just a couple casts

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  1. Guess I wrote that last post before I saw the one just above......
  2. This is a lake in the middle of Texas. How does this effect the migratory stripers on the east coast?
  3. Right, I hardly ever use the 10 #, more often use 15. With wire and a good connection the 15 should be fine, but yes 20 would be better. 65# is way over the top for my application. Some great rigging suggestions here. I was looking for a quick way to switch on the fly when I run into blues, that's why I liked a pre-rigged fly with a loop. I was going to try wire tied to the fly then attached to mono with a doudle surgeons (or another) knot. I'd put a loop in the mono then that gets attached to the leader quickly if blues are around.
  4. The only thing I don't like about my 3-tand 50 is when the drag is backed off all the way there is no resistance and the reel free spools. Seems picky but it bugs me. When I'm stripping out line to get started it spins and makes a mess if i don't tighten it first. Also is a bit of an issue when storing and transporting. I've got other reels that still have a bit of resistance when the drag is backed all the way off. That's a better design in my opinion.
  5. I'm wondering what type of connection you all use when attaching tie-able wire to your leader for blues or even pike. I've used different rigging with varied results. I've pre-rigged several flies attaching the fly permanently to the wire then putting a loop in the wire and used loop to loop connections. It's generally worked but then I ran into monster blues and the mono loops cut. I think I attached to 10 or 15 lb mono. Looking for a really reliable system that is quick to attach (like loop to loop) when needed. Thanks!
  6. Don't forget to bring a couple of surface flies - poppers, gurglers, etc. It's a whole lot of fun to watch the stripers (and blues) follow and hit on the surface. Plus, when there is no action it can keep you focused to work a surface fly.
  7. I think you might be. You'll do great with any of those reels. Just rinse it after you use it and lube it if the manufacturer calls for it. I'd put each of those in my hand and "fondle" it for a few minutes. The winner will let you know!
  8. I really like my 3-Tand TF 50 trout reel - excellent quality all around. But I agree with Mike above - I don't think "sealed" drags should be looked at as the standard to be held up to. My favorite, best and longest lasting reels by far are high quality reels with cork drags that still work perfectly after using in the salt for 15+ years. So don't limit yourself to that. You might also consider Galvan in that price range. I've got a Torque for 8wt that's a great reel and I think around $400 new.
  9. I can't give an opinion on the rod quality now that they are owned by Shimano, but I can give an opinion on their customer service.... I bought a GLoomis IMX Pro fly rod last winter and fished it in FL for a week. I brought 3 rods and this one got less than 1/3 the use. I went to use it one afternoon and noticed a slight scratch about 2" long on it. I take really good care of my gear and I knew I didn't do anything to get that scratch. It was just cosmetic but it bugged me. As the week went on I noticed other small scratches and blemishes on the finish. I think that some people wouldn't mind, but it wasn't a cheap rod and I'm picky with brand new gear. I have 10 year old rods that don't show scratches like that. When I got home I called Shimano and they said email pics which I did. They emailed back and said it didn't look like a warranty issue but if I wanted I could send it back to be looked at. I wrote a letter and sent the rod back. I got no answer and started getting annoyed after a couple of weeks. But then a brand new rod showed up at my door! I use this one all the time and have had no problems with scratches or other defects in the finish.
  10. Ah, Why didn't I think of that. Just throw in another complete reel. That I have!
  11. I also do this at times on the boat. But last year my buddy was really out fishing me with a faster sinking (deeper) line than my intermediate. I had the float and the intermediate rigged - full sink was in a box at home because I have no 2nd extra spare spool. Those things are really pricey on the expensive reels so I only opted for 1 extra at the time. Now I'm having trouble finding a spare.
  12. Years ago when I started in the salt, I used used two spools - a full sink and an intermediate. Then a buddy turned me on to using floating lines at times so I started with those too. The problem is that my reels all have only two spools and some of those are older, discontinued models and I'm having trouble finding spare spools. So my question is, how many spools/types of line do you folks carry when fishing the salt in New England? On the boat it's no problem, but two extra spools (3 total) can get a bit bulky in the pack while wading.
  13. I think your choice of fly gear is right on. All the flies others mentioned worked well in my experience. You will be surprised what albies will take once you start getting flies in front of them consistently. I had my best albie day from shore on a grey and white clouser. Who recommends grey and white clousers for albies? Which leads me to suggest that if you want to catch them on the fly, use the fly rod. It's hard to imagine a scenario where the fly rod in the on deck circle is going to be effective when the albies show if you are using spin as your primary method. Unfortunately they generally disappear fast and waiting for the "right" time to grab the fly rod will really limit your odds of hooking up on the fly.
  14. I agree with considering some of the older high end reels - and used can be a great way to go. I love my old Bauers and they perform like new still after 20 years! No "sealed" drag, the old school cork is totally reliable and very easy to maintain and smooth as smooth. Did buy a new Galvan recently and it reminds me a little of the feel of the old Bauers and the price is reasonable. mkus - what is flybea?