fin made out of metal on this and see what that does. I'm thinkin if I turn it down maybe something cool.
  10. Vertical Glider: inspired by Bigred's soft plastic bait and a wide profile flounder fly I had luck on in winter, I tried a flounder shape plug. From the top looks like a tear drop or sculpin rather than a flounder. From the side it has a flat bottom and a rounded top tapering back to a raised fin-like tail. I weighted it using according to Jigman's scheme for gliders. I was just hoping for something that would dive when jerked and then swim up on the retrieve. But this proto turned out to have an up/down gliding swim. Maybe dives a foot before coming back up. Unfortunately fish don't seem interested in it but an interesting result nonetheless.
  11. One other thing on the alumifoam is that in a cast piece anywhere the internal cell structure is exposed you get bubbles or little cavities in your paint. So where the seam on the mold is and the spru hole. And any where you sand the skin even a little bit. I just tried coating the seam flash area and spru with some wood filler--Elmer's Carpenter's--and it seems to have worked. Another spot where I barely touched the plug with some sand paper I failed to coat with the filler and it's showing bubbles. Next time I might try wetting the filler a little bit once its on the plug to try to get it into all the holes. Right now I made two plugs with my old batch of alumifoam and am going to coat with etex after about four days and see if these split.
  12. I'm trying this Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler. Anyone else tried this? The nice thing about it is takes a while to dry so you can take your time forming it and it sands really easily. I have no idea how it do after the epoxy gets rashed off the plug and its exposed to saltwater. Worst case scenario I can always re-seal with superglue.
  13. The clay would make the top and bottom surfaces assymetrical and introduce some kind of pressure difference that might change the swim. Of course would have to account for the fact that clay is somewhat heavy. I think the idea of increasing drag is really intersting. Nice innobaiting!
  14. @t_man7 is this glider type plug? I had another idea about r&d'ing and it's getting some clay and forming that onto the plug when testing it. The clay I got from the Michael's it's kind that don't dry out will stick to epoxy and survive being lobbed into the water. I've only used it once to test but it was interesting. Reason I mention is it would be interesting to see what would happen if you filled in the scalloped area on the bottom of the plug. Of course I bet you have already tested that on this shape?
  15. One thing they do, read about it in People or something, is lateral thinking. You try to get creative and out of a rut or pattern by using unusual ways of thinking. Like you would say I want to make a plug like a Porsche 911. Or let's say I could make this glider be a George glider or an Elaine glider...what would those look like. I think you're supposed to have goals in mind and then work towards them like a brainstorming exercise. Look it up online. I'm off to build a George glider I think LOL. Although now I'm thinking most of my gliders turn out Georges ha ha.