Tom Kirkman

BST Users
  • Content count

    335
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Tom Kirkman

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Converted

  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    fishing, skiing, flying
  • What I do for a living:
    Editor/RodMaker Magazine
  1. The system is still in place and has both a photographic and %clear standard behind it. This means that the buyer knows what he is buying from the dealer. The public bought in, for sure. It was the dealers that didn't want to use it. The problem is that dealers don't want the buyer to be able to hold them accountable for cork quality. They would rather tell you something is "flor" "AAA" or whatever, knowing that there is no standard behind any of those terms, so whatever they send you is "correct" per the standard they stated. Conversely, if I guy orders CG1 grade cork, he has a photo and percent clear standard to go by and the dealer cannot worm his way out of anything. We know what constitutes CG1, 2 and 3 - it is photographed and spelled out, but nobody knows what constitutes Flor, AAA, Super, etc. grade cork rings. Those are just whatever the dealer decides they are.
  2. Not necessarily. There is no standard for what constitutes "top flor" nor any other of these type grades. They are whatever the dealer says they are. Flor may be pitted and holed, or completely free of any blemish, and in both cases the "grade" will be correct.
  3. I'm not sure how pouring out epoxy into cups and weighing them could possibly be easier or quicker than just drawing up similar portions into syringes. However, I won't second guess the OP as to what works better for him. However, you'll note that the epoxy thread finish manufacturers/suppliers state to measure equal portions by volume. Following the manufacturer's instructions can often be a wonderful thing. Measure at least 3ccs of each part to allow for some bare margin of error and it's hard to go wrong.
  4. Wraps never make a rod stiffer. They add weight and result in a rod that feels softer and reacts more slowly. How much so depends on how much thread length we're talking about. On a very stout rod blank you may hardly notice. On a less powerful one you may easily feel it.
  5. Action is where the rod initially flexes. All rods will eventually flex towards and into the butt area if you apply enough load to them. Sensitivity is mostly a matter of stiffness to weight ratio. Be careful about simply stiffening a portion of the blank as failure can occur. It is possible to create a stress point at the junction where the original rod remains and the stiffened portion begins.
  6. Klass Koat is the same product, and the original. It was manufactured in TN I believe. It is an epoxy "paint" although many have used it for a thread wrap coating. A google search will turn up the manufacturer. They sell direct to the consumer.
  7. 27X is neither inches nor centimeters. It is just 27 "times" the spool diameter. If you measured the spool in inches, then the result will be in inches. If you measured it in centimeters, then the result will be in centimeters. .................
  8. There were about a half dozen of the older Clemens bed pieces for sale at the Expo last year. They're still out and about every now and then. Just keep asking on the forums and something will turn up.
  9. No - it's wider so some of the original bases won't slide onto the newer track.
  10. When Andy had his last run of bed extensions made they fashioned new dies which are about 2mm wider than his originals so the current standard Renzetti bed will not fit the older Clemens models.
  11. Lifetime warranty against what? Breakage or defects? These are not necessarily the same thing.
  12. Well if there's one thing this industry needs, it's another thread brand. Sometime for kicks, go on some of the various forums and search back deeply for comments on Gudebrod thread. You'll find that builders complained about Gudebrod quality, color, etc., just as much as they do any brand these days. Some products seem to take on legendary status - after they're gone. I wonder how many long time builders like me can remember the dreaded "Gudebrod Knot" that they used to join short pieces on the spool, thumping through the thread tensioner as you were tying off a decorative wrap, or half way through a weave background.
  13. Trondak U-40 formulates and concocts their own epoxy and adhesive products. BD Classic Enterprises does some of the same. All other rod building epoxies are products that are sourced and either private labeled, or simply relabeled, and then sold under another name. In one instance the product is made to spec for a large epoxy finish supplier. In all others these are simply off-the-shelf standard products. Like thread, about 4 epoxy manufacturers account for every thread finish epoxy on the market today.
  14. I wonder how many people are aware, that of all the various thread "brands" mentioned here in this thread, there are actually only 4. The rest are repackaged from the original, or obtained from the same source as another relabeler. Odd to see differing opinions given on different "brands" when in fact many are the same thread with different labels on the spools.
  15. And to think I've gone 40 years without a drying motor for my custom rods and never noticed that my finish wasn't perfect. Seriously, you will likely get a better finish job without a motor. Hand turning can't be beat for results. But it requires you to babysit the rod for a couple or three hours. Hand turning allows you to manipulate the finish, even having it a little thicker on top of the guide feet, but that's a technique for another day. A drying motor simply makes the task easier. But as has been said you still need to check in on the rod every now and again to ensure the motor is turning, the chuck hasn't slipped, a fly hasn't landed on the guide wraps, etc. So it's nice to have, but not an absolute necessity.