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Everything posted by JfromRI

  1. I think the word "addictive" is what captures most of it for me, but pretending to be rational for a moment, here's another place to add to Redgreen's list of good spots for TH casting. I am at Gulf Islands National Seashore near Pensacola, on the Florida panhandle. Only here for a few days for a work trip and didn't want to pay the extra airline fees for extra gear, so I played it safe and brought my 9 wt SH as carry-on instead of putting my my TH in checked baggage. Big mistake! The beaches are wide and open. There are bars close enough to reach with a long cast,... pelicans are dive bombing further out,.... and here I am on the beach frothing at the mouth. Supposedly the bars are loaded with big redfish, but the wind is turning to the SE tomorrow and will kick up the surf. Local fly boys say the fish will still be there, but they also say I won't be able to get to them with the surf and wind in my face. Sight fishing will shut down either way, but if I had either of my TH rods, I'd be telling those fly boys how it is.
  2. Doc- I built a copy of Redgreen’s 13 TH overhead build last year. I lost it last fall, and now I’m building another because I loved it so much. I live in Wakefield RI and found that setup very useful and fun in most places and conditions I like to fish. When I finish my new build, you are welcome to check it out if you’d like, since it sounds like you are close by. I’m no pro, but can show you what I’ve learned from Mike, Redgreen, and others on this forum. J.
  3. The first seals I saw along the beaches over the past week or so were on a day when there were shad showing. Could be coincidence, but I’d bet seals eat shad.
  4. Thanks all, and thanks for the quick fix suggestion flyrad10. Gannets are already over head here in Rhode Island and air temp was 34 F on the beach today, but I've seen bass seasons continue here into December. Either way, looks like I'll be doing without the TH option until I can build another one this winter. J.
  5. Friends, Last spring on Cape Cod, some of you saw my version of Redgreen’s PacBay 13’ build. Consensus seemed to be that I had done a decent job with the build, thanks in large part to guidance and advice from Mike Oliver and Redgreen. So, last night, after catching stripers on a Rhode Island beach under a 12-14 knot breeze in the forward quarter of my casting side, I was cruising home on US1, and began scheming for some time off of work to hit what I’ve been preparing for all along: wetsuit fishing a November run of decent stripers and gator blues. At that moment, i looked up through my windshield and noticed my rod WAS NOT THERE ON THE ROOF RACK! Yes, folks, I put it on the rack but neglected to strap it down. After much searching, it’s gone, totally gone, reel, custom line, and all. I am not the sort who owns five versions of every piece of fishing gear, so this is a real bummer. I am back to the SH 9 wt that caused 8 months of elbow problems for me last year. Damn ! Damn ! Moving on and getting to the point, I’ll be bugging those who will listen once again for tips and advice on another painstaking build, if I can find the time and stomach the thought of doing it again. J.
  6. Will try to follow this advice now that I know I am a space cat. In any case, sorry to clog the airwaves with this screw up. I had just gotten to where I could sling 735 line wgt confidently in 12-14 knot side winds, so it’s a bummer to be suddenly out of commission.
  7. After much tossing and turning, I now recall putting it in the cradle but didn’t tie it down. I travelled directly to route 1 North.
  8. Thanks Castafly. I had been at Blue Shutters, and then home to Wakefield. I scoured the lot and roads last night and this morning and am also giving my contact info to the bait shops in Charlestown and SK so it can be turned in anonymously if needed.
  9. Lost fly rod, SOCO beach: After catching a few stripers in the surf this evening (Monday), I left my 13' two-hand fly rod at a SOCO beach parking lot or forgot to strap it down on my roof rack. I built this rod last winter and it is as precious to me as it is irreplaceable commercially, so please let me know if you hear of such a rod being found. It is black with no markings, has a 16" upper handle and a 7" lower handle with alternating composite and natural cork rings, and is completely unmistakeable. Thank you, J.
  10. The reason prisons are filled with minorities is because cops and jurors think the way you do. Please do not embarrass the good people on this forum with your hate speech.
  11. Seems like a drop in the tip during the drift would be a problem when combined with line feed on the back cast, in theory. One thing for sure that I discovered last night: wading up to my navel in the dark brings back my bad arm flailing habits and makes drift difficult.
  12. I am reluctant t chime in because I’ve only been on the TH for about a year, and I’ve been overseas for three weeks, but here is my experience thus far. I started with the same CND 11’ TH rod that Greg mentioned. I love it, but had trouble with it in rough conditions (i.e., surf and wind). Could be my crappy technique and I don’t know the loop jargon, so I won’t try to analyze it here. However, with advice from Red and Mike, I built a version of Red’s 13’ “pac bay mod” last winter. With a few minutes of casting instruction from Mike, Red, and Dan, I am now doing WAY better in rough conditions. I now use only the 9’ and the 13’ and I am able to fly fish more area more often than before. That was the whole point for me. JfromRI
  13. Red- I think I got my collapsible life vest for under 100 bucks, but I wouldn't recommend the auto inflating ones for wading on splashy beaches.
  14. Good to hear that, Mike.
  15. Wait, what? Fishing in circumstances where occasional participation in rescues is expected? Those days are over for me. If that weren't the case, I'd still be rock hopping in the dark with home made Danny plugs.
