Sir Defyable

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About Sir Defyable

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  1. It’s definitely a machining issue. It almost looks like it was intentional which I find confusing…
  2. Sorry meant to add info on the shims. It’s a 5x8 SS and either 0.1 or 0.2mm thickness
  3. Something I do that works for me is a “double twitch” where you keep the same cadence but (with rod tip a little higher than usual) each real twitch/sweep has a shorter, sharper twitch before it that pulls the belly out of the line. If you can see the line well and the first twitch happens at the right angle relative to the way the line is being swept in the current, the plugs doesn’t make a very big motion from the “pre-twitch” but the second twitch/sweep makes the plug move as it should. Man that’s hard to explain. Instead of sweep - - - sweep - - - sweep it’s pop-sweep - - pop-sweep - - pop-sweep where the pop is a mini-roll cast with the line. Of course at a certain point if the current is really ripping in one area you just need to go pencil popper mode with the spook until you are back into calm water
  4. Apologies as the spot was hard to get a good picture of. Here’s without shim: And here’s with the shim: Slightly zoomed in and with an arrow to the shim: And the shim would contact the rear of the central roller shaft: So I’ll also clarify that I originally thought it would take more than one shim, as I’ve seen many cases where having more rotating surfaces can help with these types of issues. It’s like having two swivels in-line with each other. If one is looser and doing all the spinning but starts to bind, the other will start to spin instead and take the load off the other. Two 0.1mm shims could still be the best solution from that perspective, but I now believe the main improvement comes from having no (or less) contact with the “nipple” in the middle. I estimate that you can not add 0.4mm worth of shims before the compression on the outer seal is no longer adequate, but there is wiggle room laterally to add shims thanks to the seals. The bearings are pressure fit and do not have any wiggle due to the tolerances.
  5. Okay so when I pulled the roller apart (vsx 200) there wasn’t really any foreign material present either But I determined the noise was coming from where the central “shaft” meets the rear inner wall of the outer roller (if that makes sense) where you can see what looks like a little nipple on that back wall: So I tried using a pair of precision SS 0.1mm shims and a single 0.2mm shim and they both worked fine to eliminate the noise, and I used a bit of royal purple with some grease to thicken it up as the lube for the innards of the roller You can buy the shims for pretty cheap but make sure they are precision shims and either SS 304 or 316 would probably work but 316 is better. If you don’t mind spending a few extra bucks (assuming you can even find one) a C22 or C276 alloy would be even better yet. Hope this helps!
  6. It’s not the bearings. Hang on let me find pics
  7. Roughly the same price as J Fluoro, and way more than Berkley Vanish. Those are my go tos for fluoro Ande mono all day if we are being honest
  8. I laughed at the self checkout thing. I try to order online and need to hide it from my wife and daughters- angler issues I guess. Never thought I’d be giving advice on nail polish but it’s 2022 right? If you can find Sally Hanson “Xtreme Wear” in red it’s held up well on many plugs. I use the clear where hook rash would usually show up on a plug and it keeps the plugs looking new for an extra season or two
  9. If it’s a bloody effect you are going for and the gill plate on the bait is raised a bit, I use a dab of red acrylic nail polish. Prop the bait so the acrylic runs the way you want it to, then keep loading the nail polish into one spot and let it run. Once it stops running, dab the excess bead (at the end of the run) off lightly with a paper towel. I use that trick on my “Bloody Watermelon” spook pattern and it gives a very nice blood effect Apologies that I don’t have a picture of a freshwater plug I’ve used this on but I’ve done it with crankbaits for years. I’m mostly doing firetiger plugs for my freshwater amigos these days
  10. Sounds like you use the clips already when throwing plugs, but I’ve also gotten burned by using too small of a clip when big fish are around. I am pretty strict about using the 125# for any type of striper fishing and it took me a while to be convinced the size of the clip doesn’t deter bites, but it doesn’t. If I’m using a very small plug/lure I might drop to a 75# and I use the 50# only for Albie/Bonito fishing since I’m using 10 or 15 lb braid and small lures anyway.
  11. It’s meant for soldering electronics, and referred to as “helping hands” if you wanted to find one. They are like $12-15 online but your local discount hardware store may have them for less than $8. Very useful for painting plugs and jig heads too
  12. I don’t know if I “found it” but about 10 years ago I hooked a decent bluefish by tangling a ~5 foot mono leader that had a Magnum Rapala still hooked into the fish, blue Mack pattern. It wasn’t in the greatest shape to begin with but the hooks were recently replaced since they looked fairly new, but I’ve kept it in the bag (fishing from my boat) ever since. After enough toothy critters took a whack at it I filled the pits with some nail polish and sanded it down, then mixed up a few bunker (ish) paints to refinish it. It will continue to be a sweet trolling plug when I’m on the hunt for gators, at least until one of them tries to eat my swivel instead of the plug…
  13. Little late here but the Captain is a great guy. He handed me a pile of custom Diamond jigs that have served me well for years out at the Race. Knows his stuff and very friendly
  14. I’ll take what remains (2,3,6,7,8,9) which would be $121 right?
  15. They are hard to get a jig head into for sure, and offer their own brand of jig heads that make it a little better but not much. No argument here, but the baits are absolutely worth fishing regardless. If you care to learn, I can show how I go about it, specific to these elastic baits Start with a weighted or unweighted swim bait hook, attach a split ring and swivel, then line it up to the bait: Work out the penetration angle and drive the hook through: With a bit of effort (and finessing the plastic over the weighted part) get it to the point where the swivel is still exposed: Line up the hook and insert into the bait (as usual for swim baits) You are good to fish, but I would add a touch of glue into the hook pocket under the bait. Bonus tip is to use stainless wire to add more or less weight to hooks depending on the application: Works with both profiles of these baits: They catch very well and are very durable: And a year later, here’s a couple drying from my trip earlier today: With all but the white one in the middle being a year old, two or three times glued to keep the hook from sliding. For any baits that aren’t this elastic material, you will rip the bait trying to pull the weight through, so I would pull a small loop of braid from the nose of the bait through the hook spot where the hook needs to go. And i pull the swivel and split ring inside so the hook sits correctly: And same glue application recommended here also, to ensure you get as many fish per bait without re rigging Same rig, same result: Try it out! It’s more work for sure, but worth it once you get consistent at it