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About AaronWilde

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  1. Hey. I have a fairly new Daiwa Luna 253L bait casting reel with a disengaging levelwind. I've used it about 20-30 times or so. Usually when I retrieve It feels fine and is very smooth, however.. sometimes (about half of the time?) when I retrieve I feel a very very slight, "bump bump bump bump bump bump", the entire time I retrieve. It's a very slight and consistent bumpbumpbumpbumpbump. It's hardly noticeable but me and my friends can feel it, and it's not always there. When I cast, sometimes it's completely gone and smooth for a few casts or for 10-20 minutes of casting, then after a cast it'll come back, maybe get worse for 1-20 minutes, then it'll go away, and come back. I thought it was probably the bearing under the handles shaft had a piece of grit in it, but sadly that bearing doesn't have a removable housing. I shook it up in acetone and gave it new oil and did the rest of the bearings and gears, and it feels better but this damn bumpbumpbumpbump keeps coming and going!!! I'm pretty sure it's not the gears as they look mint. It's got to be the bearing under the handle right? Because spool bearings don't spin while retrieving, only while free spool/casting. One friend thinks it could be the worm gear, but I doubt It would feel smooth and then come back to bumpbumpbump if it was the worm gear? Anyway.. sorry for this sort of paragraph of rant, it's really bothering me because I don't enjoy the disengaging levelwind and want to sell the reel but feel kinda bad selling it like this, even if the problem doesn't affect anything. Thanks!
  2. You are correct, it has corrosion resistant ball bearings, some reason I thought it was mag sealed ones. I hear though once grit gets in mag sealed it's tough to get out. I looked into the cost of the bearings for the Coastal and it's like $100 in bearings to replace them all if they get **** kicked by the salt. The Akios and Abus I have tons of bearing replacements and they are cheap. Maybe I am worrying too much? Lol
  3. Yeah, I have considered LPs. I would get the Daiwa Coastal 200 TWS. They are in stock for 2 day shipping on Amazon for $200 USD. I like the idea of LP for comfort and the Coastal for the twing design.. the only thing keeping me wanting Abu/Akios is how easy it is to open up and clean out. I fish the salt water almost daily in the summer and have to tear the reel down every few days sometimes. I guess I could just learn the Coastal but I hear those mag sealed bearings are a pain to clean lol
  4. Casting on the beach (saltwater) in the Pacific west coast of Canada for Coho Salmon with a 10-30 gram spinner lure
  5. Indeed! The Akios Shuttle 551 LSi looks amazing but only sold in few stores across the planet from me and out of stock. The Akios S-Line CSM 656 RGX OBX Special Edition also looks like it would do the trick if only it were available in a left handed model. It's a 6000 size but it's lighter than the 551 at only 330g! Any heavier of a reel and it's not so fun after 6 hours of power casting and retrieving 20 gram spinners lol
  6. Backlashing isnt my issue with CT.. im casting and retrieving 10 to 30 gram spinners over and over and the levelwind is convenient for line lay
  7. I've looked at the Akios and the one they have with a levelwind is the Akios S-Line 651 CSM left hand. It's too big for casting 20 grams for 8 hours. Too much line capacity and too much weight at 16.2 grams. Unless I am not seeing a smaller levelwind version there? Nice reels for sure A
  8. Hey! I want to buy a new Abu to play with and I have the chance to buy an used 9/10 condition Abu 5001C reel from 1986 for $200 Canadian. I have also been looking into buying a new Abu 5501 Pro Rocket Black Edition for $259.99 Canadian. I've been doing a lot of research and looking into the internal schematics and I cannot find much information on these reels. I've attached both schematics below and circled the differences in red. For the Pro Rocket Black Editions all I can find for info is that some people say they cast further than the C3/C4's, and that they feel more sturdy, but others say there is little difference more than a marketing gimmick over the C3/C4's. On the schematics (below) the only difference is the side plate has an second cast control knob (dual cast control knobs), and inside the second knob is a speed bullet or speed bushing. I can't find any more information nor can I understand how or why that would make much difference for casting as the C3/C4's are factory centered spools, and almost identical inside besides the second cast control knob and speed bullet. Then there is 5001C from 1986. I can't find much info on it and can't even figure out what the gear ratio is? Seems 4.7:1 is likely but maybe someone can chime in? It's a bit different design inside as you can see in the schematics (below) it has it's spool and spool shaft as one piece with the bearings on either end instead of in between the shaft and the spool like on modern Abu's. I am wondering how this would cast compared to the newer ones, feel, and hold up? I have an Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 5501 C3 that I made a few upgrades to (Dual worm drive bearings, ceramic spool bearings, cog wheel bearing, and ceramic pawl). I enjoy how easy it is to take apart and clean. It would be sweet to buy one of these reels I have listed and have a second Abu to work with. I am hoping that one of these reels would be a step up in the casting distance department/quality feel department. I use it to cast 10grams to 30 grams of lead with a 5 foot leader to a lure (spinner) that has no weight on the ocean from shore in the Pacific north west for Salmon. Any info would be appreciated
  9. I wouldn't hesitate to try an abu 5000 or 6000 series. The key is getting the Ambassadeur round reels and not the new black max branded crap. I wouldn't get a c4 (6.3:1 I believe) model with the faster retrieve as the gears wear out quicker if you fish heavily. The c3 has 5.3:1 gears and the cog lasts significantly longer. Still takes a few years but yeah. If you get the c3 I recommend you upgrade a few parts for distance casting. The main thing I notice to make a difference is dual bearing worm gear, but you will want a few extra as salt water will get in there easily and you can't really clean the one bearing that's permanently attached to the worm shaft. You've gotta just replace the shaft now and again, or figure out a way to get that bearing off to clean. Gives a few extra yards over the bushing version of the worm shaft. Ceramics help on the reels spool too from what I can tell but I've read pretty deeply into the subject and it seems scientifically stainless bearings are just as good as ceramics distance casting wise. Gotta love the sound of dry ceramics though lol.
