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About essexalan

  • Rank
    Senior Member


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fishing Woodworking
  • What I do for a living:
    Computer Engineer
  1. I use a pair of Zziplex V Max F2s for fishing the East coast, nice easy casting 5 ounce blank and definitely not a poker. You need at least that weight to hold out in the tide and drag a decent size bait out there. Most of the stiffer blanks seem to be used where they are fishing rough ground and kelp so they can drag a fish out of the danger zone, no worry about the fish fighting because they don't. Times have changed Mike and the match fishermen seem to dominate the rod market. I will give it another go this year for a tope off the beach but I wont be holding my breath. Used to be that some beaches where I fished did need a long cast to reach the fish but the cod are like unicorns now so pointless.
  2. That rod is all carbon AFAIK so no Dural butt involved all the other surf casting rods I own have parallel carbon fibre butts and are, for me at least, much smoother to cast with. I doubt that the average caster and certainly not myself could use that rod to anywhere near it's limits regardless of what Century say. Probably make a good Bronzie rod for Namibia.
  3. Still have a couple of rods with HT Dural butts an ABU and a Conoflex semi-carbon, both still capable of putting a lead a long way but they do weigh a lot and the Dural will corrode if not protected. Seems a much faster release than rods with carbon butts which I think are more user friendly so burnt thumbs used to be common with me. John Holden is still around writes for a UK sea angling magazine and has a quite informative website. Waste of money buying a tournament blank for fishing far too stiff and if you can't bend it you can't cast with it.
  4. This was way before the days of the Internet, forgot about it until this thread was posted.
  5. Noticed this discrepancy between floating and sinking lines years ago when tuning shooting heads cut from DT lines. Floating heads always came out slightly longer and heavier than sinkers for the same feel. Never could work out why this was so just put it down to my casting ability or lack of. Even tried casting them with my eyes closed but the results were the same.
  6. Used T-14 on 9 and 10 weights stuffed braided nylon backing heads trimmed for maximum smoke. Roll them up, roll them out, one backcast and let them go. Did the same for deep reservoirs with a converted carp rod and leadcore, not pretty and very much "chuck 'n duck" in windy weather. Reckon a TH rod would handle the line with a lot more authority.
  7. I think that Mike just likes playing in the suds Experience with UK bass has meant that while there can be larger fish in the surf they are mostly schoolies. Just about all my larger fish have come to crab baits fished in very rocky and weedy terrain or live baits fished at night very close to the shore. Very similar fish in feeding habits and location and I have caught larger UK bass than my best striper but that is down to me fishing in the wrong places at the wrong times always a problem for visiting anglers. Big baits catch big bass...usually.
  8. The usual quoted figures are in sixteenths, so an 8 weight will handle 8/16ths or 1/2 oz.
  9. You can also tie these with foam strips instead of EP fibres, same silhouette just rides even higher in the water creating a slight wake. Never tried one so no idea if they work for tarpon but I bet blues and stripers would love them to bits. My guess is that they look like shrimp or crabs but who knows what a tarpon thinks.
  10. Did use Tuffleye with the most expensive torch in the World but now use two resins available in the UK Deer Creek and Bug Off. Bug Off is pretty cheap so gets used the most but Deer Creek never sets up tacky. Use a UV torch sometimes but usually a UV Laser pen of 405 nm wavelength. The Laser pen is far more intense and will brown the resin if you use it too close or for too long. I wrap a tube of gaffer tape lined with aluminium foil around both to prevent any side light from getting in my eyes. Any tacky residue will cure if you leave your flies out in the Sun for a while. Most of these resins are probably re-bottled Chinese resins used by manicurists, it's just finding the right one. None of them are really thick enough for making Surf Candies so I still use epoxy coated with Hard as Nails.
  11. Accuracy is all down to the gunner not the gun given a reasonable gun. Practice and then do some more, any oddity in the rod you are using your brain can and will compensate for rods which are at least consistent in throwing line off kilter. No short cuts just go out and do it, I was constantly landing flies on bonefish heads until I stopped aiming at the fish and started aiming at where they were going. Target fixation? Maybe but rod and reel would have made no difference. Supposed to be something we enjoy and not consigned to some mathematical formula, don't trust the manufacturers blurb just do it and enjoy the journey.
  12. Mike, Totally agree now I have stopped having a "Senior Moment". Got all sorts of rods with various solutions for multi piece rods but I do like the overfits for neatness, not sure how the CTS system works. Humbly Yours Alan
  13. Good write up on the CTS site on how they do it which sounds a lot better than just using various other materials to improve hoop strength. Never knew that.
  14. I think the cloth is cut to a predetermined shape and then rolled around the mandrel so you have a start and end point to the cloth which cause the spine effect, as in the wall thickness is slightly thicker in a certain line along the blank. You don't wrap the cloth on like you would insulating tape in a spiral, the spiral marks you do see on some blanks are probably caused by the temporary tape wrap that goes on over the cloth and resin before the blank goes in the oven. Of course the blank can be multi-layered with different types of cloth, extra reinforcement, if any, where the spigots go etc. I would guess that a multi-piece blank is built on one mandrel and then cut up not the case for a long tip/parallel butt blank where the spigot is made to fit the tip.
  15. Mike, My definition of spine - line through the blank which has most resistance to bending. OK I build on the line of least resistance to bending which is easily detected by rolling the blank , usually this is opposite the spine I have found just rolled an 8' Conoflex blank I am rebuilding to check but it does have several spines. I ignore any curves in the blank. If you are playing heavy fish then getting the spine right is most important as I found to my cost down Mexico way with a spinning rod built on a Conoflex Gambit, I got the soft side about 10 degrees out and after about 10 mins or so my arm was cramping from the rod trying to twist in my hands. I don't understand the 90 degree business. Had a touch of snow last night but all gone now, the dogs enjoyed playing in it this morn though. Alan