BST Users
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About AaronWilde

  • Rank
  1. I recommend finding a fishing book about colour (Yes, us Canadians put a U in colour, lol). There are entire books written about this very subject. I have one called "The Master Angler - Using Color technology to catch more fish" by Phil Rabideau. Colour undoubtedly makes a difference, but not always, and there are often more important aspects than colour. As you have noticed and others have mentioned, colours change underwater. For salmon fishing in the ocean people tend to use blues and greens as the Salmons eyes are adapted to see those colours as the bait fish the Salmon eat are silver/green, silver/blue usually, but as the Salmon come back to spawn in the rivers their eyes adjust to be able to detect red/orange/pink better as that is the colour of Salmon eggs which they aggressively attack out of competition, or need to see to spawn successfully. However, people still catch the Salmon on other colours than what they are keyed in on, as colour isn't the most important aspect. Size, movement, depth, scent, and being in front of the Salmons face is far more important than what colour you use. Some days though there will be tons of guys putting lures right through the fishes face and they just won't bite, and sometimes changing the colour, along with changing other aspects, is enough to trigger a bite. One never knows for sure what or why things work, but we all have our theories, and it's fascinating to ponder. That's part of what is so endlessly captivating about fishing. No matter what we think we will never know for sure what the fish is thinking. You can have everything dialed in perfectly and get skunked, and do the same thing another day and put on a clinic. Tug is the drug
  2. Those reels look good. So similar to Abu round reels! Wow, now that is a custom, haha. What is the CT conversion bar for? I wonder if I can still get a mono-mag to replace my brake blocks, and if it would really change much? I already cast a mile with my 5501 c3 and ceramics, and I don't have birdsnest problems. I use 2 brakes out of the 6, and just keep my thumb on the spool always. Been throwing 20 gram sinkers mostly. I'm also curious what your reel would look like inside with it packed full of grease on the handle side? Inside the handle side I put grease all over anywhere water may come in from. I don't put a ton though, a thin layer.
  3. Yes I grease the teeth all the way around, sometimes I will spin it and do a 2nd layer even lol. The local fisherman say the abu c4 6.3:1 gears wear out as they are faster ratio and that the c3 5.3:1 gears are longer lasting. I fish a lot more than most people though so that's part of it. I fish minimum 150 days a year and often 8 hours or longer. I got my new abu 5501 c3 today, put my ceramic bearings and levelwind bearings in and broke it in today on the beach.. got a 15lb Chinook and a 5lb Coho salmon.
  4. I have an Rapala Magnum Baja Travel Rod that cost me under $200. It's 4 piece. I got the 9'6" one but the MG20SP116MH4 is 11'6" or there's a 13'6" version too. 3/4-4oz rated fast action. I really like my rod. The handle is awesome. It does end up needing readjusting the blank so the guides line up after a lot of repeated hard casting, but I don't mind.
  5. Yeah I ordered another Abu. The 5501 c3 this time. I already have ceramic bearing upgrades in my old reel I can swap into it. My gears are what went on my old one. I will service it more often this time. I notice that the gears side get a bit wet and the one bearing on the gear side, so I will follow yours and others advice to clean them and maintain them far more often, daily if I have to.
  6. Don't forget about the Daiwa Coastal as well. I made a similar topic the other day and decided to just buy a new abu 5501 c3. It's a round reel not low pro but it's super easy to open up and clean, casts a mile, and easily replaceable parts. Bait casters can't be sealed from the salt and when you fish the ocean the water will wick up the line and get the reel wet no matter what you do. You do need to clean the inside regularly and re-oil/grease to keep it working well. Low pros are a bit trickier and timely to open and clean. Good luck!
