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About tailspin

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  • Birthday 05/10/1988


  • About Me:
    Just another guy who enjoys fishing, boating and enjoying the ocean. I have made it a passion to do the prior as well as I possibly can and enjoy the process of discovery and learning. I own and fish a Boston Whaler Montauk 190 off Cape Ann Mass and have been boating for 20 years. The boat's name is Tailspin....
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fishing & Photography
  • What I do for a living:
    Software sales

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  • Location
    Cape Ann Mass

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  1. Saw the below from Tomo's Instagram! Does anyone have any info about the new 2020 Stella in these small sizes? Shimano has just announced the addition of the Stella SW in the 4000, 5000, 6000, 18000, 20000, and 30000 size. this long awaited release gives anglers the opportunity to pursue saltwater game in a variety of sizes with the premium technology Shimano offers. Prices now range from $849.99 - $1,199.99.

For individual specification, availability, and to pre-order, please see the link below:
  2. WOW!!! That's awesome! What was the final length and weight? What kind of rod and reel?! Love it when guys haul big fish in little boats!
  3. Thank you for the photos! I would anchor off the front steel ring, seems pretty sturdy...but what foxfai said would work too. Be safe, bring a radio and check the weather. Also, remember that you need 3x the depth in rope for a danforthto to hold!
  4. You are correct! A deep cycle battery can start an outboard when it's fresh, but when it's depleted after a day of use, I would be concerned it wouldn't have the juice to start both outboards. Do you do this often Seadogg, I would be interested to know if it works consistently! I think we would all agree that a 3 battery setup would be ideal here, 2 starting and one deep cycle...but that's a lot of battery for a 21' center console. The Northstar batter suggested above can run a 25 amp device for 160 minutes 2 of them gets you 25 amps for 310 minutes. A chart plotter/fishfinder pulls 1-2 amp's, live-well is 4-5, radio 2-3, bilge 5 when it runs.....so with everything running were looking at 15 amp pull at the most. Wilgabeast can sit for 5 hours with everything running and still have the juice to start both engines. Below is some additional reading on deep cycle vs cranking. Note that when looking at starting batteries, they are measured in MCA (marine cranking amps) or CCA (cold cranking amps). A little bit of googling should produce the manufactures rec for the minimum MCA or CCA that your outboards require. Deep Cycle batteries are measured in amp hours which has no correlation to cranking amps. The higher the amp hours, the longer the battery will last. Deep Cycle vs Cranking from: https://www.discoverboating.com/resources/battery-basics If you have an electric trolling motor, thruster, windlass, or other battery-powered accessories that draw larger amounts of current, you’ll want a separate deep cycle “house” battery for that purpose. A deep cycle battery is only meant to be used where high rates of discharging and re-charging occur often. A deep cycle battery is constructed differently than a cranking battery, with thicker, heavier plates. The longer, higher amperage requirements of trolling motors and windlasses, for example, would heat and distort the thinner plates of a normal cranking battery. The cranking battery has more yet thinner plates to give a fast voltage spike to crank an engine but is not intended to maintain high power output for long periods. Yes, a deep cycle battery can be used to start your motor in a pinch, but a two- or three-battery system is highly recommended to separate the engine battery from the accessory (house) batteries. Deep Cycle vs Cranking from: https://www.crownbattery.com/news/cranking-battery-vs-deep-cycle-marine-battery It can be tempting for any boater to want to minimize accessories and additions to their vessel, but the truth is that it is very difficult to combine the performance of a cranking battery and a deep cycle battery into one. The main reason for this is that when a cranking battery is subjected to continuous use, such as during trolling, it is subject to overheating and depletion of available capacity. By that same regard, when a deep cycle battery is called upon to provide the bursts of energy necessary to start an engine, it won't always perform. Most marine applications require two batteries for best results.
  5. You need two starting batteries, they are meant for starting an engine. Deep cycles will not have the power to start your engines. Second vote for the Northstar AGM's. Most powerful group 24 starting battery you can buy, but they are not cheep. I just put one in my Whaler with a single 115 and use it to power the plotter/fish finder, live well, radio and bilge. It has 160 reserve minutes which are the number of minutes a fully charged battery can sustain a 25 amps load before it is fully discharged. I could not find a group 24 starting battery with more reserve minutes. With twins, I would definitely recommend two and a battery switch if of course necessary. Technically, the batteries need to match and should be purchased together. Hope that helps!
  6. Well, foxfai. To start it would be nice to know what kind of inflatable you have. Is it a Zodiac or something else? Is the front ring steel, or plastic? Can you take a photo and post it? How deep are you trying to anchor and is there current where you want to anchor? How much do the tides shift? Is the bottom sand, or rock? What is the total weight of the boat fully loaded when fishing? The above needs to be considered prior to a recommendation being made. I am sure your problem can be solved.
