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  1. I believe Atom went from the 1 3/4 oz that came with factory 1/0's to the 1 7/8oz (fatter profile, different taper) that came with 2/0's to the 2 1/4oz that was after my time
  2. In my opinion the weight of any factory nf does affect the sink rate but nobody is still-fishing nf on the bottom like a bait rig so why is the sink rate important to anyone? The retrieve speed to me was WAY more important, not even close to being close in importance (to me) as the "sink rate", a term I see mentioned continuously online. Despite any weight difference between models it is the shape, not the weight or sink rate, that will be the main factor in determining at what speed any factory nf can be used in under existing conditions. Different shapes react differently under identical conditions. Anyone have ANY brand sinking nf that is "fatter tail" that can be retrieved slower than ANY brand sinking "fatter head" nf despite any difference in weight under identical conditions? I've only used a handfull of brands myself but can't recall a single example. Nf were designed to present themselves in the water "tail down", a common denominator between all brands of factory sinking nf. What a tail-down position does in actuality is to increase the "footprint" of the nf exposed during retrieve allowing for increased "drag" at a much slower retrieve as it has a larger cross-section. I've never seen a single example otherwise, has anyone?
  3. Who would throw any plug with a defective Duo-Lock snap that they chose to show. - Look how small the locking snap tab is that is used to lock the snap closed. That snap belongs in the trash. Look at what you want to look at and make believe the rest doesn't matter.
  4. As long as consumers equate price with success the trend will continue.
  5. While I agree that nothing can not be stolen it is much tougher when you don't know whether there is something to steal or not. I used a Spacekap Spacetube for over 20 years. Nobody can tell if there are rods inside or not. Mine held 8 rods/reels up to 12' in length and worked flawlessly.
  6. People will always try to buy success rather than earn it. The internet and YouTube is filled with images and videos of untimed reels and plugs rigged with upside-down hooks posted by users, "guides" (cough... cough...) and "plugbuilders" alike. This is what you're buying. Ignorance is bliss, or is it? Understanding what you're doing is more important than what you're using 99.9% of the time in my opinion.
  7. I bought and used a single pair of Worth Split Ring Pliers for 35 years. They cost $1 back then, I see they are about $3 now
  8. You can graft sections together on all soft plastics that I used with a hot knife
  9. No, I never resealed a plug in my life
  10. I would use whatever "Spacecraft" or "New Horizons" uses. They are the best of the best in 5th wheels
  11. I know nothing about Ron's modifications other than what I see and read online, I've never seen or held one. I do have input on the horizontal front line tie which I never see mentioned and is not specific to Ron's lures but I'll mention it since nobody else has and this is a great example in my opinion. The horizontal line tie allows direct line of pull AT the "centerline", a vertcal front line tie places the direct line of pull ABOVE "centerline". The lower direct line of pull increases wiggle and reduces depth as compared to a vertical front line tie on a retrieve of the same speed. Just like a vertical front line tie placed BELOW centerline would again "reset" the plug's swimming cadence and retrieve speed(s) needed to maintain action. Side to side tuning can still be done but it will take an extra second of "evaluation" before the pliers come out. All my opinion. Curious as to the my "guesstimate observations" from those who have actually used them.
  12. Of the 3 identifiable (to me) "brands" I see, and I'm only working from memory. (I no longer own any) Stan Gibbs, Donny and Carlezon. I remember the Gibbs having the most radiused front (when viewed from top-down), the Donny not nearly as radiused as the Gibbs and the Carlezon almost non-radiused by comparison. The pics do seem to indicate that??? I also noticed there is a difference in wood type used, Gibbs/Pine - Donny/Basswood and Carlezon/Mahgany that the more radiused the front the shallower the swim. My question to you and others that make bottles is which "aspect", wood type OR front radius in your opinion most contributes to the depth attained and "tightness" of wiggle by each style type or do you think the lower lip profile is more critical or do you disagree that there is a major difference between the three? On a seperate note I found the very best way to preserve the lower diving lip from destruction due to "smashing into" rocks/bottom was to first allow light "feathering" to occur which opens up the wood grain "ends", thoroughly drying and then applying thin formula super glue to the open fibers. The glue will soak in and after drying is as hard as steel. A quick re-profiling with a non-aggresive hand file to remove the frazzeled end fibers and the result will last the life of the plug without any reapplication being needed.
  13. The Gibbs Wadd (Gibbs on steroids) was my concept and the result of a custom order and is in Fire River color. The color was a copy of the Fire River Bomber (which has produced fish to 50+)
  14. They are all Danny's. Funny thing about the tins, when he gave me a few I noticed the hook was on upside down. I can't be sure but yours look upside down too although it may be the pic. When he gave them to me I said "why are the hooks upside down?" His reply was "wtf do I know about tins". (Danny oriented the tin hook like a plug tail hook)
  15. Danny did pour jig heads although I've never seen the one shown.
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