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Everything posted by atv223

  1. I assume you know you can buy a new one for $35. I just had to replace mine for a 2013 Outback. The center shaft brass insert for the set screw pushed out. They changed the design to not have a brass insert. I have my old one but one broken in a different way isn't going to help you.
  2. Crimps and heat shrink if done properly are sufficient. I used to solder everything but had more issues with them than properly done crimps. Watch videos on how to crimp properly. It seems simple but I've seen a lot of people do it incorrectly. Use heat shrink with adhesive on the inside, it should create a waterproof see if done correctly. I learned something the hard way recently. There is such a thing as marine-grade wire. The individual strands of copper are tinned to prevent corrosion. I had used regular wire on an install and after a year or two the wire corroded and broke. I tried to strip it back to find good wire but the corrosion kept going along the length of the wire. I ordered marine grade wire on eBay and problem solved. Use dielectric grease on all connections. Lastly, make sure your disconnect the battery BEFORE disconnecting and other connectors in the system. If the battery is still connected and any other connections come into contact with water, the current from the battery will drive galvanic corrosion FAST. With the old Lorance units that had a single connector for power and sonar, people destroyed the connectors in a single trip by not disconnecting the battery.
  3. Let us know how you make out. My suspicion is that the 53" bars will be too short and the Hullvator will hit the car. Keep in mind that if the Hullavator just clears the side of the vehicle when in the down position, it will flex in a bit when loading. If you don't have a large enough gap, it could hit your vehicle. I suppose you could put a piece of foam or something in-between when loading, but be aware of the potential issue.
  4. I looked into this. The square bars can be mounted to the feet anywhere along their length so regardless of the vehicle you own you can use any width bar no issues. The aerodynamic bars the OP bought can only be mounted to the feet within a limited range along the bars. The wider the bar the farther apart the minimum mounting width is. So if you buy oversized bars for your vehicle it’s likely they won’t fit. My guess is that the aluminum aerodynamic bars aren’t as strong in supporting cantilevered loads as the steel square bars so Thule designed them to prevent people from bending them. OP return the bars you bought and get the steel square ones. If you “hack” the ones you bought they may fail.
  5. Thanks! I keep trying! Yesterday was a beautiful day on the water with 2 shorts. I’ll keep at it!
  6. Nylon is VERY hygroscopic and water acts as a plasticizer. Basically, it will stretch when wet. It will also then shrink as it dries out. This is important if say you strap your kayak down the night before a trip. If in the morning with all the dew you retighten the straps and then go on a long all-day drive, as the straps dry they'll shrink and put more tension on the kayak.
  7. Needed something to do, so with the help of my daughter, we created this. I like it! I'm anxious to hear the comments when I wear it.
  8. This is a great thread! I've been mostly a 1 trick pony for fluke fishing for years, using a Skinner-style high low rig. My goto is a 1.5 oz white Spro bucktail on the bottom tipped with a 5" white gulp grub and a bait keeper hook above on a dropper loop with a 4" white gulp grub. It works well, but when conditions aren't just right I feel like I've needed more options, so this year I've started to experiment. Some fishing buddies the last few years have been killing with a flutter spoon as a teaser. The first time out this year, I had so many tangles with it, I gave up. Last time out, I tried deadsticking a flutter spoon while on a drift and jigging the other rod. I picked up a 14" fluke on the flutter spoon, The interesting part, I was experimenting with circle hooks. It was a perfect circle hook, hookup, right in the corner of its mouth. The drift has to be easy and clean but I like the idea of having an extra rod in the water and now I'm confident with circle hooks. I'm also planning to try out simple swim baits casting and bouncing off the bottom, as buddha162 explained. I just need to find the right conditions and spot for it. I always try to drift with the current and use the pedals to adjust my speed or direction so the line stays verticle, basically counteracting the wind effect. So if the wind is going against the tide, and I'm not moving or moving too slow, I'll slowly pedal into the wind with the current to keep the line verticle. I'm hoping different techniques will help me catch fish when conditions aren't perfect. It's easy to catch them when you have a clean drift at the right speed along a channel, but I can't count on that every trip, so I'm working to adapt! This week I got out in S. Jersey and got my PB, a 23" fish. I caught it on my old stand-by Skinner rig.
  9. It’s probably a grey area, but since there is no size limit to n bluefish it’s likely not going to present a real issue.
  10. Happy to help.
  11. The Skinner technique gave me tendentious! LOL
  12. I'm not understanding? Are you cleating it down like in this photo? If not, it's going to pop up. I know people for years that have never cleated it down and it works fine, but then one day it doesn't. It's supposed to be cleated like in the photo. If it's cleated and popping up, you may need to adjust or replace something.
  13. Are you cleating the “down” cable?
  14. Good feedback. The image works without it that saying, I just thought it was fun and quirky.
  15. That would be cool, but FAR beyond my skills! LOL Good question! I have no idea! Yeah, it is. I'm not exactly sure what I meant when I put it together, kind of like we are out there on these little plastic boats and we have no idea what's lurking beneath us. It's the way it is.
  16. I wear crocs and sock liners. Sock liners are very thin and typically worn under regular hiking socks. I use them when skiing under my ski socks, in my waders and dry suit when I don't need extra warmth and I don't want my skin sticking inside the booties. I also use them in the heat under my crocks as sun protection. They are thin and don't absorb much water so not like wearing a regular sock. Check out FOX RIVER MILLS, INC. sock liners on Amazon.
  17. The installation will be easiest with Thule SquareBars. You can do it with their Aero bars but it's more complicated. The bars must over hang the roof line my a minimal amount, so make sure you don't get them too short.
  18. Yeti has become a total lifestyle brand. 0.005% of the people need a cooler with the performance of these rotomolded cooler that keeps ice for 5 days.
  19. Rtic makes the equivalent for less than 1/2 the money. You just won’t look as cool with it on your kayak.
  20. I don't put fish in my soft Rtic cooler. For fish, I just use a cheap soft cooler from you can get at almost any big box store. They are like $5.00 look like a tote bag. I don't really care what happens to it. When I'm done, I just hose it out (no soap) and let it dry. When it gets too beat up, I'll toss it and buy a new one. That's just to keep the fish on the kayak. I have a hard classic Marine Igloo I keep in the car with fresh is to keep the fish fresh on the drive home.
  21. I really like Rtic soft coolers. A bunch of different sizes. Waterproof and they float.
  22. It sounds like it’s working just fine. Mine is mounted just as you described in my 2013 Outback.
  23. This is a very interesting platform! Let's hear your thoughts as a saltwater fishing machine!!
  24. Agreed. My big take away from as that people are doing all the “feel good” things like banning plastic drinking straws while commercial operations go unchecked doing massive damage. People are happily eating their Filet-O-Fish and drinking a Coke with a reusable straw, thinking how much of an environmentalist they are.