  10. Hey, So I ended up going with another Abu last summer. I got the 5600 c3. I was very close to getting the Daiwa coastal, and will likely try that one next. It's hard to beat the Abu ambassadeurs though. They are SO easy to take apart to clean and maintain, which is the main thing, they can cast a Canadian kilometer eh, lol, and they are pretty good all around reels with replacement parts coming cheap. The 5600 c3 has been holding up very well and I honestly wasn't cleaning it as much as I should have been during salt use because I fish almost everyday during the summer beach Coho season and it can be a lot of work to clean it every couple days. I have used the Abu 5600 c3 at least 100-150 days by now, possibly up to 200 times even, not sure lol, I fish a lot. It has held up well so far. I haven't been cleaning it out very often as once the summer saltwater fishing is done it turns into my float fishing reel in the rivers in the fall, winter, and spring for Salmon/Steelhead and it holds up much better in the freshwater for sure.
  11. Hey so recently I got a Daiwa Luna 253l reel. I am not a big fan of the disengaging levelwind. I heard I can order the parts from the Luna 300L that are responsible for keeping the levelwind engaged, and then put those parts in my 253l, converting it essentially? I've experience with Abu round reel parts and insides, but not the Luna. Does anyone know what parts I would need or if this is indeed possible? For casting I don't find much difference in distance with the disengaged levelwind, but what really bothers me is the inconsistent drag when fighting a fish. The levelwind is out of sync with the line once you hook a fish which makes the drag feel inconsistent as the line comes off the spool at weird angles. This is a big deal when fighting Coho Salmon in the rivers.. they fight hard, thrashing, rolling, jumping, and wiggling. A tad too much or too little drag at the wrong moment and they shake the barbless hook in a jiffy. Thx
  12. I recommend finding a fishing book about colour (Yes, us Canadians put a U in colour, lol). There are entire books written about this very subject. I have one called "The Master Angler - Using Color technology to catch more fish" by Phil Rabideau. Colour undoubtedly makes a difference, but not always, and there are often more important aspects than colour. As you have noticed and others have mentioned, colours change underwater. For salmon fishing in the ocean people tend to use blues and greens as the Salmons eyes are adapted to see those colours as the bait fish the Salmon eat are silver/green, silver/blue usually, but as the Salmon come back to spawn in the rivers their eyes adjust to be able to detect red/orange/pink better as that is the colour of Salmon eggs which they aggressively attack out of competition, or need to see to spawn successfully. However, people still catch the Salmon on other colours than what they are keyed in on, as colour isn't the most important aspect. Size, movement, depth, scent, and being in front of the Salmons face is far more important than what colour you use. Some days though there will be tons of guys putting lures right through the fishes face and they just won't bite, and sometimes changing the colour, along with changing other aspects, is enough to trigger a bite. One never knows for sure what or why things work, but we all have our theories, and it's fascinating to ponder. That's part of what is so endlessly captivating about fishing. No matter what we think we will never know for sure what the fish is thinking. You can have everything dialed in perfectly and get skunked, and do the same thing another day and put on a clinic. Tug is the drug
  13. Those reels look good. So similar to Abu round reels! Wow, now that is a custom, haha. What is the CT conversion bar for? I wonder if I can still get a mono-mag to replace my brake blocks, and if it would really change much? I already cast a mile with my 5501 c3 and ceramics, and I don't have birdsnest problems. I use 2 brakes out of the 6, and just keep my thumb on the spool always. Been throwing 20 gram sinkers mostly. I'm also curious what your reel would look like inside with it packed full of grease on the handle side? Inside the handle side I put grease all over anywhere water may come in from. I don't put a ton though, a thin layer.
  14. Yes I grease the teeth all the way around, sometimes I will spin it and do a 2nd layer even lol. The local fisherman say the abu c4 6.3:1 gears wear out as they are faster ratio and that the c3 5.3:1 gears are longer lasting. I fish a lot more than most people though so that's part of it. I fish minimum 150 days a year and often 8 hours or longer. I got my new abu 5501 c3 today, put my ceramic bearings and levelwind bearings in and broke it in today on the beach.. got a 15lb Chinook and a 5lb Coho salmon.
  15. I have an Rapala Magnum Baja Travel Rod that cost me under $200. It's 4 piece. I got the 9'6" one but the MG20SP116MH4 is 11'6" or there's a 13'6" version too. 3/4-4oz rated fast action. I really like my rod. The handle is awesome. It does end up needing readjusting the blank so the guides line up after a lot of repeated hard casting, but I don't mind.