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About Waydown

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  1. ccb, got the anti reverse pin, a new lever, and the clip...so good to go. Thanks.
  2. R.R. does the bail trip by turning the handle nor can it be tripped by using off hand? If only by turning the handle, you can make it to trip manually by doing this: Take out the screw that holds the bail spring and place a small washer right behind that screw and place it back....this will raise the device that holds the line roller enough to cause the spring to not function at all, just tighten the screw enough that you can manually operate the bail upon casting and close it manually for retrive. I have done this on several of my older spinners...just eliminate that spring and never have to worry about broken bail spring again. Think there is a post on the Main Forum under tricks and tweaks on how to do this.
  3. I fish the Chesapeake for fluke out of 18 foot Parker and my setup for dropping 2 oz is a 7' Finwick Med. paired with a 2500 size. Now if using over 2 oz need to up it to at least a Med. heavy in deep water. Just make the tip is sensitive to feel that bite and a Fenwick HMG is my go to rod for that.
  4. KnewBee, your post on Feb 8 the crappie you caught...what color, size, of the micro spinner bait if you don't mind me asking? Thanks.

    1. KnewBee


      Any color seems to work.  I like the white skirt, but the blue/white  or white/chartreuse mix works well.   Think it is more about the vibrating spinning spoon.   Beetle Spins are just as good and I usually troll one about two feet under a bobber and they slam em right about dark.    With the beetle spins, I will use a white or black trailer (little plastic that comes with em).  Some days they will only hit white, some days only black, think it depends on water clarity?



  5. Was about to post the ratchet in backwards...glad you figured it out.
  6. Been using Interstate reconditioned batteries for years and they are around $50-$60 I believe...year warranty....just carry your old battery in and will match it up to what you need. If you want more CCA they can get a larger one to match. Usually get 4-5 years out of them and beats paying $100 and up. There is a Interstate store near by and they sell more batteries than anyone I know. Can check your old battery and determine if bad cell, etc. Like others have said, just match up size, post, etc. and GTG.
  7. ccb, have read all the posts on here about freshwater bait casters, and decided to chim in. I am an old large mouth bass fisher, and been around baitcasters all my life. You will never find a better baitcaster than the older Lews, I have a couple that are my favorite...the BB1N and the BB1NH which I would recommend. It is practically impossible to backlash one of these reels if you try real hard LOL. Nothing about them that will not stand the test of time....all alum. frames, light, side plate looks like a piece of leather ( but is not) and made in many sizes, speeds, etc. Handles braid just as good as mono, and will cast with any of the China plastics of today. Lew Childress started this business in Alabama back in 70's I believe and believe me, nothing any better. The newer ones made today I know nothing about, only have the older ones which can still be bought on Ebay for $50 to $100 and many look new. You owe it to your self to check them out on Ebay, and if you need help in choosing one let me know, will be glad to help.
  8. Now it would take a bad coyote to turn that down, maby when he gets a good look, he would have second thoughts.
  9. I use Mineral oil (intestinal lubricant) because it is what either Daiwa or Shimano reels use. There is 2 different kinds of this oil....my son is a pharmacist and he carries this. Bottle will last you long time, I just put mine in a little 2 oz bottle with a needle valve stored in tackle bag. You can put couple drops between fingers and rub it in for several minutes and feel how slick it feels, will feel smooth all day so it must be good for a reel parts. As for lube, I tried Super Lube years ago and during very cold temps. the spinners feel real sluggish, gets tacky. Now use Penn blue grease, I figure anything been out that long must be good and seems to stay in place on gears, pinion, heave bearing.
  10. You have schematic of the reel....got to have the stack in according to it for drag to work properly. If no schematic google Mike's Reel Repair...fishing reel schematics....will probably have it. Something simple sounds like and easy to get stacks off when you taking apart.
  11. You got the drag to loose sounds like could be problem....tighten it down and try it. Fact, the spool will not spin at all if drag not tighten down properly.
  12. Late on this one, chances are the the anti-reverse only need a good cleaning and like fishhappy has stated, make sure you take pictures of everything before you take it apart, and place everything on a work bench, table, have a good light, a good towel to lay the parts on so they do not all of a sudden disappear never to be seen again.....and make sure everything is spotless when putting back together.....it will work good as new if nothing is damaged.
  13. Believe it time to come on out, going to be too old to enjoy it before too long.....besides John, I mean Mary came out.
  14. Caught a 50" red drum on my 200 few years back, 17 lb. mono and no telling how many long runs he made and drag worked like a champ. Fact, after that trip broke it down and the drag looked like new...it is one tough reel and capable of landing fish much larger than you fish them for.
  15. Spinning reel with a broke bail spring...just remove the screw on the rotor holding the spring in place, take a small plastic washer place over the spring and tighten screw back down and you can open the bail/close the bail with off hand. Also, can remove the spring if you like...place piece of rubber tubing into slot where spring fits...tighten down works just like the spring if worked by hand opening and closing. If the newer reels of today with the spring system where you can snap closed or manually close with hand, this will work also just cannot snap close by turning the rotor, have to manually close which is way suppose to be done. I grease the washer or rubber tube and tighten just enough to make it close with little effort. Have a new "spring" that will last forever, never break. This works reel well with the older spinners...can eliminate that annoying snap closing the bail. If using rubber tubing, just have to experiment with getting right height and I like to use something with some thickness, not too soft rubber.