Matt T.

There’s Travelodge by Wyndam just East of Windsor, and then some more options around the 13/32 interchange north of Suffolk.

That’s kind of the idea behind the “Angler” class, except they have to be able to cast in the same rounds as “Athlete” casters and still have everything go smoothly… hence, hi-vis. mono only. I’m going to document cast-reel-in cycle times (and interest) in March and see if we actually have time to do separate rounds for both levels of casters in future events. Then we can talk about a true no holds barred “open” class. The non-negotiable is that there must always be an internationally-recognized casting opportunity for the really serious people.

We’re trying to determine if people want to cast braid in a tournament because it goes a little farther, or is it just a pain to find high-viz. mono and re-spool the reel. Any input?

Fishbucket: yeah, it’s a tricky situation where perception is reality: “braid cuts mono”. Someone shooting for international recognition in the Athlete division probably doesn’t want braid anywhere near their thin mono. We may allow braid in the future… if we find the time to prove or disprove the adage conclusively for ourselves. Right now Ryan and I are just trying to get our bearings (no pun intended). Please have patience and support the club if you can.

LOCATION /////// Heritage Park & Joel C. Bradshaw Fairgrounds 21311 Courthouse Highway Windsor, VA 23487 SCHEDULE /////// March 11 8:00 – 9:00: FREE surf casting seminar. 9:00 – 9:30: Tournament check-in. 9:30 – 16:00: Casting competition. March 12 9:00 – 15:00: Casting competition. 15:00 – 15:30: Scoring + recognition. DESCRIPTION /////// Open to CSCA members and non-members, the event will open on Saturday morning with a free, optional surf casting seminar taught by US record holder and avid surf fisherman Ryan Lambert, who will cover simple tips and tricks you’ll be able to implement that day to get extra yards on the beach or on the field. NEW: the casting competition will be divided into the traditional “Athlete” level (standard CSCA/international rules) and a new separately-recognized and awarded “Angler” level of competition for surf fishermen seeking to casually compete and learn without the pressure of stringent international rules, or going up against exotic tackle and techniques. See complete Athlete and Angler division rules at https://carolinasurfcasters.webs.com/tournament-info FEES+DUES /////// 2023 CSCA Membership: $30 Athlete Division entry fee (non-member): $25/day Athlete Division entry fee (member): $10/day Angler Division entry fee (non-member): $10/day Angler Division entry fee (member): $5/day

I’m putting together some content on how long casting actually effects catch rates, and I’m looking for opinions of surf anglers who can actually cast baits far for an informed comparison to fishing the first trough (short range). Do you personally catch more or bigger fish, on average, at long range? Please include your first name, no. of years surf fishing/long casting experience, and your most frequented fishing spot (e.g.: Outer Banks, FL East Coast, Montauk, etc.). Thanks in advance!

I was referring more to the “continental” style of rod in general. My understanding is that the whole point of them is easy distance for non-casting-experts. I don’t ever see them used in tournaments. But there are models that can handle heavy weights.

Akios 435: A 3-piece “continental rod”. These are gaining popularity with British fisherman who want big distances without the struggle of casting a fast action, super-stiff surf rod. The action is moderate to moderate-fast. Italcanna Vector A4: This is more a traditional 2-piece “British beachcaster”, and a super powerful variation at that. The action is fast, and the butt section is like a steel bar. The A4s are typically relegated to casting tournaments and used by some of the strongest, biggest, and most skilled casters. For me, fishing with this would be unpleasant and I doubt I could even handle it in a tournament. For that, I stepped down a notch to the B4… which I still don’t foresee myself ever fishing with. To summarize, a stiffer, faster-actioned rod will get optimal distance on a tournament field, but a softer, slower-actioned rod will be much more user friendly in most fishing scenarios.

If the reel has an “Ultra-Cast” spool (spool is separate from axle, which is stationary) then using the spool tensioner as a brake compresses the inner race against the outer race of the ball bearings. This causes damage to the ball bearings when casting. On other reels that have the spool and axle as one piece, this technique should be okay… but it’s an inconsistent technique compared to magnets or centrifugal braking.

With a levelwind, shock leader not an option, 30 lb. Test… sounds like you won’t be casting more than 3oz. In which case I’ve found these reels to be plenty fast out of the box. Instead of bearings, I’d focus on finding a braking option that’s more precise and consistent than the spool tensioner. Monomags are really for adjusting mid-flight when casting heavy set rigs on long rods, and tournament casting (5+ second flight times). Go with an incrementally-adjusted array instead.

In tournaments, slower-action parabolic rods are better for casters who rely on more body rotation than a big hit at the end. They’re also more manageable for heavier weights when fishing. If you’re more of a big hitter (arm power) at the end of the cast, a faster-action rod will probably get you better distances. A relatively stiffer tip on a rod (more parabolic) is also preferred for spinning reels, though I cannot figure why. This all comes from expert John Holden over in the UK.

So I tried fishing from rip-wrap into a channel passing under a bridge last night. There were guys there Crappie fishing. Something was breaking the surface out there in the dark here and there. Using a white bucktail and a big chartreuse grub, all I caught was a lousy 7 lb. largemouth on the channel ledge who, once I landed her, proceeded to snap my leader and help herself off the rocks back into the water with my bucktail.

My vote is for athletic tape, like bandage tape. For some reason, nothing can cut through it. Plus, you get more flexibility in your joints than with a heavy duty finger stall.

Just got into freshwater fishing this year in light of COVID-19 boredom and have actually done fairly well: some "slab" crappies, 2-4lb.+ largemouth. My next mission here on Jordan Lake in North Carolina is striped bass. Here's what I know... - The water right now is in the mid-50s, so I assume the lake has turned over. - Shad is the main forage here. - I don't have a boat. Can anyone enlighten me about... - What kind of structure I should look for that I might be able to reach from the shore? - What time of day I should be fishing? - What types of artificial lures I should try? - Does chunking bait work? - How should I fish live bait, and what size? (I can get minnows) - If you're familiar with this lake, specific locations would be great. - do surf fishing strategies for stripers come into play for these fresh water counterparts? - I've heard freshwater Striper patterns are very similar to Smallmouth Bass. Is studying "smallies" a good starting place? Thank you very much!