Southerner

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  1. Denatured alcohol and sand
  2. Hello Keith When you say " standard size" , I think you mean standard width...ie not a narrow etc. ..in that case, yes, it's standard. It's a bit more complicated than that. My screen name is "southerner". ...by that I mean you get to Lauderdale go south about 4500 miles and turn left...for another 7000 miles. When you get to the edge of the earth, visible from the Whitsunday Islands, you'll find that pure fishing no longer supports squidders jigmasters, Senators etc...reels that I stupidly sold when support stopped. My best option is to import a 500l Chinese version new from New Zealand for its aluminium spool. They no longer even sell jigmasters in Australia. Tiburon doesn't deal with anyone outside of the States. I appreciate your offer to remove the bearings but sending them to you is a last option. If I can't find an old jigmaster locally to try, Illl buy a new China made one from NZ .(who knows, someone may have even shortened the axle on mine and I have nothing to compare.). I'm assuming the Chinese made 500l spool will fit a USA made 500...is that correct? Regards Noel
  3. Thanks for the offer, Keith. I've bought a bearing in cap from eeb to attempt it's removal to do just that with the idea of using modified Abu shims. I believe it's easier said than done and requires a special puller to do it properly. I haven't got one, so I'll practice on a spare
  4. Some pics that might help me sort out whether the spool is as good as it gets.
  5. Thanks Sudsy. I was actually thinking along those lines that it requires an accurate spool to be something other than inaccurate. They certainly seem to be an "enthusiasts" reel....like a 57 Bel Air. Once you get it working, you dare not drive it far. I'll post some pictures within the next few days. It might throw some light on it.
  6. My couple of drachmas in the hope of insight. I'm lucky enough to beach fish almost daily. Due to the setting and tidal patterns, some is baitcasting on the higher tides but most involves getting chunks of squid into the gutters. 100 yards is adequate but the more the merrier. I've tried a wide range of reel and line combinations to have arrived at a couple of solutions. Firstly, for me, braid has a great place in deep drop fishing and medium depth fishing where there is current...and that's about it. I have found no place for it in beachcasting. it's frustrating, wasteful, therefore very expensive and time consuming regardless of what reel it's used on. It has for me, only minimal use in some short range bait casting setups....So... I thought the wilder the reel the better it would be for distance. But, nyet. Like in everything, control is the key.. One solution ran the path of 17lb mono with 40lb shock leader.... 525s took up too much my limited brain space and fishing time. Avet sx...same thing. Magged Avet sx...much much better but still prone to frustrations. An SL20SH seemed to be on thd right track but still unforgiving. I went back to the tried and tested. Penn surf master but found difficulty getting distance and the harder I tried the more chance of frustration. Then a Penn Squidder 140 lubed properly.... (now there's a reel !) . It was here that I found great satisfaction for quite some time, but it is not a "no brainer" reel to use. You can see that I had avoided factory CT type magged reels in the main in attempt for distance...probably a mistake....but anyway.... Onto an Abu blue yonder and actually some, but not groundbreaking improvement over the squidder ( ok I'm ready for the ensuing flack). Every 20 casts or so, as with the squidder, usually when you lose concentration, a minor backlash would kink or dig in the line to some degree meaning that further back lashes would occur with increasing frequency, but still certainly easier to use than the squidder. I luckily never had a significant problem with snap offs. Even though I was adamant that levelwinds were not going to suit my distsnce needs, I resurrected an Abu 7000 and an Abu 6600 blackmax.. And here I found beach casting nirvana. All the reels I tried to get to this point are superb reels but for me the relaxation gained from not one hiccup in hundreds of consecutive casts withour the stress of worryng about each cast are well worth the loss of 10 yards...maybe...and the demands of a few extra spare parts fairly regularly, The quality of my sessions and enjoyment improved exponentially. Yes, it is possible to fish a fast CT all day long without a hangup...but I'll bet that'll also be at the expense of distance, thumbskin and most importantly, freedom from exacting concentration. Fishhappy is certainly on the mark with his advice. A quality round levelwind should be a goal unless you are just casting baits for field practice...and for a " belt and braces" approach maybe even a magged one, although I believe it's not necessary with a level wind. There was also another solution...but another time.....I have to go read "war and peace" for practice.
