Pinefisher

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About Pinefisher

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  1. Good on you for practicing self rescue. Its always a good idea to have some type of cord you can use as leverage incase you need it to right the kayak. Anyone who has sailed and fliped hobie cats knows how easy it is to right them with the proper leverage. Getting back into your kayak can be even a bigger challenge especially if you have tons of accessories attached to the sides. On my Viking its so low to the water that coming in over the side is very easy however on my PA14 I have to come in over the back.
  2. The Kayaksailors sail kit seem to be very well balanced and I like the idea of temporary installs to find the best permenant spot for the install. Would you go with the genny option?
  3. I didnt even know there was a Kayaksailors site but I just checked it out. Pretty cool stuff. The genoa options looks very interesting.
  4. He should stick with an outback. I have a PA 14 and the best thing I did was buy a trailer for it. Trying to rooftop that thing is a mejor pain, not to mention pulling it up the sand bank and wheeling it across a long stretch of sand.
  5. There are a few members that paddle Vikings, me being one of them. Ted at Native Water Sports in Jensen Beach had a demo Viking Profish Reload last November when I was there. If he still has it Im sure he would let you demo it.
  6. I'll second what Chech said but add locknuts.
  7. Good to see options coming to the US market. I own 2 pedal kayaks and still use my paddle driven Viking Profish. If I had to rely on only the pedal kayays I wouldnt be going out and fishing most days because they are to difficult and dangerous to surf launch here. Each kayak design has its own niche and some excel in conditions where others dont. This is what I tell my wife when she ask, why I need so many kayaks. Works for me.
  8. Dont know about a tandem butI installed one on a Tarpon 140. Its easy to install and makes the yak more stable in wind and current. The instruction are not that good but there is a ton of informatiuon out there on how to install them,. The only thing I didnt like was the $200 dollar price tag for the kit. The kit wont damage the kayak, in fact the tarpon is designed for the rudder kit so you are just installing an option that can come preinstalled with the kayak new.
  9. Nice! I see you added scubber plugs. I added a rudder kit to mine which helps in wind and current.
  10. I have an older pre 2008 Tarpon 140 that I consider to be a classic. Ive been caught a few times by waves surf launching it and have always been surprised how well it punched through waves. She is very fast and handles rough conditions very well. The built in seat was comfortable and since its built in, I never had to worry about forgetting to load up the sit for a kayak trip. (I have forgot to load up seats in the past) The one thing I didnt like about the Tarpon 140 is that there was always about an inch or so of water that came through the scupper holes. I now fish with a Viking Profish Reload and the Tarpon only gets used by my brother inlaw when we go out together. He can out paddle me in the Tarpon which is amazing because the Profish Relaod is a very fast kayak. This classic is going to stay in the family.
  11. Its mostly personal preference. The rivets come with a rubber seal. They are quicker and cheaper to install but I have had a few that didnt compress that well so I had to redo them. The rivets also have a lower profile which can be useful in some installations. I personally prefer well nuts because they give me more control over the fit on the install. SS wood screws are also a good option but you might need to add a bit of sealant.
  12. Way over priced for a used kayak. I paid less then half that price for my excellent condition, used Hobie AI with a trailer. I gave the trailer away and cartopped the AI 2,400 miles to our house on the coast of Michoacan Mexico. So please keep an open mind, do your reseach and dont get cuaght up in the bling of accessories because as Saltfisher says, they dont add much value.
  13. In my opinion the yak and cart are worth 75% of retail as long as its not damaged. The rest of the stuff is going to really drive the price up and might not add equal value to the yak for you. As an example, 2 FPV power lithium 12v 17.5AH batteries is going to be very expensive and is not needed to run the electrics he is selling on that yak. A 9" fishfinder is way more expensive then a 5" or 7" that most kayakers use. You might consider looking at other Hobies with less stuff included and then set it up yourself for your needs.
  14. I concur with Matt. If you anchor in a kayak then an anchor trolley make retrieving the anchor a much safer task because you can easly pull the anchor line positioned forward or aft while still keeping the kayak pointed into the wind or current. What I find more important on the anchor trolley is the connection to my anchor line. Its a good idea to have a connection that can be easly detached and abandon if needed. Obviously you also want a float on the abandon anchor line so that you can recover it at a later time. This comes in handy when fighting a big fish around structure but also as a saftey feature. I once got my anchor stuck fishing under the Bahia Honda bridge in the Keys. The current was so strong that my only option was to unclip the anchor line. I almost flip the kayak just trying to unclip the line. The current was strong enough to pull the anchor line buoy right under water and I had to wait until slack tide to retrieve it.
  15. That is correct and yes 8lbs is enough for my PA14. Just make sure you pull the anchor trolley to the very front or rear of the kayak so the wind and current doesnt catch the side of the kayak.