  7. I never had a problem with Abu 5601 c3 and distance with 7-20 grams. 20lb mono and I can cast a good 60 feet with 7 grams. Under 13 grams or so is a bit trickier but works fine. Though I hear Abu round reels are great for casting distance compared to others. Which is why I want a baitcaster to use in the surf with mono - it casts further with 15-20lb mono than a spinning reel would with that thick of line and 7-20 grams of lead. Try casting 7 grams with a spinning reel and 15-20lb mono lol. Though I haven't tried casting such in many years, from my memory it wasn't very nice. I might just buy another Abu Ambassadeur at this point lol
  8. You can't just slip the IAR bearing out on Abu ambassadeurs. You need some sort of mechanical press as it is pressed into the side plate. I try lightly cleaning it by lubing it then running cloth through and turning the cloth in a circle like the clutch sleeve would do, and it gets the grit out however, it bends the small plastic bearing springs that engage the IAR as they are incredibly delicate. Clearly it is designed to be a failure point so you have to buy a new one or it'd be easier to access or non plastic.. Thanks for the advice. Considering beach season only has another month, or month and a half at best here, and shipping is quite slow at the moment (especially to Canada), I will look into these reels for next summer. It sounds like you're saying what the guys and old timers on the beach say about Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 5500 reels. Old design, very very simple inside, and easy to break down for maintenance. My problem is I am not as perfect at keeping it dry. The "top rods" (guys who catch most of the fish) with baitcasters have perfect cast/line control. Stopping their cast before it hits the water so that the line pulls tight and the belly of the line doesn't slap the water and pick up water as they reel. Combined with keeping their rod tip lifted quite high as they reel and there isn't a as much water wicking up the line and down into the reel as if you just cast without paying attention and have your rod tip down as you reel (your line all be wet and bringing tons of water back to your reel). One guy who takes summer off to catch Coho daily there just decimates the beach with an Abu 5501 C3. He services it once a week and fishes it 8 hours a day 7 days a week casting lures, but he is so perfect with line control that hardly any water comes up the line and it stays fairly dry, it's pretty amazing. Takes skill. I'm not sure what to do with all this advice. Sounds like these fancy low pros would just be a hassle as they are complicated to take apart in comparison to older style round reels and they will get water in them just as badly lol
  9. I find that you get what you pay for, but it depends on how hard you'll use em. If you just drive to the beach and can stand there while fishing then cheap ones will last you possibly 50 trips or more without leaking (It's hit or miss/luck, and how gentle you can treat them). I had a cheap pair of white river wading boots and waders that cost about 220$ USD and after 10 trips the knees were leaking and the wading shoe seams had come apart. I hike upwards of 10 miles per trip through bushes and up rivers in mine though. I use Patagonia men's swiftcurrent expedition waders now. They cost 600$ USD but they are fairly bomb proof. I've hooked myself many times while casting and never made a hole, and the one hole I did get I was roll casting over and over thinking my fly was in the rocks, and it was in the waders lol. Aqua seal and good as new. Everyone around the pacific northwest uses Patagucci swiftcurrents or Simms g3 or g4. A guy who fishes and hikes nearly everyday told me Orvis silver sonic waders are also bomb proof. Ymmv
  10. Another vote for the Daiwa BG spinning. Such a good quality reel! I've had mine 2 years now and fished it at least 100 times, probably 25% of those times in the salt. I haven't serviced it (I really should), as it is still perfectly smooth and when I looked under the spool it was relatively clean still. Crazy how well made they are for the $. I think I'll open it up today for a cleaning actually :).