  7. To my way of thinking, should a magnetic fluid be utilised in any design, it requires a ferromagnetic structure onto which it can attach. The better the efficiency, the higher the iron content of that structure. Haven't we been fighting corrosion since the dawn of reels by utilising increasingly less iron in their design?...graphite, full ceramic bearings, rubber bearing shields...interesting use of technology, but that's about all.
  8. Thanks Don It just might be the wrong aftermarket spool for the frame. The width between the shoulders is fine but it seems the axle length is about 1/8" too short and the spool diameter seems as if it could do with an extra 1/16" ...I'm wondering if it's a 3/0 senator frame with a 500 spool. Unfortunately I sold all my senators and jig masters a few years ago and have nothing to compare. It's easy to find widths and frame sizes online, but I can't find any measurements of axle lengths and spool diameters.
  9. Thanks for replying. I'll post some pics early next week.
  10. Hi Could someone help our with a measurement of the overall arbor length of a jigmaster 500 and a 113 ? Many thanks
  11. I recently came across a cosmetically neglected 6600clw for $10 on the bay. Internals cleaned up to be a very very nice reel. The handles were so perished that they had literally fallen off. I assume they are the same rubbery paddles as yours. The rubber is fitted, possibly moulded, onto a hard and resilient plastic spindle bearing which spins on the handle shaft. It does not seem possible to replace this without drilling out the shafts and fitting a replacement grip, spindle bearing and shaft, so there is probably nothing to be gained by attempting to remove the rubber paddles. Lots of flushing with your favourite reel friendly solvent ..eg force flushing with silicone in a pressure can followed by lubrication as Jimmy z mentioned is probably the only way to go. My solution was to replace the whole handle from a cheap auction site Abu 6000 clone reel. ( the reel was pure junk and failed after 3 uses but it had 2 good points...a recyclable box and, surprisingly, a very nice handle that fitted perfectly, was a direct copy in size and form and was the only part of the reel made of half decent material.)
  12. Hello all. I'm hoping to get some pointers with an accuplated accuframed jig master that I purchased recently. I've had no exposure to these reels whatsoever until this, and they are exceedingly rare in my location. What I see is that it has original jig master internals and the rest is accuplated, apparently even the spool....but that's where the issue possibly lays. It's a red anodised spool with a clicker gear on the LHS. My thoughts were that the accuplated spool has no need for a clicker gear. The issue is that both the left and right bearings are screwed in as far as they go but there is still a good 1 to 2 mm of sideways slop meaning that the reel rattles when moved and certainly when cast....what's more, the reel to frame tolerance is terrible.it can easily eat 45lb mono. ...and I didn't think that happened with accuplated jig masters. it's still use able and a very nice reel, but I would have expected more...a lot more ...well. accuracy. Is it the wrong spool? Maybe a sqidder spool? How can I tell?..Do the bearings need shimming? Hope someone can help.
  13. Good trick that makes a lot of sense.
  14. I can see your regrets. ...and it's the old story that if you have already gone through the upgrade route, then it makes sense to keep the reel and add it to your estate. But you'd have to be a Penn enthusiast, rather than a distance casting enthusiast to start on that road. In my case, given the cost of the Newell or Accurate upgrade....when you can find them....it makes more sense to put the squidder towards a high end Abu, Daiwa or Akios and enjoy it without ifs maybes and might's on its performance. ...pity, but that's the new world odour. For now my squidder is doing its job, so it stays. Next time it plays up and it's not an easy fix, it gets fed to the auctions. Thanks for your thoughts I'll have a look at that frame, probably dismantle it and see if there is anything I can improve with a vernier gauge and 6 pound mallet.
  15. So...is there anything you can do with the original frame to square it and keep it square, at least for a reasonable time...other than replace it with a Newell?