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Scott F

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  1. The line used also matters. I’ve changed my opinion on rods as I searched for the line that works best for my casting and fishing style. I like the least effort to make the cast. Sometimes that means heavy in line class or over line class. Grain weight is more important to me than stated line number. The taper is less important. this is for coastal redfish and largemouth bass.
  2. I’ve got an inflatable hobby, i11. It came in a roller duffel, but I have never tried to put it back inside the duffel. It would be a challenge. I fold it up in the back of my suv. Total package around 60 pounds, hull is 35 lbs. includes pedal drive and comfortable seat and crappy 4 pc paddle. works great on Texas coast and lakes. Would never think of taking it on a plane. Buy a used kayak at your destination, then donate it to a worthy cause when you leave.
  3. With this screw in butt or REC’s press in butt, I shorten the butt section by about 2” for the 1.5” butt. This makes all sections equal lengths. If you do not shorten the butt section, you will end up with a 9’-2” (or longer) rod. having 1 section of a 4 piece rod longer than the other sections is a PIA. Rod socks and rod tubes may not fit.
  4. @suave my technique for floating GC. - using homemade 10mm shank. - I don’t measure foam. Just go slightly bigger as you go towards hook eye. - I use 10 mm shanks; maybe 1x15mm; if you larger shank a 2nd piece of foam may be needed to float more metal - test swim your 1st to determine if more or less foam is required. My 1st needed more foam at eye of hook because it floated nose down. I didn’t like it. 1 foam 2 filler flash 3 Palmer feather i cut a 45 in bottom of foam to make it easier to tie on shank. pix on next post
  5. @TopStiperangler my 1st GC’s used the original chocklet stuff (2 ropes with stuff in-between). way too difficult to cast due to no water shedding. I had to use my 10 wt for 4-5” flies. I could have used my spinning rod. feather GCs shed water and collapse on the cast. In the water, they “breathe “ and give movement even at rest. 1st I used only feathers, now use filler flash plus feathers. Using filler flash acts as a support; feather fibers stick up more. Also when using filler flash, the quantity of feathers goes down by 50%. i still fish feather only when I think flash is bad. Feather only collapse more on the strip and don’t expand as much on the pause. castabilty goes down slightly when I finish the fly with a deer hair head. The deer hair causes a different action and slows the sink rate to almost suspending. I make my deer hair heads “small” to minimize casting effects. Not enough deer hair to float the shanks + hook. I also use GC chenille, mainly for sinking GCs for largemouth bass. The weight overrides the chenille on casting effects. I am primarily using a 7 and 8 wt rod. deer head feather GC
  6. @suave foam is placed on rear of shank. It’s the 1st thing on the shank. I tie about 1/8” of foam down. Filler flash on tied down foam. Feathers Palmered around remaining bare shank. Fly at rest floats. When stripping, a slight dive due to foam near hook eye. Dives maybe 2-3”. Not like a Dalberg. I will attempt pictures. My hook selection only requires foam at front and rear of hook. A longer or thicker hook might require a third foam piece mid hook. I prefer feather GC’s due to ease of casting. And the fish in TX like them.
  7. I tie my floating changers using 3 mm foam (craft store foam visors are 3 mm in various colors. Gradually increasing size of foam from tail to eye. typical is tail + 5x10mm + sc15 1/0 hook.(short shank) 1 piece of foam per shank + 2 pieces on hook, none. On tail. tail = 2 duck flank feathers, filler flash, hen hackle body shanks = foam, filler flash 1.5-2 wraps, 2 or 3 hen saddle feathers hook = foam, filler flash 5 wraps, hen saddle feathers, foam 1st attempt sat head down; not enuf foam 2nd version had mor foam on head and swam good. if I use a larger ( longer or thicker wire) than a sc-15, a 3rd foam strip in the middle of the hook might be needed. works well on TX redfish.
  8. I went thru my local glasses store. They are an authorized costa dealer. getting a new prescription reduced the price by the cost of the frames. so it was $550 instead of $750. This was about 2 years ago. scott
  9. Yes. You can just change the prescription. costa did it for me, I supplied the frames. you will probably have to stay with the original vendor.
  10. Cheapest vise I’ve seen is a piece of rebar welded to a pair of vice-grips. no fancy features, but will hold a hook for a small amount of money.
  11. Make your own synthetic jungle cock eyes. Use cheap black hackles (you probably thought they were worthless). using fabric paint, make a white and orange stripe on them. Once dry, you have a better alternative to plastic crap. Then, get a tying buddy and split the cost of an actual jungle cock cape/saddle. My half a cape will be good for ~75 flies. Scott
  12. Mike i use a dowel with tape because it’s inexpensive. I actually use a 3wheel block, not a v block. no whipping problem with 4 piece fly blanks. I used to always glue rings on blank and then form / sand them. Now I use 0.25” all-thread as a cork mandrel then ream to fit blank. I used to make 1 piece 7 ft popping rods and sanded handle on the blank. I used 1 or 2 3-wheeled blocks. I can’t remember exactly what I did, but no problems were encountered. I probably overcame whip issues by using a towel to hold it down. I didn’t use a “helper” person. Scott
  13. Use a drill for your lathe. 2 V blocks. go from the butt end with a wood dowel ckucked in the drill. drill a hole in rod fighting butt for dowel. Or pry off reel seat end cap. use .25 or 0.375” dowel. Wrap masking tape around last 1” of dowel Jam dowel in hole until good friction fit. Spin with drill and start with 150 sandpaper widths 1 - 1.5” when your close to new shape, add filler if needed and use finer sandpaper, if you drilled a hole in butt, fill with black silicone seal. or buy a new seat end cap and epoxy. it’s more difficult writing these instructions than actually doing it scott
  14. Try a belt for waders. many manufacturers, many widths and many materials.
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