  7. Knight, I was on that train for a while...but a mile on the water is like 100 yards on land. No one goes out just "a mile"! For the moment, I would get the most powerful handheld you can buy. Unfortunately, the FCC caps this at 6 watts but the Standard Horizon HX870 with Internal GPS is 6 watts and that built-in GPS is a nice to have if you get in trouble. Remember that radio range is dictated by the height of the antenna, and power helps cut through all the noise to be herd. While both are important, hight is prioritized over power. A good formula to use to determine radio range is (1.1 x Antenna Height of the Transmitter) + (1.1 x Antenna Height of the Reciever) Once you buy your handheld, do yourself a favor. Next time you go out "a mile" do a radio check with one of Sea Tow's automated radio check services. You can find the proper channel here: https://www.seatow.com/tools-and-education/automated-radio-check If you get a good radio check back, great. If not, let me know and I can help guide you through what you will need to install a wired 25-watt radio with 4ft antenna as I just did this myself two weeks ago. I get a signifigantly greater range with this setup than I did with my handheld.
  8. Go with opaque white. When do you ever use the windshield on a 17ft center console? Opaque white would look sick.
  9. I had this same question a year ago and wound up with a 2007 190 Montauk. I looked at the 170 and they were much too small, the 190 is almost twice the boat and the weight of the internal fuel tank really helps out. The gel coat is such quality that after I buffed it up it, people at the yacht club thought it was brand new. Whalers resale value is spectacular and it is nice to know that I won't lose my shirt if I chose to sell the thing. I don't see many Parkers in the water up near Gloucester and Ipswich Bay, and I am out every weekend. Lots of Whalers, Gradys, Regs, Everglades, and Steigers on the bank but not many Parkers. As for the ride. There is NO BOAT in this price and size range that will ride well in "chop". NOT A SINGLE ONE. However, in order to really break this down, we need to all be on the same page about what kind of "chop" we are talking about. If its the short period wind swell from a 20-knot breeze, ie. 1-2 foot waves spaced out by 3-4 ft, nothing in this size class is going to ride without pounding. Simply put, I do not lose days on the water due to the ride characteristics of my Whaler. That being said, it does have the "new" Montauk hull design that was discussed above. Just last weekend I went out to Stellwagon and caught a bunch of haddock. Sea conditions were 3ft every 9 seconds with 7-10knts of wind. As for buying used, I get the concern however, the value of a new boat drops 40% when you drive it off the lot. Why not have your cake and eat it too with a used one. Boat Trader has tons of boats for sale in this size range and class, I would look at all the options and hunt for the best deal. Grady, Whaler, Parker, SeaCraft (potter) Mako (pre 97), are all good options. Look forward to seeing you on the water.
  10. Congrats on the new boat! I picked up a 2007 Montauk last year and it changed my fishing game completely. Here is my experience for gear: 1. Don't buy any gear, something on your boat is going to break and you will need the cash to fix it. 2. After you say screw it to 1, I would recommend the Shimano Torium 16HG reels. No one fishes spinning gear from a boat (I'm in Gloucester) They retail for about 220 and are one badass little reel. I spool mine with 30lb mono for striped bass. I also have a Torium 20HG spooled with 50lb braid for groundfishing and sharks, but its a bit bulky and I am thinking about selling it. With 24# of drag and a 6.3:1 retrieve rate, it's the most versatile 220 bucks you can spend. 3. For a striped bass rod, I like the 7ft Shimano teramar north east casting rods and fish both the MH and H with the 16HG and for groundfish such as haddock, flounder, rockfish as well as sharks I use a 6'6" tallus in MH and XH with the 20HG. Here are the other considerations I made prior to coming up with the above setup. Avet SX 5.3 - I own one of these and fish it for stiper as well, but it's not as versatile as the torium. Seigler SG - I really wanted to love this thing, but I looked at one and it didn't feel smooth at all. It's also pricy, and that business keeps changing management which made me concerned about getting parts in the future. Penn - These are all made in China now, my experience with them has not been good. The old school ones were great. Accurate BV 400 - I wanted this reel. I still want this real. And when I have 470 bucks to burn I will buy this thing, but its a lever drag version of the torium, same specs, just a lot sexier. Ugly Stick rods - I tried one out and it flexed all the way down to the handle, felt like a wet noodle. G Loomis - Great rods but at twice the price of the Shimanos I had to pass Cheers and enjoy the new ride!
  11. Hey Wasy, there are a few things to check out here. 1. Check out https://www.seatow.com/service-locator and https://www.boatus.com/servicelocator/ and see whos closer to where you will be boating. 2. Check with your insurance carrier as some have boat towing insurance built in for a fraction of the towboat membership fee. I have progressive's "sign and glide" which will pay 100% the cost of a tow from any tow operator with 0 deductible, i believe the service cost an additional $33. Cheers