  16. Thanks HT for the encouragement about the Cape and for reminding me about 02807Fish. I plan to PM him when I finish building this rod. As for inflatable vests, I wear an auto-inflating one when fishing on rocks, mainly because what kills people is when they get knocked unconscious on the way down. For years, the guys I see tell me how smart I am for doing this, but they never do it themselves. We lose people every year here, mostly off the rocks. I also wear a gasketted surf top and a tight surf belt to minimize swamping if I go under. Since I wear stocking foots, I had to invest in good waders with good gravel guards so the boots don't turn into anchors (boot-foot waders don't work well where I fish). Of course, nothing beats fishing without all this gear when the water's warm enough. Regarding sharks, I know guys who've been fishing the Cape their whole lives who won't put a big toe in the water anymore. Here in Rhode Island, I see harbor seals on every spring and fall outing, but the great whites don't seem to follow them here as much as on the Cape, although there is an occasional sighting near Point Judith. Maybe it's just a matter of time. J.
  17. FishHawk, thanks for bringing that up. I agree that fly design is a big part of this when we start talking about distance and wind. I'm a fan of the rhody flat wings and simple deceivers but plan to work more with synthetics and bigger flies this year. I saw a bunker-like fly somewhere recently that uses weight to swim the hook with barb up like a clouser. I don't want to hi-jack this TH thread with tying discussions, but if anyone can point me to creative bunker ideas or other forum threads I'd be grateful. J.
  18. I do all of those things, hopping, swimming, etc, except for wet suits. I sometimes fish in early fall without the waders and still find that the basket limits my depth. In some cases, its best use has been to detach and use as a tub to float my gear while i swim to a sand bar. I've been fishing the surf for a long time so I know it well and I know how to wade into it, but until last year, surf rods and SH fly rods were my only gear. Since getting the 11' TH last year, I've noticed only one other TH rod being used here (though I tend to avoid the busy spots), so I'm looking forward to meeting up with others on this thread to see how they do it. All in fun, of course. It is recreational fishing, after all. I'm getting close to finishing this 13' Pac Bay build and can't wait to try it out. J.
  19. RedGreen, yes, I always use a basket unless I'm on the foredeck of my boat, but of course it puts a limit on how far into the surf one can wade and increases the distance needed on the cast.
  20. I do the same thing with TH when wind is from right side, i.e., cast with rod across body and right hand still on upper grip. Switching hands, so I'm told, would be a good way to feel what a cast would be like without the muscle memory noted by others above. TGS- I experienced a ton of windy days here on the Rhode Island beaches last fall. To me, what "windy" means is too windy to throw a big fly. Some of those beaches are steep with a deep trough and fish (schoolies) in close, so SH can be way better if wind is light and bait is small. The old timer perspective is also persistent around here, which is that one should fish parallel to the waves, even in windy conditions, always with floating line, and not worry about distance. However, I found I could not always reach the fish I was after, and which I could see straight out and just beyond my reach. Hence the TH. The part that I'm fretting for this year is line handling, which is tricky on low profile beaches, with 80 feet of line off the spool, and side-sweeping current that pulls the line leeward. This is where the stiff tip section that Mike prefers would be useful. In any case, the lawn can't recreate these conditions, so I'll be practicing this spring on the beach long before the fish get here. J.
  21. Rod wgt rating stamps from commercial builders seem to be contributing to this phenomenon. My Redington Predator 9' is rated as a 9 wgt but the CCS puts it clearly in 10 territory. So, based on the label, I can claim to be overlining, but based on CCS, I'm not. The spey and TH ratings seem even more useless. My CND Oceana 11' is marked as an 8/9 wgt, but CCS says it's 11 or low 12 and it actually takes at least 450 grains to load it?
  22. That's the unloaded weight. It's actually 11.7 oz empty according to the Abel specs for the 4.5N. Maybe the burl handle will be just right for balance but as Mike points out I might get tired. Looking forward to some "field research" on this question in the coming season. Purely for the greater good, of course.
  23. Is there a rule of thumb for reel weight? I like the way my 12 oz reel balances on my 11' CWD 8/9 wt rod. The balance point is about 2" closer to the reel than what seems typical, but this has worked well. Hoping the 13' build will put the balance point in the sweet spot with this reel.
  24. Based on my calcs, the handle on one of these rods, if made in natural cork, should add about 1 oz to the butt. This means that if burl is 3 times heavier than natural cork (is this correct?), it could add an extra 2 oz. I don't have the experience to know if 2 extra oz near the fulcrum point is enough to make a difference, but Mike and Redgreen do, and I think they're experience is that it does indeed. Seems like this would be more of an effect on endurance than rod performance, given its location near the pivot point. Not to turn this into a rod building thread, but what we really need is mass/vol for each material. Volume can be measured by putting a piece of cork in a graduated vessel of water and measuring the displacement. But the cork piece would have to be big enough to also be weighable on an accessible balance/scale in order to get density. I will try to do this with the burl that I ordered. Here's how I got to the 1 oz mentioned above. Redgreen's build has 16.5" foregrip and 7" lower handle. Rounding to 24, if we assume a cylindrical 1" handle and assume a 5/8" non-tapered butt, total cork volume can be guestimated by subtracting the "pi R squared times length" of the butt from the same for the full size of the handle, I get a total cork volume of 11.5 cubic inches. My web search estimate of natural cork density (160 to 220 kg per cubic meter) translates to D = 0.0925 to 0.1273 oz per cubic inch. Thus, the cork handle should weigh 1 to 1.5 oz. Yes, I know, I am a total geek. Actually, full disclosure, I am a scientist, so I never do anything without some initial predictions and calculations. And then the art begins, hopefully. J
  25. Yes, I have a lathe with chucks on both ends, so will likely use a steel rod as a mandrel. I am following Redgreen's build using the Pac Bay FASY1409 (cut to 13'). Expecting it to arrive in a few days.