  11. Learn the FG knot and use it. I just learned it and was shocked how well it goes through my guides. I was using uni to uni before and it ticked each guide with every cast, but the FG is nearly undetectable. Fished it for 7 hours of casting lures and caught 2 fish with it. Edit: ps.. I only do 15 wraps so its shorter. Its a modified FG with a uni knot to finish
  12. Hey guys, Sorry to beat a dead horse some more but I was hoping to get some help with deciding what baitcaster to buy next. I fish the surf for Coho and Chinook, and sometimes off a rock jetty but just as often I am waded to my knees and being pounded by waves. I've been using Daiwa BG which is amazing for its salt resistant qualities in the meantime, and Abu Ambassadeur 5601 C3 which take a beating and stop working so fast, even with maintenance. It's always the anti-reverse bearings that stop working and can't really be maintained since the bearing housing is plastic with little plastic V springs which bend when you try to clean them, or the main gears end up going. I maintain them every few days sometimes but it doesn't seem to matter as water wicks up my line and directly into the reel or waves hit me and get it wet, and the thing just lets water right in. I fish the surf hard in the summer, sometimes 8 hours a day,5 days a week casting lures from 7 grams to about 28 grams (ounce) max. I would like a casting reel as I can get further distance with 15lb mono and I land far more Coho on mono as they flip around like crazy at the shore and pop off with braid. Spinning works with 20lb braid for distance but I find I lose more fish on it even with a mono shock leader. I've read tons over the past week on these and other forums and have come to the conclusion that there is no salt sealed baitcaster as the spool needs to be free to spin, so water will always enter there. I am leaning towards a Daiwa lexa 300 HD Left hand, or a Daiwa Coastal tws 200 left hand/ sv tw 150 left hand, or an Abu revo 4 inshore. I am sort of leaning towards the lexa 300 HD but I just can't choose. If they all will take water and need maintenance I am even tempted to just replace the 5601 c3 parts but it's very annoying having to buy a whole new side plate for 40$ to replace the anti-reverse (I don't have access to a press to press the bearing out, I am in an apartment), and new gears for 50$. Almost may as well buy a whole new reel at that point. Any advice is appreciated, open to other reels too. I am in Canada. Looking to spend 300$ Canadian, could got a little over. Looking for sheer casting distance with 7 grams to 20 grams on average (sinker with 6 foot leader to a weightless size 5 spinner), salt will be getting into the reel so maybe ease of maintenance, and DURABILITY of the parts being the most important I reckon. Thanks!!!
  13. It sounds like this is exactly my problem as the anti reverse gets so rusty so fast! Sadly it is part of the entire side plate unless maybe I had a mechanical press to force it out/replace? I will look into the revo 40 beast. It's $300+ but looks real nice, are these newer low profile reels easy to service ? The Abus are extremely easy to service which is so far the only reason I've really used them. I wonder if buying a cheaper one would still be okay. I find the cheap reals are so hit or miss. I fish hundreds of days a year for half the day minimum so I am tough on gear. Some buddies use the ~$100 low profile bait casters and they seem to last but they barely ever fish, lol.
  14. Hey, I know this has been discussed as I searched older threads but my questions are still not answered. I have an Abu ambassadeur 6601 c4 with ceramic bearings and downgraded gear ratio. I frequently rip this reel down to the very last part to clean all the water out and add new oil/grease. I'm starting to get upset with this reel though because I fish so often that it needs maintenance every time there is a good rain - which is very often here in Vancouver, Canada in the fall. The reel will start making a horrid squeeking noise while I retrieve which I presume is the anti reverse rollers/sleeve as when I open the reel after fishing it in a good rain there's a bunch of fresh rust on the sleeve/rollers. Every time it rains or the reel gets splashed its back to squeeking, and the anti reverse started failing on me yesterday with Coho salmon on, it would let go and the reel would spin backwards while playing the fish, annoying! So there's not really such thing as a sealed bait caster? I'm willing to pay the money for a nice one, I'm done with abu's. I've owned a few of them now and they all suffer from a few stupid problems, the handle lock screw loves to fall out without locktight, the spool tension cap loves to fall out overtime, and it is not only not sealed at all, but it's far too open to the rain/water! People always tell me the worm gear is the first thing to go but I have no issues with the worm gear over the years. Everything else has been fine with the reels. It's not normal to have to service it every time it rains is it? I tried putting oil on the anti reverse to protect it (maybe that's why it's slipping) and it doesn't protect it as too much water gets in that part of the reel. I don't see how people can leave em as the rust would build up fast - it doesn't dry inside the reel very fast. Any recommendations or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  15. Thanks for the ideas guys. I might try electric tape or glue stick.. maybe glue would be better. My friend IRL has the 11'6 version of this rod (both 4 piece spinning) and he says his casts better with braided and that its designed for braid. Havent talked to him much about it. I went back to using my old rod the past 2 days for Coho.. it's 9ft long fenwick HMX spinning rod, 2-6 lb rated, 3 grams to 20 gram lure weight, medium action. Has pretty good back bone for a light rod though, I've landed many Chum salmon up to 20lbs on it. It's 2 piece tho so It's bulky when I bicycle to the beach in the morning, and a little undergunned for the odd 6-12lb coho, or the notorious rare chinook that I could hook on the beach. I also notice the Fenwicks short cork handle is much nicer for casting lures, it's shorter.