buddha162

BST Users
  • Content count

    2,159
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

About buddha162

  • Rank
    1,000 Post Club!

Converted

  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    9-ball, cooking

Recent Profile Visitors

3,258 profile views
  1. I should probably get that done before the season starts. The drum cable sheathing is cracked in several places, from what I read here it's a sign that things are about to go south.
  2. Might be a slight exaggeration, but there hasn't been a trip I didn't want reverse in my kayak. I do need to figure out an anchor trolley system for my kayak...
  3. Ship, are you suggesting submerging the reel in a tub of fresh water? I generally run a gentle stream of tapwater over every inch of my low profiles after use in salt (drag locked down), then vigorously shake out the water with spool/sideplate taken off and air dry...but I am all ears for better methods. I know many people say just wipe down the exterior of the reel, but I know saltwater has worked in past the thumbar and in many cases the spool shaft.
  4. I like their odd sizes too, 7lb is great for almost all finesse bass fishing... Have you used the heavier FC sniper? How do you rate its abrasion resistance compared to say, seaguar blue/STS leader material?
  5. I'd estimate I spend 50% of a togging trip circling back to a rock lol...
  6. It's like taking one aspect of LMB fishing into the salt (bottom contact)... 70ft in the ocean, sure...different game. But 10-25ft in the bays, perfectly analogous!
  7. I know the surf halibut guys swear by the LC flash minnow, but aren't you fishing mostly shallow beaches over there? I've been playing around with different plugs for fluke...but casting into 12+ft with a 3' diver for flatfish seems counter-intuitive...do they come up and smash it mid water column? The freshwater flash minnows dive 3' max!
  8. Not to mention the constant engaging/disengaging when deep jigging, esp on a drift just to hold bottom. I've heard from a few people who switched to big low-pros for deep jigging, and walked away after a couple of seasons bc of clutch issues.
  9. Fair enough, and to limit my thoughts on the MH darkmatter rod: that 4oz upper rating is for the birds. I know the Nexus/BH and other "jigging" rods rate for vertically dropping baits, but the Darkmatter is set up as a caster, and there is no way I'm loading that rod over 1.5oz on a cast. And back to my digression...for bay fluking off a yak, I like freshwater bass rods. We're talking about fish that averages 2-3lbs, using jig ranges from 1/4 - 3/4oz...to me it's perfectly analogous to LMB tackle. The tradeoff is obviously lifting power/versatility, as Elias has shown in multiple videos.
  10. I briefly checked out Elias' darkmatter rod after a trip...it was surprisingly slow in taper, very bouncy tip section. Not my choice for crisp snap-jigging, but probably a lot tougher than the fast/x-fast rods I prefer for fluking.
  11. 7.1:1, 12/180.
  12. I use the same STS from 4 - 30lbs, good stuff and cheap! I did buy a spool of Sunline FC Sniper 7lb and use it as leader material...lots of people like that line, it's slightly more supple than STS. But then again, STS is leader material vs mainline for FC Sniper, so I would imagine the tradeoff is better abrasion resistance. Scooby recommended I think P-Line Halo, but I have so much STS sitting around never got to it. Personally I think if you're only using it as leader material, ie no concerns about memory or casting behavior off the spool...you can use anything (except berkley vanish, JFC that line gave me nightmares). Never targeted pickerel, but if I were to...with just the stuff I have on hand, I would tie a 4" 20lb floro bite leader to your line. I've used single strand titanium wire before for bluefish...those come in very light tests and you can actually tie certain connection knots with it...but probably overkill for pickerel. Though if you're using any $$$ lures, something to consider lol.
  13. LOL that's why I don't bother with FG in lighter floro...it's a fool's game...completely unnecessary for anything under 10lbs.
  14. Braid to leader for everything...the only time you need mono (and just leader mono, never a full spool) is when fishing topwater treble hook baits, bc floro sinks and straight braid will get tangled up in the front trebles. I've been using the Shin Fukae knot (there's a video on YT) to join lighter leaders to braid (4 - 12lbs). It's basically a half alberto knot, where you only wrap down and not up...it's slightly slimmer and imo just as strong and easier to tie correctly than the traditional alberto. It also casts through guides all day w/o issue. For length, generally you want the connection knot between the reel and the first guide, and a couple feet hanging off your rod tip to the lure...roughly 7-9 ft. That gives you plenty of room to retie, and there's enough distance from your braid to lure that it shouldn't spook fish for most applications. 2-6lb for trout, 6-8lb for most finesse spinning stuff for bass: dropshot, ned rig, tiny jigs/shaky heads, finesse jerkbaits etc.
  15. If your budget is in the 2-300 range, check out the JDM suzuki rods. My personal favorite: Shimano Dialuna 96m. Rod weighs 4.8oz, and it's designed to do what you want to do...med-fast taper, not a noodle.